Deep section carbon wheels on a budget?

I disagree here… not for good reasons though…

  1. Looks - Aero spokes look way cooler because they have more flat surface. Just more light collecting area. That 2.2mm of surface is going to show way more than the 1.8mm of round spoke. The difference as you move and it changes shape adds a lot more “drama” the the look.
  2. (theoretical) Durability - No good data… but a CX-Ray is about 3x more durable in the same setting as a Race ( https://dcrwheels.co.uk/custom-wheelsets/choosing-spokes-advice/ ) because the center section is ‘work hardened’ - the micro imperfections in the steel have been banged out of it and ‘welded’ back together. However they use the same non-butted head/thread sections, so they’ll just break there.
  3. Aero - they are ever so slightly more aero in real world conditions (sub 1w at high speeds). The rectangular Pillar less so than the oval Sapim CX-Ray / DT Swiss aero spokes, especially in indirect winds.

@ rkoswald If you get the pillar spokes, again the finish isn’t nearly as even on them and it’s not as smooth. It tends to hold oils, which you can see. Maybe put some carwax on them, so they get an even coat of oil/wax right away and look nice.
Also, I don’t know if I recommended the “Satin” finish, but you can request it post-order when they follow up with you. It looks a lot nicer than either the matte or gloss finishes - kinda like the current Enve finishes… kind of a ‘dry’ clean car vs something waxed polished to the n-th degree.

For what its worth, I have a set of Tokyowheel 3.4 (38mm/43mm), paid $540 USD, and they have a similar profile to ENVE 3.4. Tokyowheel also produce a 5.6 (55mm/65mm) and a 7.10 (70mm/100mm) for around the same price. They’re UCI approved (not really sure what difference that makes), ride really nice and for the price seem like a really solid option.

thanks!

I don’t think it means anything other than they sent an application in, maybe a sample or independent test result. I know there are also EU certifications. The problem here is 1) that doesn’t mean they consistently build the certificated/tested build 2) They don’t have a US/EU/etc business to hang liability on for bad products even if they are lying and building s***. It doesn’t mean they do anything consistently. It does mean that UCI can ban the name if they have failures though. If there’s no one to sue, there’s no one to put out of business.

Any chance you can show a picture from the rear or head-on? I’d curious to see how “fat” the tires look. Just got myself an Allez Sprint Comp Disc and I’m between the AR56 and WR65 to run with GP5000 TL. Leaning towards the WR65 right now.

Is this what you’re looking for? 25c (even with rim, but looks like the rim is wider) & 28C (slightly wider than rim edge). GP5K on AR, then 30c G-One on AR. Keep in mind the AR Rim is 30mm at the widest, WR is 34(?)mm at the widest.

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That’s definitely part of wanted to see, thanks. I’m just curious how it looks on an Allez Sprint.

For anyone who may be interested in the Winspace Hyper wheels, I’ve just installed them on my CAAD13. Overall very nice, and true to advertised weight. As I’m in Canada, we’ll need to standby until at least May before I can give any on-road impressions, but so far so good in my kitchen…

These are 50mm depth, 19mm internal, 26mm external…

Edit: it’s worth noting that the Pirelli’s photographed here are 25-622, but measure about a mil wider when mounted. They don’t fit as flush with the external width, nor as true to size as the GP5000’s which is a slight disappointment.

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A bit of a random question, will you be hanging your bike with the new wheels on the wall mount you see on your wall? I have the same one and was wondering if it could possibly damage the wheel vs something like a Steadyrack mount.

No problem hanging them like that. You wouldn’t want to ride them if something like that would damage them.

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Won’t be an issue. Ditto what Dwayne said ^.

I usually leave it standing in the stand you see photographed, but have no quarrels hanging it by the wheel (whether with the Hyper hoops, or the stock wheels). I will however, be moving to a new home soon, and will likely change the vertical mount to a horizontal ‘pedal type’ hook mount purely for aesthetic reasons. Fortunately the other CAAD you see on the wall is my SO’s, so I’ve spun it as ‘art’ (small win for 2020).

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New question: What are the pros/cons of wheel depths for, say, 35mm vs 45mm vs 55mm vs 65mm (other than weight, obviously)?

I’m particularly interested in the 25mm wide Light Bicycle Falcon wheels. These are within my budget and should fit on my older road bike. I’m primarily into centuries and fondos without too much climbing and was leaning toward the 55mm depth for a good set of all around wheels.

I have an older Vittoria Tactic on the front (~25mm deep, ~1900g) and Velocity A23 on the rear (19.5mm deep, website says 840g but that seems way too light), so just about any deep section carbon wheel will be an upgrade. Thanks in advance!

Generally I think the differences in depth are that deeper are heavier, could be harder to handle in crosswinds, are stiffer, and more aero. There may be some others but I think those are the major differences.

It sounds like the weight for the Vittoria is a wheelset weight while the Velocity weight is for that single wheel.

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Ahh, that makes sense - good call! Any of these will still be an upgrade for sure!

Coming from 19mm deep aluminum clinchers, any of those will be a massive step up. Depending on how/where you ride, for most people who tackle any amount of hilly terrain, or windy conditions, I’d say that 45mm is the sweet spot. Deeper definitely has is advantages(especially at 20mph+), but the returns begin to diminish as far as depth vs aero benefit, and with that, the weight and the handling in wind begins to factor in more and more. With all that said, if you’re a bigger rider, say over 180lbs, the jump up to 55mm won’t blow you around as much as a 150lb rider…

Thanks. I’m 5’ 11” and 165 lbs. so maybe the 45s are a better choice.

You know what people never say? ‘I wish I wasn’t so aero’. Go big.

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But people (me) have said "I wish I didn’t have an 80mm front on when its a 23mph cross wind :wink:

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Ok… a few things…

  1. Those wheels are wider than 25mm. They are 27.3mm wide at the widest point. This shouldn’t be an issue though. If you’re on a bike designed for 25c tires max, LB has a chart - https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/Road-Bike-Tire-Width-Charts.html
  2. Depth… more important than the depth is the shape and that you’re using the right tire for the width of the wheel. These are made for 25mm (measured) tops. After that, the shape is important (old V shaped rims and deep AL rims are the worst). Finally depth. Static winds generally arent an issue, just turbulent winds will move you.
    I have a set of their AR 46mm deep wheels and they move around A LOT LESS than my DT Swiss 32mm deep AL rims - those weren’t too bad. Rider weight doesn’t matter at all, but the amount of wind YOU catch might. Zipp 303 are 45mm and considered a windy day wheel; 404 are bread-and-butter at 58mm.

And those people got dropped. :man_teacher: