I’d suggest the full 10mm only because it should show if there is any real impact to the many potential outcomes. You can always split the difference going back if it feels too tall.
I’ve been going crazy trying to figure out my bike fit! I had a thread recently about have 2 fits and being super confused. The bike as it stands now is where it was after the latest fit.
The first fitter said longer stem and seatpost 25mm below where it is in the video. The second fitter wants me to come back for a 0 offset seat post and possibly a shorter stem.
I found a killer deal on 170mm cranks so I’m trying them for now since I have a bit of hip impingement on the right side any carry my excess weight around my torso (working on that!!)
MyVeloFit says my seat has to come up more. The trend among bike fit YouTube videos and Reddit (if you dare) seems to be telling people their seats are too high 
I’m 6’5" with a dad bod so be gentle 
Any thoughts on seat height/reach? I appreciate you! 
Absolutely agree that you saddle is too low….that was my initial reaction just looking at the static image in your video and was only confirmed when I played the video.
Thanks for taking a look! It seems OK for a few hours on the trainer but I haven’t had a chance to get a long outdoor ride in yet.
I had been having some minor right medial knee discomfort with the saddle a bit lower and I chalked that up to my right foot toeing out like 20° when I walk so cleat positioning has been tricky. It feels better with the seat higher.
I’ll bring the saddle up a bit tomorrow and see how it feels.
A rule of thumb guide/ starting point to saddle height is ‘heel on the pedal’. With your heel on pedal your leg should be nearly straight.
This video explains the issues from a saddle to low or too high well!
Has anyone used these kind of adaptors to test out longer pedal axles?
Only seems Shimano do ultegras ones. (SPD SL for my road bike)I don’t mind shelling out if I like them but thought these, if safe/recommended, might be a good stop gap.
I use SPD pedals as well which I know have longer axles but I need to go even longer, for my gravel bike.
(Had a bike fit).
You want steel ones. Alloy will snap.
Some of them can be a big jump in terms of increasing the spacing, i.e. too much and as @Alexander_Hardy has also mentioned there have been failures, I wouldn’t buy cheap.
As you say, Shimano pedals do an extra 4mm. You can gain 1.5-2mm using a pedal spacer washer. SQLab have a set of pedals with varying axle lengths.
If you need something for the SPD SL route have you looked at the Form extender plates?
Thanks. I’ll check these out!
Extender plates, washers and extended axle is definitely the better way of doing it as Foxyscott mentioned!
I have only bike fitted one person that needed pedal extenders and they were severely restricted in the hips and overall function (so much that I recommended a MTB with slicks and short cranks to get started on their exercise routine and worry about road bikes later).
Yet both Bikefit James and Neil at RCA Cycling both mention that majority of the people need a wide stance/q-factor.
If you’re also looking for a reason to get a power meter, assioma with the pod increase Q factor a fair bit as well. I notice between my pedals but not enough that I think it matters much.
Frank - your seat is not too low. It looks awesome. Stop worrying about the bike fit geometry.. its all about your nervous system anyways. Is your hamstring engaged through the bottom of the stroke? that is neurological. I have gone through this maybe 300 times in the past 20 years. Bike fit is not a magic bullet, it just needs to be good enough. Stop worrying about your fit (angles), it looks great enough to me. Spend more time worrying about your foot stability - that is where it all starts. Then spend even more time worrying about your hips and rib cage, then shoulder/neck mobility. Try some neuro work from Kruse Elite on youtube. Work on yourself, dont blame the bike 
What is the consensus on medial knee pain? I’ve read that having too a wide and too narrow stance width is the reason.
Does anyone have tricks for replicating a fit for a new build? I’m planning to build up an SL8 and want to replicate the fit I have with my Ultimate, but it’s not perfectly straight forward. E.g., it looks like the minimum stack for the SL8 is 5mm higher than my slammed Ultimate. Do I just go “close enough” and continue to match everything else as best I can, or is that stack going to throw off xyz other things? (I test rode one, and loved the handling, but with the long cranks, millions of spacers, and wide bars, the fit felt entirely alien and now I’m questioning everything.)
I’m going to pay for a fit to second guess everything before I pay for the crazy-expensive parts.. but my fitter is slow getting back to me and I’m antsy.
Have been experiencing some wrist pain that I think is largely unrelated to the cycling. That being said, some hard impacts during grave rides/races have definitely tweaked it some and certainly not helping.
My bike is currently fitted with a 100mm stem. During my initial fit post purchase, while the fit overall felt amazing, I did feel like the stem was a tad long. I wouldn’t contribute it to the stem, but really because the new SRAM RED hoods seems a bit longer than most other hoods. My ENVE stem is painted to match the bike, and not cheap even without paint, so I haven’t been jumping at the chance to replace it.
With the wrist pain issues and just in general, I’ve been looking at the redshift stems. In both a forum search and online, the reviews seem overwhelmingly positive, plus a 90 day risk free return policy for non-satisfied customers.
While I’m ready to pull the trigger, now I have to make the decision between using the same stem length I currently have (100mm) or using this chance to drop to a 90mm stem. I don’t think that the return policy is intended for fit, but moreso unsatisfied customers.
Looking for any further input regarding fit - does it seem reasonable to drop down to a 90mm stem, or should I keep it at 100mm? My elbows do get a bit close to my knees when on the clip on aero bars, however based on the position the pads are also pretty high up on my forearms. I think if I brought the stem 10mm in my aero bar position would stay the same, but the pads would just sit I moreso under my elbows.
Here’s a couple photos:
Quick skim but I agree the reach could be a tad long with the 100. Top pic with your shoulders edging forwards couple with mostly straight arms on hoods seems a bit long to me. So I think a 90mm might be the way I’d go.
Sort of alternately, you could flip the stem to a positive angle… gasp, which will increase height (assuming not change to spacers AND shorten reach a tad). Not able to access my typical calculator, but the reach would come about around 5mm IIRC. And if the height is too up for you, just swap some spacers to get down while you keep most of that shorter reach (could lose around 1-2mm from lower spacers).
Agreed w/ Chad here…my initial reaction was the same based on your arm extension.
Funny you mention that, I actually plugged my geometry into a calculator that was posted on this site a few weeks back to see about flipping the stem and how much of an impact it would have. Definitely an option, and the difference you mentioned was somewhere around what the calculator came out to, a bit less than I expected.
Will mull it over a bit more. Since that top pic I’ve started riding with my hands about 1/2” behind the front of the hoods which obviously helps my geometry, but then again it seems like I could just bring the stem in and go back to the more comfortable forward portion of the hoods and have a more comfortable geometry, better brake access, etc.