wheelset is about 250gr lighter (carbon spokes, updated rim, but just 28mm internal)
new SRAM Motive brakes ( with the power of SRAM Code, but heavier than the Level 4P)
new RS Reverb AXS dropper (lighter, maintenance/oil free for life )
i have the 2025 Epic 8 Sworks, and just about a 2 months after i got mine, they released the “current” one, and if i could have, i would went for the 2026 model without question. For 5k difference.. well not sure
Yeah all great things, no doubt. I’d venture a guess that if you blindfold 95+% of riders and put them on each bike back to back, they wouldn’t notice the difference, self included.
I could understand some annoyance in paying full price for the older model and then those being released a couple months later. Given the option, still some obvious improvements.
Do you feel like FA needs the AXS controller to get the most out of the system with easier access to override? Or if I’m not already using an AXS dropper is it just as easy to let the FA do it’s thing without an AXS controller and reach down to the fork crown buttons if you really need the override?
I think it depends on how you like to ride and maybe what you are used to on previous bikes. I really like having the override button to lock things out. I have my FA system configured to never lock out the fork unless I hit the override button (which locks shock and fork regardless of terrain). I hate the feeling of climbing out of the saddle without the fork locked and I do it a lot. My prior XC bike was a scott with 3 way lockouts (for both fork and shock) that I had been riding since 2017, so I’m just used to having a way to lock the fork when climbing. I also know folks who ride XC with no lockouts and do great, so they would probably be totally fine on an FA bike with no override and just let FA do it’s thing. So, I guess it depends. I personally wouldn’t want to reach down to the fork crown to lock my fork, I need all the hands I got to drive the bike. Maybe if I only wanted to lock when on pavement, but I actually don’t usually use the override on pavement (the shock will lock automatically and the fork doesn’t bob in pedal mode if I’m in the saddle).
I mentioned this on another forum and feel like it would fit in here.
Specialized MTB tires are supper underrated. If you live somewhere where it’s dry most of the time and you run at a fast pace, the old Specialized fastrack is smoking fast. Like an aspen, but cooler looking and probably faster. I have always had good luck with it. The new tires that are the T series are good too. I loved the old ones just for the novelty and the looks.
Just got an email from Eriks Bike Store that they “can’t sell me that bike” now and refunded my money. After placing the order, I reached out to them specifically to verify it was available and in stock and no tariffs. They confirmed everything was good to go.
From there, I ordered a LOT of parts from various suppliers - waxed chain, pedals, shock pump, etc. etc. All items I’ll probably use eventually, but going to be a while. I had no interest in probably purchasing a bike for 6+ months but that was a killer deal to come by.
I called them and they couldn’t give me any specific reason over the phone, other than a “sorry.”
FA has me interested in the longer travel XC racers. My supercal can be bought with FA, but I’m not sure the point of that. Just as it comes without FA it’s such an efficient pedaler. Also seeing more 3 position manual lockouts out there. Those intrigue me as well.
I think $ is a downside, but you could also argue reliability/complexity and the silliness of charging 4 batteries to ride your bike (assuming electronic shifting and dropper). Small weight penalty also, but you get rid of 2 cables from the front of the bike. Other potential downside is long term serviceability. I don’t worry much about getting new parts to service the traditional suspension components (damper, spring, seals, etc.), but the shock has all the electronics built in and the fork control module also isn’t likely to be a serviceable part.
Went with a fork only FA Sid Ultimate for my gen 2 Supercal. Upgraded from Fox 34. Rear shock without a lockout. Works well, and was reasonably cheap (1350€).
Since we were both “Team Supercaliber”, you should now come join us on “Team Epic”. I did a FA build this spring and it is a great bike that’s super versatile but quite a bit more capable than the SC. If it’s in the budget, 100% get FA. I just let it do it’s thing and it works perfectly.
The only minor issue I’ve had with my Epic is a bit of headset creaking. It seems everything is snug and tightly pulled together, but the small set screw on the collar (exposed when you turn the bar) seems to play a role in the creak. I’ve had to back it off some to relieve the creaking.
Well, I just jumped on a leftover S-Works Epic 8 Frameset that was discounted. I can swap over most of what I have from my Oiz, but will at least be upgrading Brakes to 4-piston and will need a new FA shock and at least a new stem and BB. I’ll sell the Oiz Frame with the shock and spares to recoup some of what I’m spending so shouldn’t be too horrible.
All of the drivetrain, the fork, dropper, wheels I’ll be able to move over, but will wait until after Coldwater Trail until I start pulling everything apart.
Yeah I asked another shop to match and they seemed pretty surprise by the deal at Erik’s and I wouldn’t put something like that past them - either notifying or having someone else buy it. I ordered it later the same day and despite the order going through and their email confirmation that it was available, I still got hosed.
Another local shop here has the same bike for $12,500, but at that point, is it worth it to get the 2026 model for lighter wheels and a few other items for $15k?
My wife gave the green light to buy the new model, but not sure I can stomach dropping $15k+ on a MTB right now in the middle of a cross country move. When it was a total steal at $10k that made it easy. I’ll probably wait until I move and get settled and make a decision.
Take every part off it and put on another cheap frame, then sell it for even more price offset or keep it as a mud bike. Take the the EE7 frame and build it up however you want for less than Eriks bike deal and potentially have (2) bikes
As someone who has a EE7 that is 21.4lbs - I can confirm that after 2-seasons of racing/riding it is getting beat up just like any MTB would and the rider is the real performer (not the bike, but it helps).
