Let me know if they can send a replacement part, I’m curious if its possible to convert mine to 12mm in the future.
1 Like
Can’t you get a TA/nut for your fork?
I am not aware of an adapter that takes a 15x100mm fork down to 12x100mm. Is that what you are suggesting?
I think this is what he is talking about.
1 Like
Thanks! The 15mm to 12mm conversion kit for my fork is a great option, and since my other bikes have 12mm front axles, I decided to go this route.
1 Like
Appreciate if you could let me know what response you get from Inside Ride.
They offered to sell me a 15mm fork mount for $45 and said that I could return the 12mm fork mount for a refund if I wanted to. It was not clear whether the 15mm mount comes with 12mm adapters.
1 Like
My special order was delivered with the 15mm fork mount and no adapters. From the looks of it, I should be able to get the 12mm fork mount and install myself for the day I sell my bike and buy a new one with 12mm thru-axle.
I have five rides on my new E-Flex and thought I would share my initial thoughts.
- It took only a few minutes to get used to the motion and I had no trouble taking my hands off the bars to grab a towel or my phone
- The stock fore-aft tension seems too high
- Most importantly, I feel as if my power numbers are 20w lower for a perceived effort. This is based on many rides on the same Zwift routes and knowing what my times/power output typically is. (not even remotely scientific, I know)
I plan to remove my Kickr from the E-Flex and ride it rigid again for a few days to see if my power numbers are back where I think they should be.
1 Like
One quick test is to remove the o-rings from the front section fore-aft. All you do is force it to one direction, slip the loose o-ring off the center screw and washer, and return the other way and pull off the 2nd one.
That’s what I did and like it. All I have is the rear section fore-aft springs and it is far less aggressive on the centering.
I’d see of that makes the power issue feel better. Either way, I will be interested to hear your before and after comments when you retest rigid.
1 Like
I’ve got the front disconnected.
I"m having an issue getting it plum. I’ve adjusted the back end, shimmed the F&R, and now i’ve installed adjustable feet.
1 Like
No problems here, and my seated sprint power is the same inside and outside. Just using the stock setup, no adjustments.
3 Likes
- Is your floor level? Sounds like it’s not, but maybe your adjustments are correcting for that now?
Make sure you have the “leaf spring” installed for the proper Kickr model. The instructions can be confusing, and I have seen several people do it incorrectly, so worth a double check.
- Of course the floor is not level. Who has a level floor???
- I’ve messed with the leaf spring all the way. Flipped it, slid it around, shimmed it, etc.
1 Like
And the totally left field question, is the rear section installed the right direction?
Meaning, the leaf spring of the E-Flex is on the left side, sitting beneath the flywheel, and supports the rear section of the trainer base. I only ask because I’ve see this done wrong, twice.
2 Likes
yep… Only thing I haven’t checked is that the frame doesn’t have an issue, but it’ll lean either to 11 or 1 o clock depending. The seat-centering was a bit of an issue, but not the whole issue. Levelers did the most. Another thing, I’m backed up against the upright on the rear pipe clamp., I might try the 700c setting to get some more spring under the flywheel.
1 Like
That looks pretty good.
-
That height change won’t really have an impact. The leaf spring sits under the fixed rear foot of the Kickr. Changing the axle height won’t impact the loading on the spring at all.
-
At most, it might shift center of mass higher, which might make a difference, but that only seems to indicate some alignment issue elsewhere.
-
If you want a stiffer spring, you can add some shims between the spring and the Kickr foot. Or you can flip it to the Kickr 18 setting (without the slot next to the mounting surface.
It’s seated right, and if I move the unit forward, it will give the spring more leverage. I’ve tried shimming the spring, but no dice. Shimming the front unit works better, shimming both works better still, adjusting the saddle rotation helped a bit.
Part of the problem with all this is that I’m on carpet, on the 2nd floor of house, so the level get off somewhat often. Maybe the unit is machined wrong. In any case, it is very sensitive. It only takes a few degrees out of plumb for it to cause some strain on the body.
1 Like
Tricky. I see, you are talking about sliding the trainer forward in the mount. That will tweak spring force in small ways, nice idea.
I am on carpet (with a thick foam foundation), but a concrete floor in the basement, so more stable in ways. That and the fact that I also made the whole thing less stable with my mini-rocker under the front means my experience is quite a bit different than your.
Sorry you are having these issues. Hopefully you can get it dialed and just enjoy the motion.