Here is some video. I think it would be better if I do it on the trainer though. This is just kind of peddling not at any significant power.
The hand issue is gone and my back has been a lot better. The only thing is when I really try get aero and sit further back and roll the pelvis forward my left knee can get a bit niggly like it used to when the seat was too high - might be because the power saddle really rises up at the back and raises my effective seat height.
Power is good and I definitely am using glutes more now as my quads seem less tired and I can feel the glutes working. Endurance is way better and feel fresher when I stand up.
This could be a simple question. I ride a small Look Huez RS 785. At this time, Iām riding it with full set of spacers under the stem. My other bike is a Cinelli Pressure with about 15mm under the stem (much more aggressive). While I understand that the Huez isnāt an aggressive race bike, Iād like to remove 15-20mm. It is quite comfortable now. The question: Is there a rule of thumb whereby if you remove 20mm of spacers under the stem, you must change the position of the seat by so many mm? One would think that moving the handlebars down, it would increase the reach needed. Thanks
Iām not sure of the year of your bike so I just grabbed a random geo chart for an RS 785. Head tube angle is 71.3 from this chart - so if you go down 20mm the bars will end up 6.7mm further forward.
Thanks! In my head, if there was a formula, Iād feel confident that if I moved the seat forward XX mm then all would be fine. If I experiment, I question EVERYTHING.
You can try just moving the seat forward by that amount, but keep in mind the bars have also moved down by 20mm, and your arms do some sort of diagonal reach.
Also, moving the seat forward changes the position of your hip/legs to the bottom bracket, and your centre of gravity. All of this may or may not make a difference to you, but just wanted to mention it.
Iām planning to buy a new climbing-oriented road bike for when Iām in Europe (normally in the US, except Christmas break and summer) and want to make sure I can achieve a fit close to what my fitter recommended. My current bike is a Canyon Endurace S with a 110 mm stem, which I like in terms of horizontal reach. My fitter recommended a stack of 560-570 mm and a reach of 375-380 mm (ideally with a top tube of 535 mm).
Iām considering the BMC TimeMachine in size 54, which has: Stack: 550 Reach: 386 mm TT: 549 mm Stem: 100 mm
The horizontal length seems comparable (533+110 vs. 550+100). Stack-wise, my plan would be to raise the stem with a 10mm spacer to bring it from 550 stack to the recommended 560 (according to the TM manual, stack height can varied between +15 (lowest) to +60 (highest).
Does this sound reasonable/feasible from a bike-fitting perspective?
Has anyone been to an idmatch studio? What was your experience? Would you recommend it?
There are very few here in the US, but I have the opportunity to visit one in January when I am seeing my folks in the UK.
I like the idea of being fitted using a dynamic jig that doesnāt require your existing bike. As I look into 2026 and possibly buying a new bike, it would be great to know the right size based on my physiology, and not on the random sizing charts that manufacturers provide. Going to a local professional bike fitter requires that you already own the bike.
Many bikefitters will disregard your old bike, specifically ask them to. ask for a ground up fit. You donāt need the fit-by-numbers/angles of a computer to do it.
Most of the nuances of fit arenāt from your side on profile, its the twists and shifts between left and right.
Having a ground up fit still requires that you buy the new bike before getting the fit. What I am interested in is knowing the right size/fit/geo of bike(s) that I should be looking at, and being about to purchase knowing it will be a good fit.
My understanding from seeing the idmatch system is that they have a database of bikes and can say to you these bikes are the right size/geo for your body and riding. So you can then go out and purchase a new bike with that info and can then fit it yourself with all the specs you have from the database and your fit.
@mikethg, why does a ground-up fit require you to have a bike? I use a fitting jig to find the best position for a rider, irrespective of their current bike. When weāve arrived at the final position, I use the new measurements to see whether or not we can adjust the old bike if theyāve brought it with them. That way, any compromises are understood.
The new position measurements can also be used to specify a new bike. I use this great site, https://xybikecalc.com/, to help the rider match their position to the bike.
I canāt comment on the idmatch studio per se. What I would say though, is that if the āoperatorā of whichever system is being used doesnāt have good bike fitting experience, they may just finish the fitting session when all the lights go green. What if youāre not comfortable at the end but the computer says the position is great?
Iām curious to know if you asked this question of your fitter? Theyāre probably best placed to answer it, given assumptions theyāve made on spacers under the bar, BRP, bar extension etc.
You could use the https://xybikecalc.com/ to compare your current Canyon (assuming that this is the target position) to the BMC and see what the difference actually is.
I have, but I havenāt received a response yet.
On the other hand, I asked to the shop who will be selling it, and they donāt think it will be a problem. Rationally, I agree: I have a 10-20mm gap to compensate. According to the bicycle manual the spacers can be set as low as 15 and as high as 60. Seems to me like thereās quite a bit of wiggle room.
Very true. I guess I havenāt seen any local fitters with jigs. I have had couple of Retul fits over the past ~8 years, and always been fitted to my current bike. Iām not aware of any local to us that use a jig, they all have a kickr and you bring your bike. Iām sure with some research I could find one. My main reason for asking was because I will be 10mins from an idmatch fitter when I visit my folks in January.
How would one approach altering their regular bike fit to something focused on upright hands free riding? Have a 4 hour trainer ride coming up and might as well get some video game time in.
