Bike fitter wants me to move to 165 cranks on my road bike. Bike is 12 speed 105 groupset and I’ve used Favero Assiomas for power for years.
With the move to a new crankset, I’m considering just going for a powermeter crankset, so I can run whatever pedals I want for gravel racing, etc. I have SRAM/Quarq on my mountain bikes and am happy there.
Should I look to 4iiii on a Shimano crank? Get a dub BB for SRAM? Some of the other options?
Preference would be for a 50/34t chainring and I definitely want dual leg measurement.
Of course, there’s always the option of just buying Favero SPD pedals and a shorter 105 crankset for about the same price as a power crankset.
Are you just looking for total power from both sides? Or being able to actually measure each leg independently? SRAM gives you true total power, but not actual left / right power.
SRAM/Quarq have never given me a reason to look elsewhere. I don’t care for their design that combines the spider and rings, but their pure spider-based PM’s have never let me down.
I run Dura-Ace on my Road Bike, but set it up as a mullet with SRAM Red Crank / Quarq Spider. I like quarq because if you need to true it up to your trainer, you can adjust the slope (I’ve had several, only needed to do it once though)
I think my main my hangup on SRAM is their chainrings. Overall pretty happy with a 50/34. If anything I would like lower climbing gears, but don’t want the big ring to go to a 46 for the 33 small ring. I’d probably end up getting the 48/35 and losing a tiny bit of low gearing.
Do aftermarket chainrings exist for the new thread on chainrings?
But with SRAM, you are typically running a 10t cog on the rear vs. an 11t cog on shimano gearing. A 46 ring with 10t cog is a higher gear than a 50 ring with an 11t. So, the 46 is typically going to give you more top and than a 50. We can debate the efficiency of the 10t cog, but it’s a good trade off to allow a wider gear range in my opinion.
Can you run SRAM cassettes on an HG hub/shimano 12s derailleur? Hub swap is probably further down this rabbit hole than I’d like to go and a going to SRAM derailleur would be out of the question.
Another vote for SRAM/Quarq been running them for years before SRAM bought out Quarq.
Flirted with Stages because of the clean look but didn’t like the one sided thing.
Went back to Quarq and wondered why did I ever leave.
I’m running a D zero with Dura Ace rings and and another D Zero 1x with a Force ring, haven’t had a problem, the thing just works.
I’ve had SRMs, Quarqs, Power2max and got a Magene P505 last year, I see no reason to buy a power crank other than Magene anymore. It lines up right in my with Favero pedals and Kickr comparing power, zero offset is stable and it just works and best of all, it was $300.
My next purchase will probably be the Magene Teo which is 425g
Favero pedals still make sense though if your looking for something portable
Yep. I would go for a Magene or Sigeyi spider PM. Check with Power Meter City (usa) for relevant tech info and advice. They stock and sell just about all PMs including SRAM/QUARQ, Favero, Garmin…
I use a 4iiii single-side factory install on my Dura Ace 165mm crank. It was the least expensive power meter option and works great. I like the built-in Apple FindMy tracking, too.
The Pro pedals lets you swap between SPD and SPD-SL pedal bodies for cheap ($100).
Better option than swapping cranks IMO, since they keep coming out w/ new bottom bracket/frame standards. And cranks change with fit, as you just witnessed. Pedals, not as much.
100%. If your bike has Shimano, the Magene is the best option out there. $300 (when I bought mine), and it’s a straight swap for Shimano cranks and chainrings. The entire process took like 30 minutes to do. And it’s rock solid reliable.
Quarq are great but you are stuck with sram bb types. Getting a sram dub bb into bb86 frames leaves a lot to be desired. I read enough for it to put me off doing it on my Revolt so I went with a Stages (which then went out of business and back in again).
I would not go the 4iiii route, I’d either stick to Assiomas or get a Quarq power meter. Like others have said, any spider-based power meter can only estimate left/right balance, but that has been good enough for my purposes. Having accurate total power is key, though. A third option is to get a Rotor crank with a Power2Max power meter.
For my next bike, I’ll likely get Assioma MX-2s. On my current road bike, I have had a Quarq DZero. The latter has been completely boring. I only experienced a dropout once — when the battery died during a ride. Other than that, that thing has been pretty much flawless.