Agreed, 32 is the smallest. I’d love a smaller one. I keep looking for 3rd party versions but no one makes the threadon chainrings that I’ve seen
I was wondering what you guys were talking about so I looked it up, man that kinda seems like a PITA… maybe not, makes it hard to get other chainrings though.
The actual method of attachment is way better than the traditional 4 bolts. Only downside is limited selection/no aftermarket.
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Now that Sram Red also has a threadon chainring, I’m hopeful that some company starts to produce third-party ones. Looking at my 32-tooth on my mtb, I don’t see a reason they couldn’t go smaller.
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Expensive, but no reason you couldn’t get one of the older Eagle Cranks, Quarq PM, and a Wolf Tooth 30T. But that’s a lot of work and money to go from a 32 to a 30. At one point I had a 28T, can’t remember from who though and never tried it out.
I’m still rocking a 34 on my XXSL on the Oiz.
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When it is time to change the chain again I will move to a 34 from my 32t. I think a 34 x 10-50 is a better move for my general riding. I have always been afraid to leave the 32t but realistically where I ride I am only bailing on the 34t to make it easier on myself which I don’t necessarily need (Mental thing)… Does that make sense?
I could use more mid-range gears.
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Ideal scenario is you’re spending most of your time in the middle of your cassette (Straight chain line) while still retaining enough range. Sometimes that’s easier said than done though - range is the most important.
I use the 10-52 with the 34 and it works pretty well for me. There are scenarios I spin out if I’m trying to do a workout on the road or if there are downhills I try and pedal, but not a huge deal. And, I have enough range for all the uphills, although I’m close at Leadville. I could definitely use more there, but for those points I’m probably walking anyways.
+1. I was originally apprehensive about the threaded chainring and I generally hate proprietary stuff. But it’s so much better than messing with chainring bolts, makes for very fast/easy ring changes. I swap rings about as often as I change my underwear, so it was a good move for me. Looking past the stupid cost of the rings and having to buy a special tool, it’s an outstanding design.
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Really? The 4 bolts are very easy to change and my new 38t chainring was $12 shipped.
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Yeah, they aren’t rocket science, but me and chainring bolts don’t get along well for some reason. I’ve tried multiple brands/flavors, with and without anti-seize, and still tend to destroy them from time to time (strip and/or crack them). Not the end of the world when you have spares handy, but I’m usually messing with chainrings many miles from home. The threaded chainring is quick and idiot proof (and I’m an idiot at times), so no regrets.
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I just got a yeti ASR T5 and it rips.
Do I dump the AXS post for a one up V3 120 to save weight? 
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The wireless aspect is more than worth the 100-150 grams or whatever it is between the two.
Edit: And instant activation. Some may scoff, but the difference between a button press and a full lever throw is noticeable to me.
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No, you don’t!
I run a 28 with 9-52 cassette on my Epic 7. It was perfect for my power and the high country Colorado riding that I do. However, I am changing to an Epic 8 with flight attendant thus the change to a different gearing range.
I wish that SRAM allowed use of 3rd party power meters for flight attendant. I would run Assiomas with a standard spider and 28 or 30 tooth chainring.
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She, along with Gwendalynn, both have relatively “low” saddles ( not much seatpost exposed), which makes their effective STAs very steep.
Effective STAs are measured with the saddle at a specific height and are only really accurate at that height since the actual STA is usually much slacker.
This means that people with more seatpost exposed experience a much slacker effective STA and either need a steeper actual STA or to push their saddles further forward..
Since these two examples are somewhat extreme examples of one side of the curve, and something like Blevins’ bike being on the other side (a somewhat ridiculous amount of exposed seatpost) things probably work out pretty well for most people in the middle. 
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I must have some minor trypophobia… I don’t think I could handle that seat. 
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Should I try to ditch my unused dt xrc 1200s to get the new rovals for Leadville
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YES! I want those rovals so bad… but gotta wait until they enter the pro-deal! Too much money to leave on the table at retail!
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It’s funny, because you would have to pay me to run wireless on my bike.