Yikes thats a lot. I’ve had tyres do that initially when fitted but after a few rides any loss has been unnoticeable but I’ve also had tyres which continued that scale of loss and its turned out to be the valve/ rim/ tape and not the tyre. The 5000s TL/TRs IME have been good if the valve/rim/tape are good. On a tyre that wasnt a 5000 however (a WTB), I couldn’t get it to hold air with new valves, clean rims or new tape until, I changed the sealant from Stans regular to Stans Race and since then it has been good since 
There is no 5000 S TL, only 5000 S TR. The old one was 5000 TL. I guess this makes the difference. I might need to remove the tire, clean the inner part with isopropyl alcohol and then install it using the above MTB instructions, which specifically says - “Tubeless Ready”, not Tubeless. 
Stan’s sealant is hard to remove. Continental Revo Sealant is much easier to remove from the tire.
I’ve used continental once a bike shop put it in (so I’ve not much experience of it) but it seemed OK for the 3months or so it was in. But I must admit that eventually I topped it up with Joes or Stans Race without removing it and I had no problems. I prefer the slightly thicker stuff for sealing which probably does mean its harder to clean.
A bit OT the one sealant I found really bad was Finishline.
Why are you taking sealant OUT of your tires? What am I missing?
The secret to removing sealant is the same secret to it lasting forever, just put a lot in. It’ll create a thicker layer to peel.
Any unlined (Tubeless ready) tire is going to be a pain as the latex embeds itself in the tire. The GP5k TLs were super easy to clean. Someone needs to sell tubeless prep goo that you can paint on - it probably exists already and is called latex paint.
Is there no sealant on the sidewall? It’s really weird that just air is coming out.
I can only theorize that the sealant isn’t sticking to the sidewalls and it’s all pooled at the low point.
Maybe install the 2nd one with a good pre-cleaning and see what happens?
I can only agree with this, the tape is usually the first and worst culprit. I’ve done a bit of wheel servicing this week following a slice in the sidewall. Tape was a bit mangled on the inside but did work fine. Stripped it out, good clean, new tape, new 5000TR, couldn’t hold pressure. Tried a few times, always went soft. Tyre off, clean, extra layer of tape, perfect. I strongly suspect it is the junction between valve and tape that is invariably the weak point in the majority of cases. Note though, getting the valve off originally was a killer, old sealant clogging the threads. No way I could remove out on the road and whip a tube in. Note to self, every so often unscrew the nut a tad to clean the thread to avoid a very long walk.
Tis mighty helpful to shrink your tape after applying with a heat gun, then set the edges down with the back side of the tip of a butter knife (the non-edged rounded bit) or something.
Maybe don’t do that on a carbon rim, though…
I’ve never had to use heat gun on the tape!? I do press the edges down with a plastic tyre lever though.
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Please go check and send us a photo of the tyre sidewall with S TR printed on it, I’ve a hunch that you’ve got a tube type tyre.
It says “TR” on the tire in the youtube video. You can even see it in the preview.
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I’m still going with “faulty tire”. They simply shouldn’t piss out air like that once there’s sealant inside.
Actually, it looks like this is the right answer. Yesterday, I removed the tire and sealant, then I did the following:
- Cleaned the inside with isopropyl alcohol
- Put some sealant inside and rubbed it into the walls with a hard brush, like Continental recommends on the video
- Added 40ml of sealant and pumped the tire
The result was still the same. Then I decided to try the bucket method. I put the tire on the bucket to level the sealant on one side. Then started pumping it to 73 psi and turning the wheel every hour. The tire was loosing about 10 psi an hour. I did this for the entire day. The next morning it was completely flat. I pumped it once more and it is almost as good as my old 5000 TL. It lost a few psi during the day. I am going to leave it on the bucket for the next day or two, but it looks like the problem is solved. The tire rolls like crazy actually, even though I only installed it on the front. It has noticeably less resistance and when I hit a bump it feels like a gentle shake on the front, but more like a bump on the rear.
So my theory is the following. The sidewall material is porous, but the size of the holes is so small that only air molecules can go through. The sealant is designed to fill small punctures, but not tiny holes like this. Splashing it around the tire does not help, but when it covers the entire sidewall, it slowly makes it through under pressure.
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Glad you are getting it sorted.
But IMHO this seems like WAY too much of hassle to go through just to install a tire that holds air. As big of a PITA as the old 5000 TL were to install on a lot rims at least they held air when you finally did get them installed and sealant was added. In my experience anyway. My expectations for a properly designed tubeless system are to mount the tire, add sealant, pump them up, go for a ride and be done with it.
So do my 5000TR’s, Im not sure what’s going on for the OP. Like the TL’s IME theyll loose 5-10psi at most over a week.
I agree. I think Continental messed something up here. There is a year old video that shows the same problem. Note how many people in the comments are saying that they also experience this issue.
I actually wrote Continental support. Here is their response:
We regret, that you have problems with our products.
It is unfortunately not possible for us to provide a diagnosis or failure analysis remotely.
Please handle this complaint by the dealer from whom you purchased the tires.Mit freundlichen Grüssen / Best regards,
Yvonne Fait
Given that I ordered the tires on Amazon, it would be hard to resolve this. Continental customers support sucks.
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There is no 5000TR. If you are talking about 5000TL, then they worked fine for me too. In this thread I am discussing 5000 S TR
Might have got a fake or a quality control rejected one?
Impossible. This is Continental Store on German Amazon
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09HS5SJHM?th=1
Then send them back for being faulty?