XDR on Alex Rims QR 135

Hey everyone I recently got a 2016 Blue Norcorss AL CX bike. It is mostly going to live on the trainer but I’d like to set it up as a gravel bike to use when I can. The bike is currently a 2x10 Sram Rival hydro. So I’m looking to upgrade it to an 1x11 or 1x12 Sram.

It currently has QR 135 rear spacing on AClass wheels and hubs. The hub is a HG 3 pawl style. Does anyone know if the hub will accept an XDR driver or as is accept a Sram 11s cassette?

I have purchased a used Rival 12s crank with a PM since it was a good deal. So at the worst case I run that as a 2x10 or 1x10 with the benefit of a PM.

Thanks for reading.

I’m actually converting my cross/gravel bike back to 2x. With 11 speed 1x I just don’t get enough gearing on both ends of the spectrum. It’s fine when it’s pure gravel riding in a flatish area but not optimal when it’s mixed road/gravel or when it’s hilly.

I could put the XD driver on my hub and either buy all 12 speed stuff ($$$$$). Or use a Sunrace 10-42 11 speed cassette to get that 10 toothed cog.

Anyway adding a couple chainrings, a front derailleur and one front shifter will be a lot cheaper than the first option and give me better range than the second option for my type of riding.

Food for thought…

Believe me, I like 1x but I’ve ran all the numbers (gear inches and money) and 2x seems to be the best answer.

That’s a good point and I might just save funds and keep it a 2x10 just with the new Rival crank.

I just really like 1x since I ride/race XC 90% of the time. For now I just would like to know if it’s possible. My hopes are to eventually go to the Sram Rival Explorer 1x12.

If not then I can settle for a 1x11 and still use axs just limit it to 11.

Like I said, I like my 1x setup. I have one of those X-sync 1x chainrings and I’ve never ever had the front derail or have the chain suck.

Still, every time I’m on tarmac with this bike I’m annoyed by not enough big gear for down hills and the large jumps between cogs. We also moved to a hillier area and I need more climbing gear.

Personally, I’d go the cheapest route as I wouldn’t want to put $$$ into an older bike. If you get into gravel more, you’ll probably want real gravel geometry over cross geometry, thru axles and all the modern bells and whistles.

I know you said 11 speed, but here are my numbers with SRAM 12-speed and swapping

Same top-end gearing for downhill:

90rpm cadence speed at smallest gear speed at tallest gear
Tarmac 46x33 with road 10-36 cassette 6.7mph 33.5mph
Tarmac 46 (or 46x33) with Eagle 10-52 cassette 6.4mph 33.5mph

and a little more low range gearing at my more typical steep climb low cadence

65rpm cadence speed at smallest gear
Tarmac 46x33 with road 10-36 cassette 4.8mph
Tarmac 46T (or 46x33) with Eagle 10-52 cassette 4.6mph

At those speeds the Eagle cassette is about +2rpm at a given speed.

Pretty easy if I leave the crank alone and ignore front derailleur while riding:

  • either move gravel low-profile wheel to Tarmac, or swap cassettes
  • remove rear derailleur & chain from gravel bike and put on Tarmac

Yes have to back out the OCD in me and wanting to upgrade it everything and just leave it for the trainer only. Cheaper and less stress to keep it as is exempt for the PM crank I got in case I do ride it outside.

The hub is probably a formula hub. You’re likely going to end up kissing a few frogs to get the right freehub body. Can you get a picture of the pawls on the current one? This one bike work Specialized Formula Sealed Cartridge Freehub Body (Black) (SRAM XDR) - Performance Bicycle

It might sense just to get a new wheelset.

I think that is it. Looks like it haha but it also has rh threaded end cap that goes on the 10mm axle. It’s hard to tell if this is for a QR hub or thru axle. Let me see if I can get you a picture of it.

Going 12 speed with a 10 toothed cog opens up a lot of possibilities but it’s the most expensive option since I need all new everything.

Currently, I have a 44x11 as my biggest gear. It’s ok and I could live with it if that were the only issue but I want more climbing gears. If I make the 44 smaller, I lose more and more top end speed.

The max cassette for my long cage rear deraileur is 42.

Going 2X is essentially the most economical by a long shot and provides more range and a tighter cassette.

What’s the inside of the freehub bearing size on the pawl side? should be 15 or 17mm. Are there any numbers on the freehub body?

I measured the ID where the pawls are that mate to the hub body at 18.3mm.

So there aren’t 1million different 3pawl shimano freehub bodies, you can use another hub’s freehub body if they are designed to.

This one has those three circumference lines

It look kinda like this one - Novatec A-type