The Bike Fitting Mega-Thread

https://youtu.be/TtoviOKwOv0

This is a fun watch of testing bar widths

Couldn’t decide if I should post this here or the TT thread…but interesting article form Ronan at Escape re: his 15 HR TT attempt and the changes he made to his fit.

Contrary to what might seem logical, this extra reach actually made for a more comfortable and aero position.

This increased height and bicep-relaxing angle further improved the positional comfort and sustainability.

100% accurate…everyone always thinks that reducing reach is what is needed to increase comfort, but often the opposite is true. As long as you combine that with increasing your stack, you can actually get more stretched out AND increase comfort. As Ronan also found out, it doesn’t negatively impact aero and can often decrease CdA.

FYI: Reading on the new SRAM Apex and found a graphic that reinforces a fit measurement that often gets missed:

Note how the functional ā€œgripā€ location is off my 6mm [1/4"] in the graphic. That is a necessary consideration when looking at fit between bikes or even upgrading a single bike.

image

Measuring to the actual grip area from the saddle nose (E: my typical practice) is a useful data point in addition to the usual ones to the center of the bar clamp (D). Notably, since we are measuring E: to the actual grip, you are getting subtle influences like handlebar width, hood install angle and roll angle in the mix. So if those are important on their own, you should record those separately as well.

@mcneese.chad
So to follow up. Cut the one bar down to 700, initially I thought it might work.

Maybe on the more tame trails.

I went back to the 740, put on new grips and found that I could corner better.

Hump

Good to have a test to confirm. Bummer to cut and not like them though.

If you aim to recover them, i think Control Tech sells some bar extenders that are worth a look. But may not be worth the money unless the cut bars was kinda spendy.

@mcneese.chad Id already bought an identical pair, just for this test

Hoping you guys could give some guidance. I have some right SI joint discomfort recently. I have had a bike fit(current fit in video). I did shorten the stem because my mid and upper back was aching after a ride. I’m curious about my seat height. Just seem to struggle with lower back stuff. I do lots of mobility and strength train 2x week. Now looking at this video I look pretty upright too. I’m a MTB’er so it just feels better. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

What size stem did you have before and what are you using now?

Also, what size bike are you riding and how tall are you?

The stem before was 110. It’s 100 now. I’m 5’8. The bike is a 52

Both fits I had done on this bike they have my seat pretty forward almost all the way. My seat post has a rather long setback. So I was confident the setback is ok. Just based off that

I think you just confirmed my initial suspicions….IMO, you are having back issues because you are too upright and cramped.

You need to stretch out, not sit up……did you have your 110 stem flipped upright as well?

Honestly, while every fit is individual, at 5’8ā€, I worry your bike is too small.

Yea you are spot on. He told me I could have done a 54. I’m just trying to make it work because I can’t really afford to get another bike right now. He did flip it. It’s 7 degree. So maybe 110 and flip it?

Yes, I would start there…put the 110 back on but flipped. Flipping it will help compensate for the lack of stack you have from an undersized frame.

He should have done that first before shortening the stem, IMO. If you stretch out, but also come up by flipping the stem, I think you’ll be more comfortable.

A 120 stem may likely be preferable for you…counterintuitive, I know, but I think your back is hurting because you are having to push back and stay and support yourself since you are too cramped.

Awesome ok I’ll give that a try. I do have around 20mm of spacers under the stem too. This would explain why I always struggle with my saddle maybe. If it’s not tiled up a bit my pelvis rolls forward .

I’m trying to wrap my head around why your fitter shortened your stem, while saying you could have also been on a 54.

Literally makes no sense as the two comments contradict each other.

Once you have the 110 back on, post another video and we can see how that looks!

Totally agree. One note is to make sure you actually grab the hoods. The vid shows you back on the bar curve, which should not be a ā€œhomeā€ position.

Here is with the suggested adjustments. I went on a decent ride this morning and it definitely felt better. I had some strain on my lower back right on each side of my spine. Not necessarily pain. I think this is getting closer. I’m still trying to get the pelvis angle and saddle tilt right.

What are your thoughts?

Again I really appreciate the help on this. I’ve run out of options with fitters locally,anyway, so this is greatly appreciated

Also I wanted to clarify as I probably wasn’t clear on it. The fitter had the 110 on. I took it off thinking my back issues were from too long reach but really it seems like at least some of it was the opposite.

Definitely looks better…I’d still lie to see you stretched out a bit more.

Also, it looks like your saddle may be a bit low? I’ll defer to others on this one since I don’t have any way to measure angles, etc.

I think you also mentioned that you had moved your saddle forward….while I usually don’t recommend moving the saddle back to compensate for reach, you may want to look at it since you are working with a frame that may be too small and you have limited options.

Would it be worth a 120 stem? Instead of moving the seat back.

I’ve thought about renewing my myvelofit to get a better idea o. Seat height at least. I wasn’t thinking low so that’s definitely good to keep in mind. I feel like fitters also go high. But yea hard to tell without angles.

My seat is almost all the way forward so there is room for it to go back.

I will snag angles for you later this morning.