Chain too slack? Lol

I have no idea how the chain ended up so slack in the 34-11 combo, I think I always measured my chains based on the original installed chain. I’m replacing the chain this week, but I may experiment with the old chain and remove some links to be sure of how long the new one should be

Def too slack, and if that’s a Shimano quick link it’s also installed backwards

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it’s kmc

Better now, just removed one link. Gonna put on the new one for me weekend century!

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Yip definitely too slack. I use the old chain as a guide too but I some times use the Big Big method if I have made any changes to the cassette/ chain rings.

Chain Length Sizing | Park Tool

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Oddly enough on road type bikes (road/gravel/commuter) I do small small for max wrap. I only do big big on the mtb side of things.

When using the old chain I always try to line it up, link by link. Sometimes I’m successful and some times I get cross eyed and have to start over. Sometimes I think it might be easier to fold the chain into 5 big link sections and count the number of folds and remainder links.

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You should check both if you swap between cassettes and wheels and sometimes exceed the wrap capacity of the RD especially with a short cage. You can feasible size with small small which would be the same length if they both start with an 11T and be the right length for say an 11-28 but too short for 11-34 and blow up your RD shifting into big+big. What I usually do is size with big+big +6 links instead of +2, then see if it works in small small and remove links as necessary until it removes the slack. I’ve also run chains sized for big+big+2 that have the same slack as OP in small+small since this isn’t a combo i use

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They can be installed backwards?

Many chain quick links feature an arrow, that should match the direction of travel, when it is under tension.

image

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uhhhh brb!

edit: yup mines backwards

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I don’t know how important that orientation is but I’m assuming if it wasn’t, it wouldn’t be labeled for any direction at all

I did have a sram power link cleanly fall apart on my MTB once under a shift and would almost bet I had the link installed wrong

ohhhhhhh there is an arrow on those…

and look at that mine is also backwards

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The gear in question is not meant to be used anyway. I wouldn’t worry about it being slack there. I think mine is too, but it comes with the benefit of the chain+rear derailleur not being overstretched when you find yourself (usually accidentally) in the opposite gear combination of big front, big rear.

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While I always have the quick link lined up correctly…I sometimes questions the necessity. If you look on the other side of the bike, suddenly the link is backwards. I have never heard of anyone having a problem with a link backwards.

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I think if anything it has to do with how the link is chamfered on the edges, I haven’t examined the Shimano link but I know that the inner plates and outer plates on a Shimano chain DO vary and there is a specific “out” side to the chain.

A SRAM link backwards becomes a potential issue with its flat top design I guess

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I know there is an arrow, but guess i had the diagram upside down :wink:
So another “brb” to fix it

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This is fantastic. I needed this video specifically as I am swapping my current set up: SRAM Etap AXS 48/35 with a 10-28 cassette to a 10-33 cassette on the back whilst still running the 48/35 at the front. Needed this video as I need to set the chain length again! Legend! Thank you.

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I’ll just plonk these here for your amusement…

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Ouch! What happened here? More importantly, how on earth do I avoid this one @kevstraining?!

Did that last year on my mtb. Only took me like 7 rides to figure out that something wasn’t right 🤦

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