You’re right, I was wrong, these are relabelled Force eTap AXS cranks. I mistook the angled bit for a reflection.
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I also just broke one of my Di2 paddles (right side, downshift). Did you find anything regarding servicing (other than replacement of the entire shifter?
Running a 1x setup so fortunately have redundancy on the other side (I’ve set up the shifters the same way)
I don’t know about paddles, for me it was the front plate. Not replacable anymore.
So I’m tempted to swap out my Di2 GRX 11-speed group for Di2 Ultegra R8170. Everything would be swapped out except for the crankset/chainrings. I’ve been running SRAM 11-speed Red cranks/chainrings with a Quarq with the GRX set up and it’s been working well, so I don’t want to change it out.
Apologies if it’s been discussed already - does anyone know if I can use an 11-speed chain or 12-speed chain with the 12 speed cassette and 11 speed chainrings?
At least chainline wise, the R9200/R8100 44.5mm chainline doesn’t seem too far off from the 45.5mm from the SRAM set up.
12 speed chain for the cassette.
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Shimano is expected to release 12-speed GRX groupset(s) soon, maybe it is better to wait a little?
I don’t think that’s compatible, the 12-speed cassette needs a 12-speed chain.
Yes, I currently use an 11 spd DA crank with my 12 spd Ultegra Di2 drivetrain…no issues.
(Worth noting however that I live in the Chicago area and I have to use my FD about 5 times a year 
)
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Rotor chainrings are also a-ok with Shimano 12sp.
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I need to shorten my disc brake hoses when stem is lowered.
Anyone have recommendations for a bleed kit?
Shimano has this one: Professional disc brake bleed kit | SHIMANO BIKE-US
Others on Amazon such as Bleed Zone include mineral oil and are “Shimano road group compatible”.
I don’t need a kit to handle multiple brands as I only have Shimano gear.
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worth the cost imo
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I got this one recently to do exactly the same thing on my Ultegra 8100:
It definitely came with the ‘adapter’ that goes between the cup and the reservoir port on top of the shifter. The only other things I bought were a set of Shimano brake hose vice blocks to help with cutting as well as setting the barb:
Amazon.com : SHIMANO Tubing Vise Blocks, TL-BH61 pr : Bike Repair Tools : Sports & Outdoors
And new genuine Shimano brake hose barbs and olives for each line I had to shorten:
Amazon.com : SHIMANO SM-BH90 Olive and Connecting Insert : Bike Brake Hoses : Sports & Outdoors
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Also found this BleedZone kit with less oil and a basic syringe.
Amazon.com : RSN Sports Bleed Kit for Shimano Hydraulic Road/Gravel Brakes with 60ml Mineral Oil : Sports & Outdoors
Benefits of the Shimano kit are hose clamp and metal tip which apparently locks into the fitting, cup collars to avoid spills, plus assorted blocks but I only need one that fits DA brakes.
Is this the basic procedure?
- remove bar tape
- peel back hoods
- steps required to shorten hoses and lower stem
- bleed as necessary
- retape
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Yup! That the long and the short of it.
You’ll have trim at least enough hose to remove the old barb. Then place on the nut, then the olive, then set the barb. Seat the hose into the shifter, then slide the olive up to shifter, then hand-start the nut, before tightening it down.
Follow any of the brake bleed tutorial - I quite liked GC Performance’s on YouTube - and rewrap the bars.
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This is probably obvious too…but be super careful when screwing in the nut. If it doesn’t thread in easily…don’t even think about forcing it!
Ask me how I know! I broke a shifter doing this, during Covid no less, so I literally had to buy a new bike because the parts were unavailable and there was an important event coming up. 
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Should thread on EASILY by hand, and then offer some consistent resistance as the olive crushes, before fully seating.
If you convert from 2x to 1x crankset and remove the FD, do you need to install a dummy plug into the seatpost battery for Di2 to operate correctly?
No, but my gravel bike has accumulated so much dirt in the seatpost I would drop by my local bike shop to get one.
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It depends :).
If your FD is connected to the middle port, then yes. There must always be something in that port. Either a wire or a dummy plug will do.
If the FD is not connected to the middle port, then it’s up to you. Like @KevinKlaes says though, I’d definitely use one.
(hah, just noticed that you posted this more than a month ago… oops :))
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Is anyone running 1x on these groupsets with a NW chainring? Does the rear derailleur maintain enough tension to prevent chaindrops?
I am considering switching from SRAM 22 mech groupsets to Di2 on my bikes, and just not sure how i will go without clutched derailleurs on the 1x bikes
GC Performance on Youtube did a recent video where he paired an Alugear 1x chainring (on 12 speed 105 cranks) with a 105 di2 rear mech. Said it’s pretty solid. Likewise there are several comments of others who have done the same and claim it works well.
I’m looking at a 1x 105 di2 build using their new 11-36 cassette - just waiting a tad longer to see if Shimano releases GRX 12, in which case I’ll likely choose a GRX crank with Shimano 1x12 chainring, rather than go aftermarket ring on the 105 crank.
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