Anyone else using TrainerRoad with their eRollers from InsideRide? I’m using my smart rollers in ERG mode. There is no calibration setup for this type of smart trainer.
I’m new to TrainerRoad, so getting a feel for the system. I’ve only done a few practice rides and a Ramp test, and noticed that when my workout gets loaded to Strava my speed and distance are far lower than I would expect.
For example, today I completed a 45 minute ride. 173W and having put nearly 8K miles on real road miles via Strava, I have a pretty good idea that at the heart rate I was going, plus cadence and my wattage, I typically average around 17-19 MPH on my rides.
My ride today said I averaged 11.5mph, and only 8.62 miles ridden.
Now I know that folks are less concerned with miles and speed with this training program, but when I see other friends using TrainerRoad and uploading their rides to Strava, their average speed and total distance seems to be more in line with what they would expect in a real world ride.
I will work on this more, but part one is to read this article.
In short, Speed & Distance on a trainer, especially when using ERG mode, are highly variable and can lead to very unrealistic values.
Gearing used on the bike is key, along with the wheel size entered in the TR app.
Thanks, I know speed and distance likely aren’t going to be accurate in ERG mode on smart rollers. Just wish they were so my ‘approximate’ mileage tracked annually were more accurate. Thanks!
Well, you can consider using a supplemental application like Zwift, RGT Cycling, Rouvy, etc. that take your power, coupled with a profile you create (including weight & height usually) that calculate your relative speed and distance in a “simulation” aspect. Those can give more “accurate” results compared to the pure ERG mode alone.
Outside of that, you can experiment with the wheel size setting within TR, that will inflate or deflate the resulting speed & distance reported.
Can you lower the resistance on the trainer and then use a higher gear so the wheels move faster?
One way to go is to delete the ride and then enter it manually on Strava. I don’t know if you care if power data is in Strava but you can enter whatever time/distance you want.
(I sort of have the same issue with my Kickr. On one hand it’s nice to do workouts in the small ring. The trainer is quieter when spinning slower. But if I want sort of realistic mileage for Strava I have to use the large chainring.