After a couple years of owning mine, I think I have charged mine maybe 3-4 times total. At least once was when I was troubleshooting the sleeping issue.
At least it is easy to charge. I just used battery pack when I charged mine, the battery is pretty small.
Just wondering if anyone has had issues with a Rotor Inpower and hoping for some ideas. I’ve had mine on for a few rides now but felt like it was reading a bit low compared to my Kickr and Stages on the cross bike, so thought I’d check the firmware. I downloaded the software and the latest firmware, got it connected via Ant+ (Garmin express is not running), got it right next to the laptop, but it wouldn’t load the firmware (just stopped part way through). There is a firmware upgrade log that shows it made 5 attempts and aborted (on the 9th of October).
After that, the light was continuously flashing and when I rode next (a few days ago) the Garmin said it connected but wouldn’t calibrate, and there was no reading. I tried a new battery but that didn’t change anything. After that I tried connecting to the software again and it connected but wouldn’t do anything else - no battery reading, and any time I tried anything like calibrating it just went in to ‘not responding’ mode.
I did another hard reset of the power meter and uninstalled and reinstalled the software and the same thing happened. It’s still flashing, still connects to the firmware and Garmin, but basically times out with anything else. It’s like it’s permanently in pairing mode or something. And no matter how many times I tried, I couldn’t get the firmware to do anything - last time I downloaded it from the website and tried I got a message saying the current firmware was newer than the one off the website. There doesn’t seem to be a way to check the current firmware.
I’ll try contacting them, but find support often spend half a dozen emails getting you to do what you’ve already done (from trouble shooting on the website) even when you tell them everything you’ve done, so hoping for ideas here.
Starting to spec out a dream XC marathon build, and am pondering Power Meters. I currently have a power2max on my cx bike, and like it a lot. Obviously the first thought that comes to mind is how many times I have smashed my chainrings on rocks, but I also hit cranks and pedals. Starting to think that the best solution would be a spider based power meter and a bash guard?
Wolf tooth makes a nice iscg 05 bash guard that comes in at 69 grams with titanium hardware. https://absoluteblack.cc/oval-bashguide-iscg05/
Anyone have other power meter setups that have proven to be reliable for dirt? Any input would be welcome! Currently looking at bikes I can get through my shop, so the Ibis Exie is at the top of the list.
Still happy with my Quarq XX1 three years later and I’ve beaten the hell out of it. Pricy but I highly recommend.
Same here, 2yrs going strong and never an issue with it.
I just got my first ever mtb and it is a Epic Evo that I was lucky to get. Have 4iiii left crank on my Tarmac for years and just works.
Thought about doing the same with this bike and would have to send in my crank as it is sram. After riding a few times I am not sure how useful power would be for me vs my road. Does anyone else feel the same?
Absolutely love the Sigeyi on my Pivot Les, would definitely recommend. Gets a good review with GPLama as well.
My main thought for wanting a PM on the mtb is for pacing long gravel climbs in endurance events. Besides that I’m not sure how useful it would be
Nice on the Epic Evo, I was lucky as well getting the size/model when i bought mine back in Sept. So far happy with it with an upgrade here and there!
+1 on the Sigeyi PM, saw GPLama’s review and bit the bullet. No complaints so far but like some I’m using the PM just to pace myself for the long climbs. I’ve dabbled in some smaller XC winter races, but not useful yet as I have the winter weight to lose and build my base fitness back up.
Quarq, it does exactly what it says on the tin.
Is there any difference between the power you are pedaling on the trainer than on the mtb ( with power meter). Reading some stuff that there is a 20% difference between the power you put on a race bike vs MTB
Thx
Smashed the battery cap on my Quarq, it bent slightly but survived.
Smashed the battery cap on my P2M NGeco, repair was pretty expensive so chose to pay and have it replaced by a P2M NG, havent smashed that battery cap yet, it is also flatter.
P2M has more clearance vs frame, could be of interest if you are considering frame with BB92.
I don’t bother with a power meter on the trainer, I just use the trainer meter.
However I’m about 5% higher outside on my bike with a power meter. I put that down to measuring at the crank on my bike rather than at the hub on the trainer which will include a few watts of drivetrain losses.
That seems more specific to your trainer/power meter combo than a MTB vs trainer/road bike thing.
+1 to Kevin’s comment about pacing and post ride analysis.
And also +1(+2 or 3) to the Sigeyi. I’ve got two and they’ve been flawless.
I’d be careful going with a 4iii in terms of clearance. i.e. make absolutely certain the doofer will clear the chainstay before you spend the money. I made the mistake twice (well one and a half times) before going Sigeyi.
So I can use the powerzones based on the training that I do in TR?
Thx
As long as your power meters are reading close to the same.
I use a left arm Stages which hasn’t missed a beat. Having said that I can definitely hold higher power for longer riding gravel roads on the MTB than I can a trainer on erg mode (which seems to grind me into the metaphorical dirt). Certainly not 20% different but significantly so.
From a usefulness perspective, definitely in doing outside workouts on gravel roads, but I also use it to keep an eye on IF for marathon races and I watch it on those punchy climbs to make sure I’m not exploding whole boxes of matches to help with pacing
I put a P2M NGeco on my FS trail bike last month and it’s working great so far just like the one I’ve had on my road bike for the last 2 years.