Quarq power meter on MTB

Im looking for a power meter for my MTB. I currently have a 2019 Santa Cruz Blurr With a 1x12 Sram drive train. I have been reviewing power meters and like what i see with quarq but i dont see much info on there use on MTB. Looking for some advise on what to get what ill need and how to install it. Any advise would help

Not a direct answer, but lot of existing information that may include some helpful info.

Using a Cinch myself. I had one battery failure, but it was covered under warranty. The process was too slow but they did eventually replace it. I like the modular crank system of the cinch cranks in general, and the replacement has been good so far. I got it because of the good luck I had with the Cinch I’ve been running with zero issues on my road bike. Not a lot of talk about the system in this forum and TR still doesn’t support calibration directly (not a huge deal, the Cinch app is fine), but thought I’d share my mostly positive experience.

I’m also riding a Blur. :+1:

Quarq is probably the most popular MTB power meter out there, and is regarded as a super accurate PM. DCRainmaker will be doing a review soon, whenever they are available. Swapping cranks is easy, you just need a few allen keys, to remove the non-drive side crank arm, and to install your new chainring.

If you are looking at Quarqs, make sure that your current crankset is compatible or you may have to buy new cranks as well. I believe all Quarqs now use the 8 bolt mounting but a lot of Sram’s cranks are sold with the traditional 3 bolt direct mount. This may be wrong, I don’t know if some Sram cranks are now sold as “Quarq ready” or anything.

If you do have the 3 bolt mounting and want a spider based power meter then I would suggest looking at the Power2Max NG Ecos. I haven’t had any issues in the 9 months of using mine and it’s been through mud and flooded trails and snow.

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Quarq only has the Eagle XX1 option:
https://www.sram.com/en/quarq/models/pm-dz-spdm-d1

Like others have said, you would need 8 bolt cranks to mount it so potentially need to upgrade depending on what model you have currently:
https://www.sram.com/en/quarq/models/fc-xx1-assy-c2

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Second this. I also like the coin cell over the recharging of the NG. LIPO won’t last so the shelf life is about 2-5 years before you need a new PM. I have NG eco and NG on different bikes. NG eco should last until the electronics fail.

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i use one. i’m very happy with it. i transferred it from one bike to the next (bb30 to dub) so that cost me an extra xx1 crankset to be compatible (attached quark drive side to the dub cynlinder and left crank) but that was ultimately cheaper than a new quark

also, bought mine used, had a problme with it’s battery usage. SRAM took care of me no questions asked.
Works like a charm. battery life is now very good. Pretty confident with the data it provides.

I added a Quarq spider pm to my 2020 Santa Cruz Hightower. I had the XO1 build so my local shop swapped out the cranks to XX1. I’m pretty happy. I have the Quarq spider pm on my gravel bike also. Surprised at how different my numbers are. MB lots of high power (for an old guy) spikes. On gravel more sustained power numbers.

Do you think those power differences are because of the two different units or because of the nature of MTB vs Gravel? I would imagine that hard pedal strokes on MTB to get over roots and such would not exist on a gravel ride. Do you still get spikes if you ride your MTB on a gravel road? If so then I’d imagine that’s not normal.

I’ve been running Quarq PM’s on my MTB for years and they’ve never missed a beat. Supper reliable data across all terrain with no power spikes.

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I think it’s the difference in riding requirements. I knew that was the case with my riding buddies. Some of them kick my butt when short high power outputs are required. I kick theirs when it’s more sweet spot riding for longer periods. I feel both are accurate to each other but haven’t done any kind of scientific test cause that would require too many beers to figure out how to do.

Gotcha. I just wasn’t sure if you were saying that you experienced 3000W power spikes with one of your Quarqs or just that the power profile was ‘spikier’.

Quarq XX1 Dub user for over a year on my MTB. Works great and I have no complaints.

I just dont know enough about the mechanics of the what i have vs what i need from quarq i know i have a 1x12 SRAM GX I thought any of the SRAM parts were compatible with each other

Yes and no. You can mix and match Eagle parts but the Quarq spider only fits on the XX1 cranks which you can use with any derailer and cassette from NX to XX1 to the best of my knowledge.

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When you look at the inside of your drive side crank arms where the chainring mounts to the cranks, do you see 3 bolts or 8 smaller bolts? From what I understand all new quarqs use the 8 bolt mounting but some (Don’t know which off the top of my head) sram crank arms use a more traditional 3 bolt pattern.

I’ve got a 2019 SC Blur as well and have the P2M NGeco. Works great, no complaints. I’ve had quarq in the past on my road bike and I don’t see any appreciable difference. I would just second that you check the bolt pattern (the Truvativ crank that came on mine was 3 bolt)

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I just purchased the Quarq AXS XX1 PM for my race-bike and I have to say… I’m not overwhelmed with joy. I find it reading very low when doing anaerobic efforts in the woods compared to Stages. However doing sustained efforts on gravel or even terrain it seems accurate. Need to investigate more.

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I am looking for power for the mtb as well. Checking out these new pedals from SRM so I can swap mtb to gravel bike easily. On back order at the moment but SRM is a solid brand just $$$.