Those numbers are from a drum. Real world MTB is a bit different. Grip and confidence when taking a corner may not show up in RR but do matter.
Holy crap.
Just got an email from Eriks Bike Store that they ācanāt sell me that bikeā now and refunded my money. After placing the order, I reached out to them specifically to verify it was available and in stock and no tariffs. They confirmed everything was good to go.
From there, I ordered a LOT of parts from various suppliers - waxed chain, pedals, shock pump, etc. etc. All items Iāll probably use eventually, but going to be a while. I had no interest in probably purchasing a bike for 6+ months but that was a killer deal to come by.
I called them and they couldnāt give me any specific reason over the phone, other than a āsorry.ā
Wish I was in the market but alas.
FA has me interested in the longer travel XC racers. My supercal can be bought with FA, but Iām not sure the point of that. Just as it comes without FA itās such an efficient pedaler. Also seeing more 3 position manual lockouts out there. Those intrigue me as well.
The only reason not to go FA is $$$, right? Maybe it will become as available as 3 position lockout is now? Cutting edge today, but BAU tomorrow.
I think $ is a downside, but you could also argue reliability/complexity and the silliness of charging 4 batteries to ride your bike (assuming electronic shifting and dropper). Small weight penalty also, but you get rid of 2 cables from the front of the bike. Other potential downside is long term serviceability. I donāt worry much about getting new parts to service the traditional suspension components (damper, spring, seals, etc.), but the shock has all the electronics built in and the fork control module also isnāt likely to be a serviceable part.
Went with a fork only FA Sid Ultimate for my gen 2 Supercal. Upgraded from Fox 34. Rear shock without a lockout. Works well, and was reasonably cheap (1350ā¬).
And if you adjust the air pressure in your suspension, you have to another calibration.
Since we were both āTeam Supercaliberā, you should now come join us on āTeam Epicā. I did a FA build this spring and it is a great bike thatās super versatile but quite a bit more capable than the SC. If itās in the budget, 100% get FA. I just let it do itās thing and it works perfectly.
The only minor issue Iāve had with my Epic is a bit of headset creaking. It seems everything is snug and tightly pulled together, but the small set screw on the collar (exposed when you turn the bar) seems to play a role in the creak. Iāve had to back it off some to relieve the creaking.
Sounds like the āpowers that beā may have gotten to them. Didnāt you ask another shop to match?
Probably threw up a red flag.
Well, I just jumped on a leftover S-Works Epic 8 Frameset that was discounted. I can swap over most of what I have from my Oiz, but will at least be upgrading Brakes to 4-piston and will need a new FA shock and at least a new stem and BB. Iāll sell the Oiz Frame with the shock and spares to recoup some of what Iām spending so shouldnāt be too horrible.
All of the drivetrain, the fork, dropper, wheels Iāll be able to move over, but will wait until after Coldwater Trail until I start pulling everything apart.
Yeah I asked another shop to match and they seemed pretty surprise by the deal at Erikās and I wouldnāt put something like that past them - either notifying or having someone else buy it. I ordered it later the same day and despite the order going through and their email confirmation that it was available, I still got hosed.
Another local shop here has the same bike for $12,500, but at that point, is it worth it to get the 2026 model for lighter wheels and a few other items for $15k?
My wife gave the green light to buy the new model, but not sure I can stomach dropping $15k+ on a MTB right now in the middle of a cross country move. When it was a total steal at $10k that made it easy. Iāll probably wait until I move and get settled and make a decision.
I could give you really bad advice if you want it to hear it:
Buy this EE7: Here
Take every part off it and put on another cheap frame, then sell it for even more price offset or keep it as a mud bike. Take the the EE7 frame and build it up however you want for less than Eriks bike deal and potentially have (2) bikes 
As someone who has a EE7 that is 21.4lbs - I can confirm that after 2-seasons of racing/riding it is getting beat up just like any MTB would and the rider is the real performer (not the bike, but it helps).
Iām also on an EE7, built up with FA and feel like itās all the bike I need/want for everything I race - they are an amazing bike.
Also on an EE7 and thatās what I did almost two years ago. Mine is like 24-ish pounds with some weight to lose and is my everyday rig. Have a fun wheelset/tire combo Iāll toss on soon when Iām done chasing a few segments.
+1.
EE7 is a great bike. I built mine up to the pro level specs (no batteries on purpose) and is sitting 23.5 all in with pedals, water bottle changes, computer, etc. I have to admit I am Epic 8 curious but there isnāt anything that is pushing me to upgrade yet as the bike is so capable.
I cannot put my finger on it, but these photos of the Backcountry EE7ās donāt look great. Maybe a small frame vs whatever size specialized usually use? Maybe the cream frame on a white background? The fork stanchions look thicker too, probably seeing both at once.
The EE7 stock photos from the website look much better.
Still, buying EE7 and rebuilding is probably the best deal around since the EE8 frame only deal ended.
Slamming the stem and using some filters would do the EE7 special on backcountrys website wonders.
Also, I am not an expert in FA but pretty sure these bikes have a fork that can be converted/upgraded to FA also.
I saw Supercalibers w FA are 15k now -man that is just beyond my brain.
The industry has always been broken, but itās really gotten out of hand in the last 5 years with the covid craziness.
I donāt buy the top end stuff, but I still have the better part of $10k in my new XC bike. As long as we keep paying it, they will keep asking these prices. When a non-cyclist asks how much one of my bikes cost, Iām too embarrassed to admit that what I paid. The bike prices really are dumb, but still cheaper than many hobbies overall.
Meanwhile, you can get a Honda CRF250 for under $10k. The material costs, engineering, and labor to produce a nice dirt bike has got to be 5x the cost of a high end MTB, but somehow they are over 30% cheaper. My next XC bike might just be a honda if the price is right.
Carbon frames and components are labor intensive, hence costly. But I think the biggest driver is the duopolies between SRAM and Shimano, and SRAM and FOX on the expensive components that really drive the cost of the bike (Drivetrain/Brakes, and suspension components respectively). Iād guess between those three, they suck up 75% of the profit pool in the high end MTB bike market.