Hey everyone,
I had a bike fit done in 2023 on my Crux (size 54), and the setup has worked really well — I can ride 300+ km without any pain. The position is dialed in, as shown in the pics I’ve attached.
I just picked up a Tarmac SL8 (also size 54) with a 110/380 integrated roval rapid cockpit and figured I could carry over the same fit 1:1 — especially saddle position and reach to the hoods — but it doesn’t work at all. Something’s off both in the front and back.
I also changed the crank size from 165 to 155. So i will add 10mm to the saddle hight.
Has anyone gone through a similar Crux-to-Tarmac transition? Any tips on how to translate fit dimensions between the two frames?
What exactly is off? Are the bikes being ridden on the same type of ride?
The Tarmac is slightly shorter and lower and steeper but so maybe you need the 120 stem and some spacers.
However I think you’ll see short crank fit advice transitioning more to moving the saddle back instead of up, and this would also better match the change in stack and reach. So I’d try moving your saddle down and back to see if that feels better.
Bit of an odd foot/shoe thing that only occurs when descending twisty/fast/steep things that get me worried and gripping/tense feet.
My left foot (never happens on the right one) will cramp up in a “claw” shape.
I’m trying to investigate what causes it (excluding my descending skills or lack thereof). I’ve got the flatest of flat feet (uni friends described them as pasty shaped), run normal width Ultegra spd-spl on 172.5 105 cranks, wear 6 year old Pearl Izumi shoes. Not had it happen on the MTB (xt trail pedals and 165mm m8000 xt cranks) or the gravy bike (xt trail pedals and 170mm GRX cranks) both other bikes are some budget Giro shoes.
Not sure if it’s Q factor, length or shoes but tips/advice welcome.
Ball of the foot is the furthest forward I would ever put a cleat and only then, for people who have tested it and still prefer it and have a reason (sprint, short race, spectacular foot and lower leg control).
Sounds like you need your cleats further back. Old shoes were rubbish for this. Get a modern pair that fit well (Lake have loads of shapes, I also quite like Specialized and even newer models of Fizik are much improved). Also add insoles and that should go someway to helping the issue. Anything further will either warrant a bike fit or you going on https://form-bikefitting.com/ and doing some experimentation.
What interaction, if any, does cleat position have with glute med aching or ‘pain’?
My saddle height is fine on all my bikes but I seem to get glute med ache after about 2hrs on my left side. I don’t want to keep changing my saddle heights so I was going to do a small experiment with my cleats. It seems also like my knee flicks out at the top of my pedal stroke on the affected side. I was thinking of nudging cleats so my heels are out a smidge more.
You can go to a specific bike fitter, that just sells fits, Ideally one which does bike fits off of a purpose built jig, which has all the adjustments you could ever want (Retul, etc).
You’re paying for the dimensions of where the bars, saddle should be, as well as setting up your shoes/cleats. The measurements are in relation to the bottom bracket, so should be able to be transferred regardless of the bike. Do not buy a bike just for the complementary bikefit, and then return the bike. You won’t get a good fit like that.
The output of a bikefit is usually a document with those dimensions, this is used to set up whatever bike you do buy.
Often a bikefitter would be able to recommend a bike frame that meets your fit requirements, then you can spec a frame that fits you well, the extensions and position of them, the stem, the saddle etc.
Saves you buying a prebuilt and just bodging it to make it work.
Hoping someone can help me out with my fit after a few changes. I was between M and L in a Lauf Seigla - went with a M with the intention of a longer stem. Got a pro bike fit, he added a 130 stem and my bike fitter said my seat was all the way back on the rails. Felt decent for a while but I got numb hands on my last 50+ mile ride. I know it’s a core strength thing too, but I feel a little cramped and might have been too far forward.
This photo I added a -20mm setback seatpost and I dropped the stem (unrelated to bike fit - just want a more aggressive position - my road bike (a Felt AR) already has a slammed stem). I know this will be a feel thing - but is this fit totally out of line? I am about 6’0" with relatively short legs for my height and a longer torso.
High five for another Felt AR owner. You don’t look relaxed in that pic, the neck being ‘crunched’ is the give away. If the fit is comfortable on that, compare the two with Bike Insights and adjust the Lauf accordingly.
I’m struggling with my own fits, so don’t have much official guidance, but i feel like you’re straddling an upright position and an aggressive one. Saddle cant come up more because you’d be extended the knee too much at the bottom of the stroke. The bars coming up and more bend in the elbows would probably get you lower than having the slammed bars with less bend. The numb hands suggest you’re putting too much weight on them (lack of core strength as you mentioned) but also just the general balance.
From the video it looks like you’re “reaching” across the bottom of the stroke even with the marshmallow shoes. Especially if you’re moving your seat back you might want to compensate by moving it down (which then could mean even more back).
Lumbar spine is a little round and getting you back flatter might help what looks like a kink in your neck. The question then is what’s making your pelvis roll back. Is it the saddle? Are you taking “sitting on your sitbones” too literally? Or has moving your saddle back closed your hips too much and you’re rolling your pelvis back to avoid impingement (which also correlates to high saddle)? What length cranks are you running?
I have a similar build (ape arms and slightly short femurs) and on stock bikes I’d max out on stems, then try to slam the seat back to make room, get too folded over so then would raise the saddle, then lose all stability getting overextended, which then means you have to scoot forwards whenever you want power.
I definitely have mobility issues, so that is probably why my pelvis is rolled back. I have a desk job and don’t do enough (any?) mobility work. I’d rather get a more aggressive fit and then HAVE to work on mobility than get a comfy fit. I don’t have any chronic issues limiting mobility, so really just need to work on it.
I’m running 172.5 cranks on my road and gravel, 170 on my MTB.
And I really thought I had a 130 stem, but turns out it’s 110. I’m wondering if there’s opportunity to go longer.
Hunching shoulders rising up towards my ears and numb hands (after a couple hours) would I be right in thinking potentially it’s the stem length/saddle to bar drop?
Seemed fine for shorter (sub 60km) and I’ve got a bend in arms in the pressing on position but after a while it’s a bit tingly. Have moved to a 10cm longer and bit higher stem recently so trying to identify if I go back to 100mm or the 100 -17° options.
Saddle is also pretty far forward so I suspect it’s the stem combined with where my CoG is.
Hello all, I am having an issue with numb fingers after long and steep descends and was wondering if the solution to this is to add a 5mm or more of spacers?
** Long version **
I live in the flatlands and have no problems with my fit when riding at home — i can hold aero hoods or drops for long periods without any real issues. I should add that I have quite short legs for my height so the saddle to bar drop is limited to 45mm.
However I. have noticed that when I am on a trip in the Alps, after each long steep descend I get numb fingers to the extent that I barely feel my fingers at all. It is worse in cold weather and a usually a bit more extreme on the left hand than the right.
My self-diagnosis is that it is due to blood circulation being cut off rather than a nerve issue: I can feel a lot of pressure where the bottom of my palm rests in the drops and the skin under my fingernails becomes blue. My guess is that the fact that the descend is steep already throws much weight on the hands and when breaking for the corners this becomes even much more.
And now to the question: do you think slightly increasing the height of the bars is likely to resolve the issue? If yes, how much should I try first? I don’t want to get too high since this will affect my fit in the flats where I think it’s very good. Perhaps a different bar-tape might also help? Any other ideas?
Not nervous and not knuckling the bars at all (I am cycling for 25 years already and when younger was even racing internationally – I consider myself a quite experienced descender).
My wrist is positioned with the palm rotated slightly inward so that the bottom part of the drop crosses the bottom part of my hand “diagonally” and it is exactly this position where I feel that there is a lot of pressure. I hope this makes sense – could try making a picture if needed. If it also helps the bars are enve aero 35/40s and in general I am very happy with them although I think the drops could be a bit narrower still without problems.
As I am writing this I am wondering whether this is part of the issue: If the bars were narrower at the drops I would probably not roll the palms inwards when in the drops and the pressure would more likely be more on the tissue between thumb and index finger, which sounds more reasonable (although I am also realising that I have no idea how I used to hold previous models of bars in the past).
I moved the saddle down another 5mm or so. Hand numbness gone. I am now at about 695mm BB to seat with 165mm cranks and 785mm inseam.
Still have some lingering back pain (physio just says QLs overworked) on and off the bike - its been around for almost 12 months but definitely better than when it was set off last year. Hoping the lowering helps and I can probably raise the handlebars a bit - I can do another 5mm up.
Is there any consensus on back angles? Getting back to road bike riding after predominantly being on Tri and gravel/xc MTB for last ten years. Using my velo fit and all in range other than a “low” back angle of 32 degrees. I had proper fits (retul) many years ago and don’t recall this even being a measurement?
