Front hub, for sure, as mostly you could replace the bearings. The really bad ones could be like this, but that’s about it. Flange failures seem pretty rare these days. I actually have a Stans NoTubes Neo boost hub on a wheel, and it uses common bearings and the Torque Caps were $20 rather than $43 for DT ones, so it’s fine. Those hubs are new for $20-40 on eBay pretty often (DT equivalent is $50-75 on eBay new).
Rear though, freehub designs on some hubs do seem to just be poor (Stans Neo etc). So worst case you have failure and can’t get a replacement (so you’re up for new hub, wheel build, maybe spokes). Best case you have a failure and a new free hub is $30 or $40, but may have to come from China. Even better case is that it’s a DT star ratchet knock off and fits genuine DT Swiss freehubs.
I purchased a used DT350 boost rear hub for $50 on eBay recently. Typically they go for more around the $100 mark. If one thing goes wrong on a cheaper hub, then you end up financially worse (replacement free hub, having to buy new bearings or get it fixed if you don’t have the tools). If nothing goes wrong and you never sell the wheels, then you’ll have saved money.
Cheap hubs - probably okay, heavier, just fingers crossed that you don’t have failures of bearings or free hubs that eat up all you savings.
Mid range hubs - DT350’s are awesome and I’d say anyone building wheels should at the very least price them up to make sure they’re not being ignored because you’re worried they’re too expensive, when in fact they’re cheap (eBay used mostly for me, although some eBay new ones too).
Hight end - I’ve had five sets of Chris King hubs over the years. I went away from CK because they’re never DT 350 cheap (even used), and axles and free hubs are just so expensive compared to DT when you want to upgrade as standards change.