If you have to buy new bridge devices, you might just consider a few new devices. I’m a fan of the Wahoo sensors which do Bluetooth and Ant+.
One cadence RPM is all you need. You can tuck it in your shoe or sock, I also like the chest strap Tickr heart rate monitor, which you can also share. (Buy a second strap if you don’t want to share the strap).
Both sensors and your Snap will pair to TR on the iPad, iPhone or MacBook using Bluetooth. If you are sharing them, then the configuration is the same. Just swap bikes, put the cadence sensor in your sock, and don the HR monitor and open TR on your iPad. Log in to your account. All the sensors will connect under “devices”. This should be automatic after the first connection.
For consistent data you will need to inflate your rear tire to the same psi every ride (90-100psi), and tension the roller consistently each time (2-3 full turns once touching the tire). Consistency is key to correct power and resistance.
For maximum consistency you probably need to warm up the trainer for 10 minutes and do a spindown in Trainer Road each time you ride. Click on “Devices”, then select your Snap trainer, then the settings wheel in the top right corner of the box, then select “spindown” or calibration. Rev the unit up to 38kmph (use your large ring and a medium or hard hear as needed). Once compete you are good to go.
If you are less concerned about absolute accuracy and consistency, do a spindown once a week, and if the trainer does not feel right (too easy or too hard) then do a spindown as needed.
To get started with Trainer Road, you need to do an FTP test (ramp test preferred) in order to establish your training start level which will scale the workouts. You can pick a base build (or whatever) plan and your first workout will be an FTP test. DO NOT skip this step. After your FTP test, do a few workouts and gauge how hard they feel. You can adjust your FTP up or down if you like, but most programs start out moderately hard and get harder so try not to overestimate your ability.
When you are riding in erg mode, the trainer handles the resistance for intervals. Gearing does not really matter to the erg trainer. When riding, strive for a moderate cadence at all times with 85-100 during efforts. (I usually never drop below 70) and you should use a gear that is close to what you ride outside so that you mirror your riding style. So you want to find a gear combination that allows you to maintain good cadence. When you find a gear that is harder to keep at higher cadence, shift up to an easier gear to get a higher cadence. Harder gearing will also have more wheel speed (more momentum) so that when you drop power and cadence, erg mode does not stop you cold
When your cadence drops, the erg trainer will apply MORE resistance to match the target. So if you’re slowing down as you get tired, the resistance can suddenly seem HUGE and as you slow down even more, the resistance goes even higher. (This is the Wahoo Spiral of Death).
Also note that it IS possible to overpower the ERG brake on some machines if you are riding in hard gears. If you find the machine can’t give you enough resistance, switch to an easier gear (small front ring) which will slow down the rear wheel, and see if the trainer can provide enough resistance. (It can)
This will become natural and make sense as you ride more.
- Consistent tire pressure
- Consistent roller tension
- Spindown Regularly
- FTP test.
- Mid-high gearing
- Strive for good cadence 85+
- 60+ cadence in recovery
Hope this helps.