I race the 50-59 group in cat 2… George - biking vikings… Olaf Slowclimber is my self given ‘viking’ name and my handle in this forum.
Heat got to a lot of guys for sure. I used a SIS electrolyte/caffeine tablet in my 0.5 liter camelback… and had their beta-fuel cubes about every 15-20 min or so…as the course and/or my stomach allowed… but I only had to run 2 laps, so handled the heat pretty well and felt good after.
Also racing a Supercaliber. I weigh about 150 lb w/kit and gear, 5’ 9" and ride a size M. @smlring , if you’re bottoming the Isostrut out, I’d try adding a bit more PSI and experimenting with a larger token. I’ve also bottomed it out several times on harder hits and have largely fixed this by adding more PSI. Good luck!
Interesting @Kuttermax , no spacers? So is your approach to have a higher PSI (for your weight) in place of the spacer? I currently also race a Supercaliber, about 150lb all in, size M frame and am experimenting with suspension. I also felt the Isostrut was a bit bouncy like OP, so I reduced the Isostrut to 2-clicks from slowest, 125 psi, original spacer. Thanks
I should probably clarify my prior post. I have not added any spacers to the rear, so it is at factory default which I think is one spacer.
I’ve found that if I dropped PSI below what I’m running (145 psi) I get a lot of pedal strikes on the rocky/rooted terrain I tend to ride. At least for me, I haven’t found it too firm.
I started with suspension setup guide+5psi but guess it needs more. It is cushy as it is so it would not hurt.
Interesting… I’ve never once thought my Supercal was cushy or plush. Maybe try a larger spacer as well?
ah got it. thanks for clarifying.
I want to share my experience with IsoStrut shock service for Trek Supercaliber.
The bike mileage is about one thousand kilometers.
When I wanted to get the оne hundred hour service for the shock, I detected a critical flaw in the shock design.
In this video you can see a part of the frame without IsoStrut shock.
You see some white and yellow round particles.
It’s polyurethane foam. It serves as a carcass for the carbon frame.
The polyurethane foam decays with time. It starts to crumble, turns into fine sand. It all happens inside the shock.
The anodized coating of my IsoStrut shock got damaged after just one thousand kilometers.
I want to find a way to stop it.
I decided to try a glue gun.
What do you say? Got any ideas?
its not a critical flaw.
the anodizing went away because your bushings are too tight. they need to be sized properly. blue liquid labs makes a tool. this is a production flaw.
the foam deteriorated probably because they got dried out from not doing an outer service PRIOR to 100 hours. the “air can” needs to be relubed every 20 hours, just like a fork. its a good idea to replace those foam blocks every other time. also, i’ve had good luck with the fox gold bath oil. sticky and viscous.
I recently went to my local Trek (“flagship”) store with my supercaliber and asked if I can get an appointment for the shock service and was a bit shocked to be told that they cannot offer any shock service in their workshop, or in the two other shops they have in the city. They said they can offer me to service anything else but the shocks. 
Funny thing is they sell the supercaliber in their store which they apparently cannot service.
Oh well, so I went ahead bought me a seal replacement kit as well as oil for the rear shock and the tools for the replacement of the rubber seals, so I can do it myself. My bike has about 100h now, mostly good weather, so I think I don’t really need to replace the rubber seals yet. I would like to refresh the oil though. Can anyone tell me if I can clean and reuse the foam sponges inside? (It was kinda hard to get the seal kit where I live and I don’t think Trek sells the sponges separately).
Or is it not a good idea and I should go ahead and replace the rubber seals and the foam elements together?
What is your procedure for this? I think this is what I am looking to do?
May be a new deal to Trek owners, but this has been the norm for Specialized and the Brain shocks on Epics for as long as I can remember (still the case today AFAIK). The Brain shocks must be sent to a specific shop for the full maintenance option.
Wouldn’t surprise me if Trek is using a similar approach of having to some or all shops send these to a dedicated location for service. That or perhaps some local shops may need additional training to do them. I have not dug into it to know what is the case here.
Yeah, he meant something like Trek doesn’t want them to mess with the shocks and they typically send everything to Fox for service. And that their mechanics have gotten some training but not sure if they got the tools yet.
But I didn’t really need a complete rebuild of my shocks, just the small service, which is pretty straightforward (at least according to the service manual).
I don’t quite get what you want to do with the glue gun?
I think that foam in in there for oil anti slosh. The very quickest of google searches reveals…
https://retailerassetsprd.blob.core.windows.net/techassets/quickRef_2020_Supercaliber.pdf?sv=2018-03-28&ss=bfqt&srt=sco&sp=r&se=2062-03-20T02:32:45Z&st=2019-03-19T18:32:45Z&spr=https&sig=UogJIteiFltPX66np2M0a3esSu1uZzABYHTFInUlT%2Fo%3D
I only see the Rods/Shafts being SuperCal-specific and those are shared with other Trek models. Most of the seals being off the shelf.
I don’t think it’s supposed to be gluded in place and there’s probably a coating on there that will prevent the glue from sticking (if you didn’t remove it already with heat/cleaner).
no trek store will service the DAMPER inside the shock, but any competent mechanic should be able to do an air can service, which just consists of new bath oil, grease, and maybe seals & foam.
for procedure, start here: https://trek.scene7.com/is/content/TrekBicycleProducts/Asset%20Library/documents/Manuals/pdf/TK19_2020_Supercaliber_Service_Manual_USEN_WEB.pdf
after completely soaking the foam blocks AND foam rings at both ends of the carrier (the outer wiper seals…just like a fork), i then inject about 5cc of bath oil just into that chamber between the outer stanchion and the carrier. that’s all you really have to do. besides a tiny amount of bath oil INSIDE the stanchion in the positive chamber of the shock itself around the air sealhead.
if you cant move the strut in the bushings by hand with any more than very minor twisting, your bushings are too tight, and you’re losing performance and putting unnecessary stress on your flex stays.
another thing, if you don’t keep oil on the damper shaft itself at the damper sealhead, (inside the strut), the damper shaft will prematurely wear and it’s ~$200 USD in parts & labor to replace the head and shaft.
Thank you, I was actually a bit unsure if I should already replace the wiper seals as well, but I suppose after two years and 100h of riding it won’t be a bad idea to do so, even if they still look well.
i would yes. there’s a special driver tool you need from Trek to get them in.
Yes, I‘ve got this already. Thanks for the tips! 
Next rainy day I have some time off I‘ll get right on it!
i think it is a critical flaw, because this polyurethane foam shouldn’t drop into shock. how can I determinate that my bushing has sized properly? I can move the strut in the bushings easy. i think the foam is a reason. what should I do with the damage shock? they are so critical?
my friend, I thought too like you. My bike has a mileage of less than 100 hours… it easy, follow the instructions and make service your IsoStrut shock. I hope you have a torque wrench.
You can clean and reuse the foam sponges inside. I used dishwashing liquid. So here’s what happened at the end.
