I don’t think those XTR pedals will work, lock bolt diameter on the XTRs has been smaller than pretty much the rest of the Shimano pedals.
Thanks so much… I’ll just get the 540s unless there is a better one recommended for gravel racing type use?
I’ve been using some M-8000s as they were handy and worked. The engagement is pretty uniform across the Shimano mtb pedal line.
Do you know / think the M8120 and ES600 are compatible? And if so, would you recommend one over the other for 200km gravel race use? I picked up some M540s but just thinking the larger platform would be better.
Somewhere in this thread there was a pic of someone who used the ES600s and they added some o-rings to cover a bit of exposed area on the spindle. I’ve converted some PD-A600s. Prefer the dual side for fast entry over the single side. The A600s were a nice light conversion though.
The 8120s may not work. Compare these two exploded views and p/ns
Just went through the thread to figure out what Shimano Pedals are compatible with Assioma DUO-Shi. I think I will go with the PD-M8100, PD-M540 or PD-M520 (520 were mentioned most often).
Here an overview for all current Shimano Offroad and Explorer pedals
PS: I might have missed something, so no guarantee. Happy to update if I made an mistake
Today I received my Favero Assioma Duo-Shi axels.
I had two different pedals: PD-M8100 and PD-M520.
I tried both, not sure how others were able to use PD-M8100, it didnt seem to fit without breaking anything.
Here the three different axels in comparison (for reference)
- Left: Favero Assioma Duo-Shi
- Middle: PD-M8100
- Left: PD-M520
In comparison the axels of “official” supported pedals
Installation was easy and straight forward. Keep in mind, you need the Shimano Tl-PD40 adapter for PD-M520. For PD-M8100 a 17 wrench was enough. Both pedals are very tied, if you have any option to fixate the pedals (e.g. screw clamp, jaw vice), it will help a lot.
- Q-Factor: Still, I have to test it longer over the next days. The first couple of km felt fine, might have to adjust cleat position / saddle position.
- Shoes: My Lake MX-238 shoes fit with no issues and have enough clearing
- When I installed the pedals on the Assioma Duo-Shi, I didn’t add any additional grease onto the axle, is this an issue?
- How would you store the original PD-M520 axels?
I know there has been a lot of concern about real MTB riding and pedal strikes yet people have seemed to smash them without issue. I haven’t read of a single issue where someone has broken the Pod. I’m looking for a pedal based power meter and was initially considering the Rally XC100 until I found out about the stack height and read about a few people breaking the pedal body. The Assioma Hack seems to be the better option.
I’ve ridden converted Assiomas with xpedo bodies approx 15k km off-road with no issues.
I have boots on the crank arms - I use these ones https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07FK727H4 - of my grx crankset. The boots are a bit longer than the pods, meaning that I hit them in most cases if and when I should strike rocks etc.
Downer. Not a single proper flat pedal there.
Not sure if it’s rock strike related, but my battery is absolutely cooked. It lasts maybe a ride then drains itself, have a ticket in with Favero and they’re looking into it.
Dang. Does the pod look like it’s taken some abuse?
Not too bad. Some scuffs but the area where the battery is largely clean They’re offering me a replacement spindle at 33% off since my pedals are out of warranty as of 2/2022.
Same. I have been riding my converted pedals for a few years now and the left pedal is no longer hold in a charge. I can get one ride in but that’s it.
Why will the PD-T8000 not work?
The axle looks pretty much the same like the PD-M8100.
Hi SpeedyChix, when you put the Shimano PD A600’s on the Shi Duos, did you need the 3 rubber washers?
I didn’t use any washers.
Great, sounds like a very simple easy conversion, thank you.
I’ve read a lot of confusing statements on this so I thought I’d ask the question again, but will Assioma DUO-Shi fit with Shimano PD-ES600 SPD pedals without any hack or additional pieces ? I’m aware that there might be a bigger offset (4mm?) than the stock thread, but there doesn’t seem to be a definitive agreement about this online.