That is a good plan, I am still suspicious of seat height currently bordering on too high fwiw.
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Can a saddle become not a good fit? Iām riding a Power Mirror 143, and itās been great for the past 2 years or so (forget when I bought it). Loved it so much I bought the Ti rail version for my CX/gravel bike. I mounted this version on my Zwift Ride but Iām having issues with rubbing/chafing. Itās right in the buttock cleft on the inner part of my legs. Almost like the saddle is too wide. I have an Abbey Tools saddle kit thing and got the saddle exactly matched to my road setup (setback, tilt, height). But after todayās ride, my nether regions are so raw and painful. I know indoor riding is not easy but I used this saddle all last year without issue. I havenāt gained any weight. I just donāt know what else could be causing this new issue. Itās like my butt no longer agrees with this saddle.
Just because your saddle is set up the same, is the rest of the bike? Particular, handlebar drop. In my experience, if I have more of a drop to my handlebars, I need to angle the seat down a fair amount more. Are your cranks the same length on all bikes?
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Cranks are the same across all my bikes (170mm). Zwift ride is more upright if anything. Iām wondering if outside with more saddle to bar drop, I naturally scoot forward on the saddle to a narrower section. Whereas indoors, Iām sitting more upright and further rearward. So maybe I was compensating for a too wide saddle outside without knowing.
Any kind of trainer motion or routine standing to break up your saddle pressure inside?
I wouldnāt give up on it for sure. So far you just know that set up exactly the same as your outdoor bike doesnāt work. Iād mess with the fore/aft position as well as the angle. Always remember the starting point so you can go back to it. Only make one change at a time, and make the changes small.
As Chad alluded to, if thereās no motion on your trainer, itās very hard to be comfortably for a long indoor ride in comparison to outdoor rides. About 90-120 on the trainer and my butt had had enough, on the same bike that I use outdoor for 4-5 hr rides. Iāll be changing the trainer setup soon to allow more movement.
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Hi all,
I moved my seat down about 3mm, increased handlebar height 1cm and turned my hoods in a bit.
So currently 2mm lower and a 4mm further back compared to my bike fit. Definitely my knees actually feel even better although feel slightly more cramped at the knee (not painful just a different feeling) at top of pedal stroke. Hands slightly better - will see if it settles more as I get used to the slight adjustment.
Some videos below. I think in a few weeks if all well might try another 3mm back and 1mm down (in discussion with my fitter who is ok with the approach).
You donāt mention what you think or feel about the hand numbness from the bar height change?
Hi Chad
Hard to say yet as my hands are not totally settled. Probably slightly better. Definitely better from the internal rotation of the hoods - I find that when they are internally rotated I get no issues once I am off the bike (whereas if they point straight ahead I get strange nervey sensations off the bike). Will report back.
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Iām overdue for a proper bike fit but trying to sort out some nagging foot discomfort at home on the trainer. I think my left foot is a few mm longer than the right but nothing drastic, but I suspect the arches are different or something else is going on.
I have my SPD cleats as far back as theyāll go on both shoes. The left cleat feels like itās just behind the ball of my foot, while the right feels likes itās back more almost like itās under my arch a bit (probably because my right foot can slide forward a bit in the shoe).
I did a sweetspot workout today and my left quads were feeling it, but my right calf felt like it was doing all the work on that side. Per my Assiomas, Iām typically 53L/47R or so. I occassionally get discomfort in my right hamstringā¦not pain, and it doesnāt persist off the bike, but Iām aware of it often when riding.
What would you look to adjust here? Iām wondering if this is a shoe support issue (probably need good insoles anyway). Iāve had 2 bike fits but they were several years ago, and I wasnāt checked to see if I have a length discrepancy. Any tips are appreciated!
MyVeloFit Stem Calculator - this is a cool tool to help you understand the impact on bike bike (reach / drop) of switching between stems / switching to a new stem
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That seems to be an integrated version of what I think is the āoriginalā (shared elsewhere but I should add to the OP when I have time). It is handy and I use it for most of my ifts.
http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
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@mcneese.chad yep thatās the OG Iāve been using it a long time!
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I had a bike fit at a very well respected place recently but would love a second opinion (or 2). My left side is stronger (per Assiomas) and Iāve been having some hamstring discomfort on my right side.
The fitter did saddle pressure mapping and the left side pressure was way higher vs the right (this isnāt my pic but looks like just like what we were seeing). My hips arenāt symmetrical I guess but he seemed pretty sure there wasnāt a leg length discrepancy. We tried a bunch of saddles and ended up with the one I already had (none affected the pressure imbalance). He said it was like my right leg was reaching a bit more than the left and the right hip rocked a bit on the top of the pedal stroke, so he moved my right cleat forward to effectively make my right leg not have to reach quite as far. He also lowered the saddle maybe 5mm.
Is there anything else youād try in this scenario? I still got some minor hamstring pain on my trainer ride today with the new fit so Iām wondering if I just need to give it more time (overall changes were minor) or if I should try something else.
Thanks!!
@FrankTuna how was it left after the fit? Was there a suggestion that there were other things the Fitter could try if you still had issues?
I know myself that available time is often the issue in a fit. If I can get the gross position sorted then after that itās running tests with different setups such as length length shims, wedges, crank lengths, new shoes etc that may require another visit. Often itās off-the-bike work such as working on flexibility and strength that is required too.
I think the first port of call is to speak with the Fitter again, Iām sure that theyād welcome the feedback.
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Iāll do that for sure if things donāt feel better after a bit. I appreciate the time available is a concern and but Iām wondering if some stuff was missed due to time or would have been handled differently by a different fitter. Iāve had issues with my left foot tooā¦he measured them, but didnāt really look at my feet or assess mobility. I told him Iāve tried a few insoles (off the shelf and G8) and he didnāt look at those to see if they were right. We ended up with the saddle down a few mm and maybe back a few mm, with a suggestion for a longer stem but it wasnāt replaced. Bars are in the same place.
There wasnāt really a suggestion of what do to next from a fit perspective, but Iām sure I could call. I drove 2 hrs each way based on really good reviews so I was hoping to avoid that again to be honest.
To be fair he did say you canāt solve everything with the fit and sometimes you need to do stretches/exercise/PT when your hips are a little wonky like mine. Itās nothing thatās ever affected me off the bike though.
Thanks!
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Iām trying to figure out how to transfer my position to a new bike. If I have the geometry charts for the two bikes, how do I work this out? I know itās not as simple as comparing stack and reachāthat the seattube and headtube angles also play into this.
For instance, if my bike has 590 mm stack with a 73.5 degree headtube and I need 20 mm spacers, how many spacers do I need on a bike with 585 mm stack and a 73.2 degree heatube? Still 20 mm?
No, stack and reach is independent of HT and ST angles. That is the point of the measurement. In addition to the S&R for the frame, take the S&R for the HB.
However, in your example above, I would guess you are splitting too fine of a hair, but you can use the tool below.
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Iāve been having trouble clipping in with my shoes including SPD-SL spacers post bike fit. I bought another set to set up my second pair of shoes and noticed the Shimano SM-SH20 spacers are different! Has anyone run into this?
The middle spacer in the pic more closely matches the shape of the cleat. I think the edge of the longer one was hitting my cleat so my foot thought that was where it was supposed to engage, so I had to fumble a few times before it clipped in.
Am I going nuts? Has anyone noticed this before? Any way to ensure I get the shorter spacers if I have to reorder (seem to be the same part number)?
