It does but see how the paddle curve right where you reach for the brakes? It adds more reach whereas a flat design keeps it closer when adjusted. I tend to grab the brakes near bottom
Also not sure if the hood design added to the reach. The 2nd Force seemed a bit shorter than the 1st and again to me, that’s the best hood design ever (at least IMO). It’s easy to grab onto on the hoods and the ergonomics on the drops is perfect for me
Maybe I’ll see one in person and ask a shop to adjust So I can try. I’ve used the 1st and 2nd iteration of Force so Red D1 design is very familiar to me
*and hey, cost wise it made all the sense in the world. Got it on clear out (!) was going with Shimano but I can’t get over the wires and the battery situation
Counterpoint - use the extra reach to offset going to a narrower HB. I went from a 40cm HB to a 38 and my reach is essentially the same. But with the increased reach of the shifters and the overall shape, I can now just sit in an on-the-hoods aero position all day.
if my math is correct, going to a 38cm handlebar isn’t affecting the reach anywhere near 7-9mm (reach increase E1 vs D1). You could do both, shorter stem and narrower bars.
Your post is more of a validation that the E1 shifters might have hidden costs not obvious to the potential buyer. Even worse if you have an integrated cockpit…
I’ll have to search for it but there is at least one YouTube vid that says the reach is virtually unchanged once mounted. I am making no claim one way or another but do find it interesting. Does seem as though the reach would almost certainly have to be greater if the physical dimension is longer.
I have both shifters mounted to different bikes. I’ll snap some pics once I’m home. The E1 is certainly longer than the D1. I have large hands and can now fit all fingers between lever and bar wheras with the D1 it was only middle and ring finger.
It‘s kind of difficult to photograph it properly and I might retract my statement regarding reach… they might be not that far off. The lever design of the E1 allows for more room but seems to be similar in length position-wise.
2019 Trek Madone SLR Red AXS. My rear derailleur has been acting up, disconnecting, and showing low battery ever though the front derailleur says both batteries are full. With it being out of warranty, I’m afraid I might need a new one, which is annoying and painful. D1 rear derailleur are more competitive in price, but is the E1 rear derailleur that much better? Should I upgrade to E1, or save $100 and buy a replacement D1 rear derailleur. I’m not replacing the shifters, just the rear mech.
I think if you do not plan to upgrade your shifters then any advantages in performance with the rear derailleur won’t be realized. It is lighter but that does nothing for gear changes. Possibly even better and cheaper, consider a Force D1 unit if you don’t mind the mismatch. When I did the upgrade I only did shifters and brakes continuing to use my old D1 RD and o cannot say o have at any point thought about changing derailleurs. Good luck.
This would be my no.1 reason to upgrade in the future. I have also had major fights with pad clearance on D1 Rival calipers. I’d love to know if the E1 versions make a big difference.
E1 brakes are better in every regard. Pad standoff is a little better but you can still have some of the same clearance battles with new pads. Getting the pistons pushed back completely is key to preventing pad rub. They have been great. Modulation is not terribly different but braking power is on a whole different level. Absolutely worth the upgrade.
+1 on dramatic brake improvements going from d1 to e1. And you get that at the rival level. Force gives you the bonus buttons and red provides bling factor. Weight difference between force and red is basically nothing on shifters/brakes, it’s mostly in the crank and cassette. Not sure about rd weights, but I’d bet it’s not much and I don’t remember any big changes d1 to e1 on rd (besides the xplr stuff w 13 speed).
