I used the CXR pedals, I also cheated and ended up using threadlocker (the blue one so i could remove the bolt later), tightening the bolt down to where the pedal spun freely with 0 lateral play. Let the threadlock cure for 24 hours and haven’t had a problem since September.
I did the conversion with a set of CXR’s and had to issues with the pedal spinning. From inside to out here’s the way it worked for me:
Assioma spindle --> CXR o-ring --> CXR pedal body --> Assioma end nut --> CXR dust cap.
Everything is tightened to 9Nm and spins freely. I initially tried using the Assioma inside washer (too tight) as well as the Assioma dust cap (too tight).
Yep. saw your video (thanks). So far everything seems to be working really well with just the o-ring.
Thanks for the info.
So in summary the CXR “works” but isn’t fully compatible as the bearings on the crank side of the pedal loose the protection from the elements that the washer and o-ring combined provide. The bearings might fail sooner but at $25 a set it’ll take years before this approach will cost as much as SRM X-Power…
Also - the price difference between the CXR vs the M-Force 8 is almost £100 for me in the UK. I couldn’t justify the expenditure on a pair of pedals, sure they’re a lovely bit of kit in titanium but not for a fat lad like me… Leave that for the front of pack weight weenies!
As an alternative pedal body to the XPEDO I came across these
The flash III appear to be a three bearing construction
Anyone tried this body?
I was curious about this as well. I emailed ISSI and this was their response:
“Thanks for reaching out. While our spindles are very similar to those used by Xpedo, I can’t say 100% that they’ll work with what you’re trying to do. Consequently, I can’t really recommend using them for the swap.”
Not sure if they are just covering themselves or what, we’ll have to wait and see if someone on here has them and can confirm.
Good of them to reply. Probably covering us (Assioma owners) more than themselves as ISSI wouldn’t have liability for a modification like this, but it would invalidate the Assioma warranty. My pedals are now out of warranty so have Xpedo CXR on the way to test out how it works for the new Orbea Terra en-route to me now.
Another data point to add to the thread:
I used a set of CXRs and the combination in logella’s post worked perfectly and torqued down properly. So much more grease on the Xpedo spindle which I found interesting.
I have a pair of S-Works 6 XC shoes and I prefer using these for road bike commuting and urban riding. I like the walkability of SPDs when getting around the office, or down the corridors of hotels, train station staircases, etc. These Xpedo pedals don’t have the same smooth release and entry I’m used to from my Shimano XT XC pedals, but I’ve grown used to them.
Lastly, I did not have to trim off any of the shoe, but I did have to shift the cleats fully in-board to get clearance. I haven’t done any measurements to see if this is throwing q-factor or alignment off, but I’ve ridden 2 hours in this arrangement and no discomfort.
Tried this with M-force 4 cr, doesn’t work as of now based on these instructions above. The problem is the silver inside “end cap” from the Assioma does not slide inside the Xpedo pedal body. So, when you go to torque the nut, the pedal will not spin freely as the end cap is pressing against the sensor. I tried without that inside “end cap” and just the rubber soft washer from the xpedo spindle, but then the pedal sort of wobbles too much without that endcap, doesn’t seem stable like that.
Any ideas? Anyone worked this issue out?
Reinstall the road bodies on the Assoma spindle and check for the same play without the end cap. They will move a little without the endcap on.
Not getting the same amount of wobble/movement with the road bodies, without that endcap or even with it. I made a quick little video to show the issue, think some guys above were trying to explain this also.
Sorry, heres correct link for the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYFQT1G9pac
It looks like you got the wrong pedals. You pointed it out that the spindle on yours doesn’t taper like ones Shane uses in his video.
It appears there are a couple variations of the M-Force 4s out there. Not sure which are the latest however since Xpedo doesn’t list them on their website.
I grabbed a couple stills from your video and compared the two spindles and they are indeed slightly different which could account for the added wobble your seeing.
Looks like the M-Force 4 pedals that @GPLama used in his video are hard to track down. What pedals should I pick up instead? Seems like people have had success with the CXR’s? Going to do this conversion for my father in a couple of weeks!
Thanks a bunch
CXRs are the only ones you can easily track down, and work just fine as long as you use the combination of parts in one of the posts above.
Did these work out?
Yeah they work fine. See posts above for data analysis. No issues.
I’m approaching 2 months now with my CXR’s and they are still working great. See my post above about the order of parts that worked for me.