I do believe this helped a lot. Also what Chad mentioned about having a grip before the hoods. That always felt more comfortable to me so thats where I stayed alot. That alone increased the reach. I do have a stem on the way as well.
I have found it difficult to know where to sit as far as rotating pelvis. Admittedly I am an overthinker. I can see from this video I am sitting more square so that became more obvious once I looked. I have overcorrected,though and felt it after a ride all along my lower back.
Since I have been grabbing the bars in the correct spot and making a mental effort to stay there I was able to tilt the saddle down a smidge. I will reload a video once I get the new stem on. I do feel its getting close.
I dont experience much increase in SI on the trainer. Its mostly outside oddly enough but I can tell from the changes made so far that it feels like the right direction.
for a TT/Tri bike Handle better=stability to me. The current bike is fine if it requires no steering input, but when input is needed it feels quite twitchy(but it is a TT/Tri bike so itās not fair to expect road bike manners) The bike is pretty terrible when getting caught by gusts(wind or passing vehicles), also, I get it, itās a 70mm deep front wheel on a TT/Tri bike, but it seems pretty heavy handed still, but I donāt have a wealth of experience on TT bikes.
Yeah, I canāt speak to that bike over any other, but everything you describe should feel more stable (better) with the longer bike.
Assuming you keep the saddle height and fore-aft the same between bikes, the front wheel will be further ahead of you. This makes the bike longer overall, but effectively puts your mass more āin the middleā on the longer bike.
But since part of your interest here is a longer saddle to bar reach (still assuming same saddle position), you will likely move the aero bars forward at least a bit in the direction of the longer bike. That will place more weight on the front wheel vs bike length change only, but the longer WB (1035mm > 1008mm) & FC still improve stability even if you come all the way with the longer bike. That delta is quite large and should be very noticeable IMO.
The only reason Iām not stretching myself out on the saddle side, is that Iām out of range at that point too! Iād be happy to slide the saddle back farther!
@Cory.Rood would you define what long distance/many hours is for you?
IMO the bike is too small for you, your not long or low and you already mentioned wanting to be stretched out more on the bike. The bike being maxed out is most certainly an indicator also (obviously), being long doesnāt necessarily mean less comfort, and being very long can also help you be low lol.
P3x is a great bike, but it is āsmallerā in the cervelo world - my opinion is you should consider selling it and if you want to stay cervelo look at a P-Series in a 61.
The āultimateā thing to do is go and get a fit from a specialist that has a bike fit machine and then look at the stack/reach and look for the best fit bike based on that.
That is quite a few hours, this is my opinion and can be challenged, you absolutely are on the wrong bike.
You need something more traditional with the ability to adjust the stack/reach better for your needs, I highly recommend the P-series knowing this now, it uses a common traditional stem so you can adjust the reach and the extensions are just your standard 22.2 extension clamp so you can find your comfy extensions.
The aero advantage a P3x over a P-series is pretty minimal, but you can do so much more with the P-series in terms of making it fit you.
for the record here is my ironman bike fit (which is deemed non-aggressive for me);
I am seeing a trend on this thread, people are struggling with hip rotation for lower or more aggressive positions. I also feel like there is a lot of saddle heights that are too high.
This is very important for riders wanting to get āaggressiveā and until you āfigureā out how to do this it is difficult to ride aggressively comfortably. It is widely debated that hip rotation is ālearnedā or it is a simple as finding the ārightā saddle/angle.
I am the former, I never could learn the rotation and then one day after trying 10ās of 20ās saddles I found one that boom let me rotate. Remember you might be comfortable on your saddle, but that does not necessarily mean its right for you. My biggest help was a retul fitter that literally put saddles under me haha.
When you can rotate better, then you can dial in your hood reach better etc.
Proper hip position / rotation is really (IMO< anyway) the key element in a bike fit. If you can get your hips rotated properly, everything can fall into place.
I have used the analogy before of a dial being located on the side of your hipsā¦to rotate your hips, think about turning that dial forward while working to maintain the same angles in your hips. You are rotating around your hips, not just leaning forward.
Another way of thinking about it as having an arc running from the front of your perineum around your backside, between your legs. You want to rotate forward on that arc, removing some of weight form your sit bones. (Side note - this is a fundamental disagreement I have with TR workouts where they encourage athletes to anchor their sit bones on the saddle. This prevent good hip rotation, IME).
Yeah, it looked that way form your images. Really the opposite of rolling your hipsā¦you are just leaning forward which limits your reach and how low you can go. It also is not very sustainable (as you found out!)
Rolling your hips can be a challenge as @teddygram notedā¦but once the light bulb goes off, you are in a much better position!!
It is such a fast bikeā¦Iād put it up against almost any of the āmodernā superbikes out now.
And just a fabulous geometryā¦long & low.
Only downsides are it is a PITA to travel with and the rear brake is really only a āspeed modulatorā.
That is also a great positionā¦hands right up to your face and forearms past 90*.
funny note - AFAIK, I am still the only person that Jim at ERO tested where a high hands position was NOT faster. It wasnāt even closeā¦I did two laps with Zipp EVO bars and he pulled me in and said āNope, donāt even bother.ā I have people tell me all the time āYou should raise your hands up!ā and I just say āOnly if I want to get slower!ā
I have read/seen people talk about the mantis being slower from them.
I am not sure of your anatomy but you look tall/long and wide shouldered, I am pretty small (but THIC lol) with narrow shoulders and can really fit in a box when I shrug.
I think thats what really kills high hands is if you just have āsoā much surface area to deal with.
Iād be happy to slide the saddle back farther!
