IMO, yes….I would see if maybe a local shop has a takeoff stem you could try / borrow / buy cheap.
Unless it is there for an injury or some other specific reason, I’d move it back. On a bike that is arguably too small for you, I can’t see a reason to have it that far forward.
One grab and angle seems to show you are in the ballpark for height.
I know plenty of people question Knee Over Pedal Spindle (KOPS), but I tend to start with it as an easy landmark, then adjust from there. Hard to tell from a motion shot, but you are in a reasonable ballpark here too, I think.
Thank you for taking the time to look. That’s reassuring. I did feel some weight on my hands but may need to tilt the saddle up a bit. I never seem to do well with a “level” saddle.
Do you feel like you are sliding forward on the saddle from the current saddle angle?
Do you feel weight on your hands and are hoping the raising the saddle nose will “lift” you and reduce hand pressure?
I mention the above because what you describe sounds a bit more like your bars are too low. But that is a very loose guess with just your latest video and no info about actual saddle to bar drop. This may be related to the smaller frame size and inherently lower Stack height when compared to a larger frame. It may indicate that you could benefit from flipping the stem to positive angle.
I know that + flip would mean shorter saddle to bar Reach, so it may end up meaning you need a longer stem that is also higher. But you need to do some testing to see if my quick theory has any basis in reality.
The other tweak I commonly try, is to rotate the handlebars upwards around 5* positive at the main flat before the hoods. This will also raise the bars a bit and reduce drop. It also changes wrist angle which may be good, but not everyone likes that.
It was kind of both but more that I was sliding forward.
Trying the balance test I’m finding myself sliding forward even after I tilted the saddle a bit. I don’t know what’s too much but I’ve attached a pic below to show. The drop I had before was around 1.5 cm. That was before I flipped the stem. That’s a 7 degree stem.
Also as a side note.
When I went to get fitted I brought my Diverge with me as well which is a 54. I wanted them to replicate the fit because I never had any back discomfort on it. So I have the write up of the measurements from both. The drop on my diverge was a positive 1.5 cm. I know it’s different geometries but maybe that plays a part
Diverge measurements
Saddle height 70.6
Setback -5.5
Width 42
Tip of saddle to hoods 66.8
Crank length 172.5
Drop +1.5
Roubaix
Saddle height 70.8
Setback -6.0
Handlebar width 42
Tip of saddle to hoods 67.5
Crank length 165
Drop -1.5
These are different bikes with different geometries but I thought it was worth trying to get close. Not sure if any of this helps.
As far as saddle tilt goes, coming up is fine until you get excessive soft tissue pressure (particularly at the front) or if you start sliding to the rear (pretty rare). That pic seems fine as long as you don’t have pain, numbness or other similar issues.
This is all great, and explains what I was expecting. The +1.5cm (Diverge) to -1.5 (Roubaix) is not huge (3cm total delta), but it’s enough to make them feel fairly different. The pressure on your hands on the Roubaix makes sense vs what I presume is more upright and balanced feel on the Diverge?
If you dislike or want to change the hand pressure on the Roubaix (accepting the basic reach change you are already addressing with the stem via Power13) then the thing to do is increase bar height as well. Since you are apparently maxed on spacers, the real next move is a positive rise stem.
Jumping ahead, it may be that the right solution for you is something closer to a 120mm stem in the +7* angle, with the full spacer stack below. That is because the Diverge is a larger bike to start, and may have higher intended stack (even compared to a 54cm Roubaix) compared to the 52cm Roubaix.
This stem comparison tool is worth it’s weight in gold:
For your current 110mm x -7* (blue) vs my guestimated 120mm x +7* (red):
This keeps Reach nearly identical, but raises you 30mm. That should nearly match your Diverge for bar rise/drop at least. If so, and you want more bar drop, just swap a few stem spacers until you find what feels best.
This is fantastic! I will give this a go! I appreciate all the help. I think this will finally get me back to that position.
I moved from Shimano rc901 mtb shoes to Sidi Eagle 10. Cleats are in the same position (position copied by fitter with some tool) but saddle height is not feeling right and also I have front knee pain in first 30ish minutes. Probably instep/sole is thicker (or oposite)…
Does anyone have experiance with changing saddle height after moving from shimano to sidi.
Debating if I should consider moving to a larger frame on my TT bike. I feel like the fit is pretty good, but would like to stretch out a bit more, but the saddle is as far back as it can go, and the extensions are forward as much as they can go. Also I would expect a larger frame would handle better with my weight being better distributed, right?
Admitting that I don’t know the specs or limits of that particular model, your stem location looks SUPER HIGH on an extremely long steer tube. Broadly speaking, this is a no-no from a strength and safety perspective related to the fork.
That safety related aspect out of the way, that bike is at least one size too small for you IMO. I’d have to dig into geo to see about any particular recommendation, but the Reach and Eff. Top Tube Length seem well shorter than what could be appropriate for you. And the frame Stack height is low, leading to my concerns above.
Out of curiosity, how tall are you and what size is the bike?
I think it looks much better, just like @power13 is saying 
I would say that saddle might be a bit too high?
You seem to be a heel dropper (like myself), since you seem to be rocking quite a lot on the saddle and with very extended leg.
Try lowering 5mm and see if that helps.
Back pain can be due to too high saddle and not being able to rotate the hips forward/hip instability due to high saddle
Now you are hunching the back to reach, instead of rotating the hips and straightening the back for reach If that makes sense.
Yup….this is the second part of the equation. I was waiting to get his stem sorted before mentioning it (although admittedly rolling your hips is critical to achieving proper reach). But his position was just so jammed up that rolling his hips would have likely been impossible.
His tendency to want the saddle tilted up could also be impacting the pelvis rotation (or lack thereof). That’s the hidden reason I mentioned it above and recommended against too much up angle.
If he gets the bars positioned better, he may be able to have a level to slightly nose down saddle, which might permit or promote more pelvis rotation forward (anterior)
The riser is right at the max height, It’s not on the steerer of the fork though, it’s an independent riser(like a seat post)
I am 73-74" tall and this is a Large size frame. Next step up would be an XL and that’s as big as it goes. If I were to ride a more aggressive position, it would be a better fit, but it isn’t going to be used for short distance races so needs to be something that is comfortable for hours. I’m just trying to figure out if the money to change to a larger frame is worth it.
I bookmarked this for a deeper look this morning but in the most simplistic approach possible, the fact that you are at the physical limit of those adjustments and not happy with the fit seems a clear indicator that a larger size would be best.
Depends largely on whether you can live with this current setup maxed out vs wanting to make a change and suck up the cost and difficulty of swapping sizes.
The position is close, I can’t imagine needing much more than 10mm more on the extensions. That said a larger frame would push my weight farther back for the same position and should result in better/safer handling.
See below and note that the XL is 27-28mm longer in the Wheelbase & Front Center, while the Head Tube Angle and Fork geo remain the same. This means the bike will tend to be more stable and hold direction vs wanting to turn and change direction faster in the shorter L size.
If the current bike feels twitchy or unstable, the XL would likely address that issue.
