You don’t mention what you think or feel about the hand numbness from the bar height change?
Hi Chad
Hard to say yet as my hands are not totally settled. Probably slightly better. Definitely better from the internal rotation of the hoods - I find that when they are internally rotated I get no issues once I am off the bike (whereas if they point straight ahead I get strange nervey sensations off the bike). Will report back.
I’m overdue for a proper bike fit but trying to sort out some nagging foot discomfort at home on the trainer. I think my left foot is a few mm longer than the right but nothing drastic, but I suspect the arches are different or something else is going on.
I have my SPD cleats as far back as they’ll go on both shoes. The left cleat feels like it’s just behind the ball of my foot, while the right feels likes it’s back more almost like it’s under my arch a bit (probably because my right foot can slide forward a bit in the shoe).
I did a sweetspot workout today and my left quads were feeling it, but my right calf felt like it was doing all the work on that side. Per my Assiomas, I’m typically 53L/47R or so. I occassionally get discomfort in my right hamstring…not pain, and it doesn’t persist off the bike, but I’m aware of it often when riding.
What would you look to adjust here? I’m wondering if this is a shoe support issue (probably need good insoles anyway). I’ve had 2 bike fits but they were several years ago, and I wasn’t checked to see if I have a length discrepancy. Any tips are appreciated!
MyVeloFit Stem Calculator - this is a cool tool to help you understand the impact on bike bike (reach / drop) of switching between stems / switching to a new stem
That seems to be an integrated version of what I think is the “original” (shared elsewhere but I should add to the OP when I have time). It is handy and I use it for most of my ifts.
http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
@mcneese.chad yep that’s the OG I’ve been using it a long time!
I had a bike fit at a very well respected place recently but would love a second opinion (or 2). My left side is stronger (per Assiomas) and I’ve been having some hamstring discomfort on my right side.
The fitter did saddle pressure mapping and the left side pressure was way higher vs the right (this isn’t my pic but looks like just like what we were seeing). My hips aren’t symmetrical I guess but he seemed pretty sure there wasn’t a leg length discrepancy. We tried a bunch of saddles and ended up with the one I already had (none affected the pressure imbalance). He said it was like my right leg was reaching a bit more than the left and the right hip rocked a bit on the top of the pedal stroke, so he moved my right cleat forward to effectively make my right leg not have to reach quite as far. He also lowered the saddle maybe 5mm.
Is there anything else you’d try in this scenario? I still got some minor hamstring pain on my trainer ride today with the new fit so I’m wondering if I just need to give it more time (overall changes were minor) or if I should try something else.
Thanks!!
@FrankTuna how was it left after the fit? Was there a suggestion that there were other things the Fitter could try if you still had issues?
I know myself that available time is often the issue in a fit. If I can get the gross position sorted then after that it’s running tests with different setups such as length length shims, wedges, crank lengths, new shoes etc that may require another visit. Often it’s off-the-bike work such as working on flexibility and strength that is required too.
I think the first port of call is to speak with the Fitter again, I’m sure that they’d welcome the feedback.
I’ll do that for sure if things don’t feel better after a bit. I appreciate the time available is a concern and but I’m wondering if some stuff was missed due to time or would have been handled differently by a different fitter. I’ve had issues with my left foot too…he measured them, but didn’t really look at my feet or assess mobility. I told him I’ve tried a few insoles (off the shelf and G8) and he didn’t look at those to see if they were right. We ended up with the saddle down a few mm and maybe back a few mm, with a suggestion for a longer stem but it wasn’t replaced. Bars are in the same place.
There wasn’t really a suggestion of what do to next from a fit perspective, but I’m sure I could call. I drove 2 hrs each way based on really good reviews so I was hoping to avoid that again to be honest.
To be fair he did say you can’t solve everything with the fit and sometimes you need to do stretches/exercise/PT when your hips are a little wonky like mine. It’s nothing that’s ever affected me off the bike though.
Thanks!
I’m trying to figure out how to transfer my position to a new bike. If I have the geometry charts for the two bikes, how do I work this out? I know it’s not as simple as comparing stack and reach–that the seattube and headtube angles also play into this.
For instance, if my bike has 590 mm stack with a 73.5 degree headtube and I need 20 mm spacers, how many spacers do I need on a bike with 585 mm stack and a 73.2 degree heatube? Still 20 mm?
No, stack and reach is independent of HT and ST angles. That is the point of the measurement. In addition to the S&R for the frame, take the S&R for the HB.
However, in your example above, I would guess you are splitting too fine of a hair, but you can use the tool below.
I’ve been having trouble clipping in with my shoes including SPD-SL spacers post bike fit. I bought another set to set up my second pair of shoes and noticed the Shimano SM-SH20 spacers are different! Has anyone run into this?
The middle spacer in the pic more closely matches the shape of the cleat. I think the edge of the longer one was hitting my cleat so my foot thought that was where it was supposed to engage, so I had to fumble a few times before it clipped in.
Am I going nuts? Has anyone noticed this before? Any way to ensure I get the shorter spacers if I have to reorder (seem to be the same part number)?
The shorter ones look like Keo spacers. The only difference between SPD-SL spacers, or at least the ones I have had, just depends on which way you have them up theres a thick side and a thin side. A thick to thin gives you a level spacers and thin to thin introduces a angle.
There’s counterfeits of pretty much all Shimano products. Most likely the Amazon ones are sold in both SPD-SL and Look Keo or Time versions. They could use the same mold and swap an insert to change out the text portion on the flat.
I don’t know for sure, that’s a guess.
The length isn’t the issue. I actually find it harder to click in with shorter shims. My favourite brand (after using all of these) is Form. They pin together and are long at the front so it feels like your are clicking in normally in relation to cleat to sole.
Thank you for this tip! Just ordered some 
Does anyone ever feel like one foot is trying to pull up off the sole of the shoe when pedaling? Typically on the upstroke, almost like it’s becoming disconnected,
Hi Chad,
I changed my saddle tilt from -2.6 degrees to -2 degrees (measured with book over saddle, s works power, so the front part ever so slightly goes up a bit). This has helped but not solved and stopped/reduced saddle sores from long rides. I am now going to try increasing the stack height - I believe I have 10mm to play with going up, would you go up 5mm at a time or just do the whole 10mm?