I think - and I realise we’re straying majorly off-topic here - that if there is to be some allowance for frustration amongst those seeking help, the same understanding should be extended towards those offering it.
Like many regulars, I respond to multiple queries on this forum, sometimes in great detail. Sometimes people thank you, other times people just post a topic and then don’t even respond to any of the helpful replies. So if someone’s query strikes the wrong tone, it’s understandable that it may test one’s patience and civility.
H2 user here. Absolutely love it. It wasn’t working right out of the box, then I checked out rouvy and realized it needed a software update and everything has been perfect since. Check with your supplier and or cycleops. If it looked used out of the box, your supplier needs to straighten that out. Cycleops also has great customer service and they will work with you so that you have a good experience with their product.
Guys, no frustration towards anyone here. I’ve calibrated, and firmware up to date. Ive checked multiple devices. My iOS are all up to date. This thing looks lightly used, and I could tell by the inside packaging right off the bat that i wasn’t the first to remove it. This thing literally doesn’t generate any resistance, and, of course, ERG mode is not working. I’ve been online with the supplier, and after troubleshooting, they seem to think it’s a bad unit. Oh, did someone mention I need to plug it in?!!
I would like to know your experience with CT, seems they have mixed reviews and I did as you did, gave them a shot. I hope it’s not as bad as it sounds for you. I’ve dealt with five kickrs over the last nine months and neo 2 showing up today from CT, last thing I want to see is a used, dead device.
@Roikyou CT is great. They are out of H2. I’m returning it per their directive, and will buy locally from REI. I trust CT with purchases over most. I’ve spent a lot of money with them
I’ve kept serial numbers and videos of every dead one. The fifth is running but I’m over it. I’ve got someone running it and if it works out, it’s they’re for a song and dance. I like the idea of no belts, calibrations and hopefully, no failures. I did swap the kickr for an h2, my second kickr, nothing wrong with that one, I was gun shy after the first failure, just a little louder and not so friendly to Trek through axles, so I jumped ship right back to kickr only for many failures. Wished I would have stuck with it but oh well…
Guys, wanted to tie-in w/ you all. I decided to give it one more go. I went to REI, and got an H2, as my other one will be shipped back to CT. Although I don’t put blame on CT (it did irk me mine was used), I decided I wanted to purchase locally. I got up and running, and this one is holding power, and ERG mode is working like a champ. I must say, Wahoo did a very good job on artificially keeping the smoothing very…well…smooth. I know in all actuality, if the power output on TR says 225, and I’m hitting a consistent 225, that number is not actually a steady 225 (I did not know this–noob, I get it). The big difference between the Wahoo and H2, as far as smoothing goes, is my H2 jumps around a little bit, which is good. On my Kickr, I could hit the cadence heavy, and my power might jump from 250-253, and then back down to a steady 250. My H2 will show me at a higher power, and then back down to its respective power output. I was expecting the H2 to be much louder. I’m very pleased on how quiet it is. It is much quieter than my 2 Kickrs that blew on me. Matter of fact, my wife came upstairs when my last Kickr went, and wanted to know what the loud noise was. @Roikyou, how did your new trainer suit you? Did you get all set up today? @mcneese.chad, thank you for your emails, and follow up w/ me.
Good deal and glad you got a properly functioning trainer. The CT issue sounds like a fluke.
I think you will really like the H2. The power fluctuations are normal and more like what you see on a regular power meter as well.
Yule, the noise is quite well contained in the enclosure. It’s better than all prior kicker because of the case. Another benefit of the case is the covered flywheel. No risk of burns from contact if you step off or a kid/pet touches it while spinning.
Happy training and welcome back to the land of smart trainers.
Slightly off topic: The smoothing on the Kickr is overly fake, IMHO. That can eve be turned off to show a more realistic value, just like the H2. I recommend it to pretty much everyone because what the Kickr does is totally unnatural.
So i got everything setup last night, didn’t read the instructions but figured it out. Allot of adapters and thread types. I’m really surprised that they don’t include the 2mm spacer as the 5mm is to big. You can see daylight between the brake caliper and the neo. On the cassette side, lowest gear had just enough light shine between the derailer and the neo. So no spacer used. Fang mountain +1 was my first side, no vibrations, noise other than a little squeak on the right hand side, could be pedal or cleat.
Back up a step, box came in a box, not like a sleeve like the kickr but bigger with a little padding and air on one side. The box looked like it saw better days.
Side note, I give Cyclops h2 for using cardboard for packaging, well done. Wahoo, great packaging and sleeve, product comes looking brand new but I wish you’d find something other than styrofoam and that your products work longer than a month. As far as neo, styrofoam, use something like the h2 does and don’t pack your device on the wheel block. I saw dents in the block and device from the two resting on each other.
As far as the neo, don’t like the wheel block, going to try a ride tomorrow without it. Really like the side to side movement versus the rigid bike. Made the ride a little more comfortable. No flywheel, moment to adjust to no spindown. When power drops, it drops. I’m good with that, no belts and less mechanical to deal with. I think it’s a change for the better.
I had the same with my Neo 2. It appears to be residue from rubbing inside the protective foam inserts, that results from the great distance of travel and the associated vibrations from that transport. It cleans right up with a mild cleaner and a rag.
You will likely want some riser, because with out it, you will be “pointed downhill” since the rear axle in the trainer is effectively elevated. It’s odd to me that Tacx didn’t design the trainer to be used flat on the floor, without a riser. It makes mounting the bike more difficult because of that height (especially when compared to Kickr’s and Hammers).
One trick with the h2. I noticed when resistance is increasing on the h2 that I start to feel it a little bit early. When resistance is about to drop I drop off about 2 seconds early so I don’t spin out, sometimes when I spinout TR stops as the h2 is not getting input. Just makes it easier for me.
I’m okay with weathered, with my two dogs shedding, even though they’re not in the garage, there’s dog hair that I clear up every couple days, so it’s never going to be perfect.
One thing I did remember, it was kind of weird at first, when you first ramp up power, takes a second before you really start seeing the resistance. Oh, the pretty light below, mostly purple but I saw some blue and red in it, thought it would be more significant but not a deal breaker. Really like that it works without being plugged in.
This is driven from TR, because they send the resistance change instructions about 2 seconds early to start and end. They do this to account for the inherent delay in resistance changes that exist in all trainers. They don’t all have the SAME delay (in seconds), but they do all have SOME delay.
They do this with the aim of getting the applied power to match up closer to the power blocks in the workout data. It does a better job than making no adjustment at all, but it does take a bit of recognition to plan on hitting the power a bit sooner than people expect on the countdown to the actual 0:00 of the interval start/end.
I’m rather find a flat block of wood so you have movement in your front handlebars, adds a little to the “natural” feel or as close as you can get. That totally rigid front wheel is kind of “meh” to me. I wonder what thickness you would need to compensate for the wheel riser, I’m tempted to head to the local hardware and pick up a block of wood, probably an inch thick. And yes, mounting the bike really tests how high you can kick your leg up…
I totally agree, rigid is so odd feeling. I am working on a spring centered Lazy Susan of my own design. It is planned to work with a modified rocker plate idea I want to test.
I’m nuts, I’d pay 250 bucks and not use the steering option as I only do trainerroad just to have that movement in the front wheel, the right front wheel height and something made by the manufacture I can put the blame on. It looks pretty slick idea.
