I’ve never trained with those values (used my old trainer), hence wondering what’s best to use now. By the sounds of it I probably shouldn’t have wasted my money on a single sided, but 2 sided for my trainer bike isn’t an option, and I don’t ride SPD due to a previous injury, so pedal options are limited.
No, but if your racing/riding outside alot you’ll have that consistency.
I’ve never had a PM on my outside bike, so not really a concern.
I’d love a set of pedal PMs, but I’d have to bodge something with the Assiomas or buy the ludicrously overpriced SRM X Power Flats.
If you’re not using power outside, i’d just use your jetblack and stop worrying about it too much, as long as the jetblack is consistent with itself giving accurate power and resistance you’ll have accurate training.
As others have said left sided only power is gonna be wildly different.
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Tried a session using resistance instead of ERG tonight. Same vibration issues, going to request a replacement on Monday.
I’ll add more woes to my experience. I’ve been having issues getting any power readings on Zwift. The trainer will connect to Zwift, it’ll show up as the power source, the resistance source, and it will actually still read cadence. But I’ll get 0 for power. So I can feel resistance in the pedals. It will show my cadence. But the power is stuck at 0. I’ve tried disconnecting and reconnecting the trainer, I’ve tried restarting Zwift, I’ve unplugged the trainer from power. And still it’s like a 50/50 shot I’ll get a power reading.
Add to this I’m still having accuracy issues. But it varies day to day. I started dual recording my Assioma pedals with my Garmin. Some days the JB is -10W, some days it’s -2W. Yesterday it was +1W. If it was consistent I wouldn’t be as annoyed but if it’s going to randomly have a 10W swing day to day, that’s really an issue.
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That has got to be annoying as hell.
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Tell me about it. What I’ve been doing for the accuracy part is load up Zwift with the trainer (and hope it connects). Then I’ll use my Garmin connected to my pedals. I’ll load up the workout on Zwift and when I get to the intervals, I’ll just adjust the intensity on Zwift so that my Assiomas are hitting the targets. I use the Garmin file as the main workout file for TR and TP analysis.
I sent an email to JB with my problems. I still can’t get wifi connected which they said would be a firmware update but I haven’t received it. I really want to like this trainer but it’s had more issues than any other trainer I’ve owned.
Becoming more and more relieved that I canceled my pre-order.
There’s a solution for this which might help. It involves deleting your saved devices from your zwift folders. Resetting Your Game Preferences
This solved my connectivity issues for the zwift click, for example.
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Replacement unit now being arranged. Hopefully wont be long, though at least I’m still able to use mine (not had any dropouts etc, just the vibration).
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I decided not to risk it and cancelled my order and bought a Wahoo Kickr V6.
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Did JB acknowledge any issues with other units or just treat your replacement as a one-off?
Where do you cancel the order? I replied to my order email but I’ve not heard anything yet, although that was only last week
supportusa@jetblackcycling.com
Just email them. It took a few days for a response. I guess this is for USA customers only. It was in the delayed shipping email notice
They said specifically they were aware of others with the same problems.
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That’s very honest of them… they do seem like a good company.
I hope these issues don’t hit them or their customers too hard.
They potentially have a fantastic product here that is all the trainer anyone really needs… but it needs to work.
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I know people have said that you can’t really compare a left only crank PM to the power reading on the trainer… but these trainer figures seem dubious in that they always start a ton higher than the crank in the vo2max effort, but then come closer after 45 secs ish.
There’s no way that on every interval I’m suddenly putting in a bunch more effort with my left leg x seconds in. I think it’s far more likely that the trainer is heating up each time and it’s changing the power reading.
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I’m assuming that’s in erg mode?
It would be interesting if a similar thing happens in standard mode.
I think part of what you are seeing there is the “ERG mode power smoothing” similar to kickr devices where the power reported is actually the power setpoint not a measurement.
On kickr you can turn this off so that even in ERG mode the reported power is real - not so on the victory I don’t think.
So the only way to get it to show the measured power is to not be in ERG mode at all.
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Yeah, that’s ERG. I could try and do a session on level / resistance but the last time I did one the power number fluctuated so much I was struggling to keep my focus.
I recall there being a smoothing option in TR, but I can’t remember where it is.