I use the race face, well protected from the elements in the spindle, seems to be holding a charge well. Even though i calibrate/zero offset every ride the value doesn’t really change. Power seems to align really well with my stages since certain power outputs match hr on a few pavement segments done on both bikes.
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I just bought the Quarq XX1 PM for my MTB… I did have to sell one of my kids to afford it though 
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I like the PowerTap hub on my MTB. The Vector 2 pedals on my road bike indicate that I don’t have to worry about left versus right power differences.
I’m still using my Cinch on my Tallboy but I recently purchased a Quarq for my Spark. I’m happy with the Quarq but I would say it reads a bit higher than my Tacx Neo and Cinch meters which seem to be aligned pretty well. This is a bit annoying for the analysis of multiple data sets and I’m having some buyers remorse currently.
I have a Power2max NGeco spider on my SRAM DUB boost crankset. It has worked perfectly.
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“I have a Power2max NGeco spider on my SRAM DUB boost crankset. It has worked perfectly.“
Same exact setup on my MTB. Was really easy to install and has worked great.
I wonder if your Quarq needs to be calibrated? (not just the zero offset done with Garmin or Bolt, but a full calibration) Usually Quarq’s are very accurate and mine read very close with Tacx Neo.
I’m going to purchase the adaptor to put my mtb on the tacx and get some actual data. Right now I am purely going off RPE. Can you point me to some literature that details a “full calibration” as you describe? I’ve looked through the manual and I see a head-unit-based calibration and the backpedal calibration. See pages 11 and 12:
https://www.quarq.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/95-6118-017-000_Rev_A_Quarq_Power_Meter_User_Manual.pdf
Power2Max… actually their boost version is about $30 cheaper than their 142mm…
Omg thanks for explaining the spikes. At first I was proud of my peak power but then I realized the spike was on a descent.
That said, it doesn’t bother me. The Gen 3 Stages unit is great. I would get one again…but I did get a discounted new unit ($300) on ebay because it was scratched at a bike store on a display bike. No way I’d pay almost $600 for a new unit.
I’m thinking of the process shown in this video where weights are used:
However probably best to call Quarq tech support and see what they suggest.
My Quarq reads about 5w higher than my P2M which is close enough for me. I do all my testing and training on the Quarq and the racing on the P2M.
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I have a stages V3 1 sided on my gravel bike and have just ordered one for my Tallboy to use at The Whiskey 50 for pacing on the gnarly long climb. Stages V1 and V2 seem to be the ones that had the issues. I thought about the race face / easton spindle but read a few to many reports of dropouts and battery issues. I guess you can find those reports on any power meter if you comb the reviews long enough. If you don’t mind the spikes that come from 1 sided units (any 1 sided unit) I think the Stages are actually great. My road bike has a 2 sided Pioneer and I don’t feel that it’s helping me any more than the Stages is. Just up your smoothing for use on Gravel and MTB and you will be fine. Heck, if it’s good enough for Jonathan it is more than fine for me.
My P2M reads about 5-ish watts below my Powertaps P1 pedals around 300w, 7 @ 500W and 2-3 around 200W. I have the NGEco - 2 of them actually. The second is waiting for my Orbea Oiz TR 
I really think that if you shop around, look at reviews (especially DCRainmaker), you’ll go with the NGEco unless price is no consideration. It isn’t difficult to swap between bikes, takes about 10min to get off and another 10min to put on the next (though it’s not a pedal based system either). The only disadvantage is that the battery is a little hard to find, but this is easily solved by ordering 2 or 3 off Amazon (the battery last some hundreds of hours too… so it’s something you change once or twice a year unless the MTB is your only bike).
Has anyone tried a Power 2 Max spider on a eeWings crank yet? Seems like the SRAM version would work?
My 4iiii ss on xtr crank has been excellent so far. No issues, very easy to use. I chose the 4iiii as it can be upgraded to a L/R which I may do this winter by sending in the drive side as long as it all continues to go well. Others may be able to be upgraded as well.
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I will be making the change to EEWings soon and have chosen to not use a PM at all , but rather just use a cadence sensor for my MTB.
I also have the Power2Max Boost power meter and could not be happier with it.
From their website:
Compatible with SRAM 3-Bolt Direct Mount Chainring Interface
Hi guys I’m looking at getting a power meter so this thread is great. I’ve got xt8000 group set can I use a 4iiii single side ultegra 6800 crank as it’s about £180 cheaper?