1100 shifts per 100 mile seems nuts to me.
Thats shifting every 145m ish of travel on average?
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I thought it was a lot also. Then I was thinking if you go up the cassette 10 cogs for that steep short hill, that prob counts as 10 shifts to the Garmin..then back down that’s 10 more.
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Mine is ~3x that. I think my shift count at Unbound last year was ~6500. Usually around 3k shifts on my saturday rides when on hilly terrain. Our hills are short, but can be steep and frequent.
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I honestly cant see how you could shift that much.
3300 shifts over 100 miles
33 shifts per mile
20 shifts per km or a shift every 50m of travel
30kph avg, 8.33 m/s
Shifting every 6 seconds on average for 100 miles.
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Hilly around here. I looked at a few rides and see 15-25 shifts per mile. I don’t know if jumping multiple gears counts as one shift or as the number of gears jumped. I believe it’s the latter.
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If you use the SRAM app, it counts every ring as a shift.
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I’m just going with what the app says, but I guess I do shift a lot. I just looked at stats from the first stage of a gravel race I did last weekend and it was 2464 shifts in 100 miles. And it was fairly flat, only ~5k feet of climbing. Stage 2 on sunday was really flat and I still had 1452 shifts over 65 miles.
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Mega numbers lol, suprised the buttons still going 
Do you have a really specific cadence to aim for?
I can only compare it to myself ofcourse.
Last week, 10 mile TT, 267m gain, avg speed 36kph, avg cadence 98RPM, shifted 32 times total lol
Today I learned, that’s neat (somewhat useless, but neat anyway)!
- Local trails: 11 shifts/km
- Local gravel: 3/km
- BWR: 15.5/km
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The buttons aren’t the surprise, it’s my 2019 era Eagle AXS rear derailleur. It’s been serving double duty between my MTB and gravel bikes since then and probably has over 50k miles on it over the last 6 seasons. I figure that’s got to be over 1 million shifts and probably much more. I’ve replaced jockey wheels a few times, but zero issues other than that. And I am not nice to my bikes, it’s been totally engulfed in mud many, many times. Bikes are remarkably durable, but for a first generation product like that to last like it has, I’m pretty impressed. Switched to Transmission RD on the MTB last year and switching to Transmission on the Gravel bike this week, so the old Eagle AXS RD is going out to pasture on my old trail bike (which basically never gets ridden).
With 1x, I’d think the shift count would be lower since the jumps are bigger, haven’t given it much thought. My cadence usually ends up around 80, sometimes higher with road riding, sometimes lower on the MTB.
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If there was only flat roads where I live. ERG is my only time for no shifts.
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I would politely suggest that they try a different size, the rubber bit sounds 
like it isn’t fitting the ear correctly. Or maybe the strap is rubbing on that particular side.
My current solution is using foam ear tips instead of the latex ones. They stay in better. However because I have big ears that catch the wind I need to be cautious when flying down hill against the wind.
I would be very surprised to see 2032’s go 2 YEARS in AXS shifters. From personal experience annual replacement is best. Been on AXS since mid 2019 and have it on 3 bikes currently. As previously stated, low battery warnings are basically useless. My worst experience was a low warning, 2 or 3 shifts then dead batteries. Annual replacement does prevent that . Otherwise I love the system and considering how many other things need battery maintenance on a modern bike it became nothing more than getting used to it.
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They survived a full summer of riding, followed by partly riding Zwift in winter (to be fair with VERY few shifts), followed by a full summer of riding last year. They dropped somewhere between October and today. It will be getting a first ride this weekend, and I figured I’d try it today - 100% dead
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My shifter batteries are the originals from when I bought my gravel bike in May of '23. Still showing green and working fine. Not a lot of miles though, only ~1200, as I mainly ride mtb and only ride the gravel bike on odd occasion.
I spend so much time on the trainer, using TR, that my shifter batteries from when my shifters were installed last October are probably still at 90%. That being said, I had Garmin power meter pedals have batteries that were about to die while I was in Colorado for a race last summer. They were a different type of battery that wasted hours of my vacation driving around to different places to find them (long story, called places, said they had them, showed up, didn’t actually have them).
With that in mind, I’ll probably just be proactive changing out my power meter, heart rate monitor, and shifter batteries at around 50% of the manufacturers recommendation. The very very small monetary and time cost is virtually nothing compared to being on a big ride or race and having them go out. I also keep a spare in my tail bag, since they take up basically no room…
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Batteries showing green is where the problem lies. They will show green until they donor and there does not seem to be much delta between green and dead. The system should be able to give a better readout on battery charge level and warnings that give adequate time to zero.
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It’s just the nature of lithium coin cell batteries. The voltage doesn’t drop until they are almost dead and then falls off a cliff. Voltage is the only thing you can read to indicate the capacity remaining in a battery, so lithium is tough. Things like electric cars have shunts where it’s actually measuring the electrons going in and out of the battery to determine state of charge, but that’s a big technology ask for a shifter. You could switch to a different battery chemistry where the voltage actually drops gradually as the battery is depleted, but those batteries generally suck and the voltage drop causes problems as well. Switching out batteries as part of yearly maintenance solves the problem and it’s never a bad idea to carry an extra coin cell as well (batteries can be defective).
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Those are things I already do. Can’t help but wish for a bit more information but if the nature of the batteries limit that capability then the solution is already sorted out.
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