Chain too slack? Lol

I routed the chain around the outside of my jockey wheel cage like an idiot!

I’ve fitted loads of chains and have never made this rookie mistake before.

Only did one ride and the chain had already cut a fair way into the cage - looks like it would have fixed itself eventually :thinking:

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I did that to my friends bike when I was helping out at a shop a while back. Luckily it never left the stand. And that bike had a carbon cage.

We’ve all been there. It’s pretty obvious because your nice new shiny chain is silly loud! It’ll only cost you one quick link (Shimano say theirs aren’t re-usable). I think KMC say theirs are re-usable IIRC (I’ve been using a used 11sp KMC quick link on the trainer with an 8 speed Shimano chain for months and it’s held up well anyway).

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“not reusable”

I do generally agree tbh, but for the price of a multipack of quick links, I choose not to risk it on the bike I ride outdoors

I didn’t think the KMC links were reusable but I do keep an old one in my pocket as a get me home fix.

The KMC links say “non re-usable” in big letters on the front of the package… I think it’s more of a guide than a rule though :thinking:

Honestly, I re used mine in this case after having used it for a single ride - I wouldn’t make a habit of it.

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I have done that as well but caught it before I did a ride. One thing I always do now is back spin the crank after installing a chain. Seems like any install issues really present themselves on a back spin.

Ron

KMC has both reusable and non-reusable, except for 12 speed (eagle) which is only non-reusable.

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I use shimano, and the cost of 2 sets of quicklinks is at least $15. and I rewax my chain every 500 miles. That’ll add up for sure! I reuse them all the time

I find that I can reuse the Shimano ones about 3-4 times before they feel loose. I was going to buy the Connex link but it won’t last forever anyway because the roller portion wears like the regular chain anyway, so sticking to Shimano.

Also someone here noted that the chain being so slack in that gear combo is ok because “you shouldn’t be in that gear combo anyway” which I personally think is not the right approach to have for this. The chain should be the correct length, and if the argument for an extra long chain is that it will put less stress on the derailleur in the big/big combo, my retort would be “you shouldn’t be in that gear combo anyway” :stuck_out_tongue:

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Yeh, I definitely wouldn’t spend that much if I were re-using them all the time. But that is some good anecdotal info. I’m yet to decide whether to clean my new race chain on or off the bike (using Tru Tension drip race lube), so good to know the links hold up well.

Must be two types :man_shrugging:

I believe the re-usable links have an R added onto the part number of the non-reusable links.

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You seem to be misunderstanding the advice above. The correct chain length has two variables and the advice varies depending on the rear derailleur used.

If the Rd is properly sized with enough capacity to take up all the slack in all combinations then you can size the chain longer than the big+big+2 sizing method and still not have slack in the small+small combo. So all gears work and you have less tension overall in all gears. No one afaik has suggested sizing the chain extra extra long like the op has done.

The second case is when using too short of a cage for the gearing combination chosen. In this case you have to decide if you size the chain using either the big+big+2 method which will result in a longer chain and the small+small combo having slack, or removing all the slack in the small+small resulting in a shorter chain. This will lead to the rear derailleur and/or hanger and chain stay blowing up if you accidentally shift into the big+big because the chain is too short.

I was actually referring to this which seemed like a careless way to go about things.

Where do I break my already ridden shimano 11 speed chain with pin to shorten it? Is the old pin a good idea or should I use another link and a new pin?
P.S. new pin anyway

You are only meant to have one quick link fitted a chain. So best to remove your current quick link and replace.

I don’t know why though, if its strong enough its strong enough surely? Maybe its to stop people from cobbling together a new chain from offcuts and quick links? :man_shrugging:

I don’t think this is necessarily true. I run 2 in my Eagle chain, I was simply told by my LBS they shouldn’t be too close together but running two per chain is ok

I didn’t mean a quick link but a pin, if it makes a difference.