The duct-tape work around would be to possibly use an ANT+ to BLE bridging device like the 4iiii heart rate monitor or the one from CABLE. I’ve never tried it, but think others have used that tech and process to get another BLE stream for a 2nd device use, especially if it is “read only” and not for control.
Thanks for confirming…I thought it was only a single BT connection.
I am using an ANT connection with my laptop, so I’m good…was just hoping to simply things. The PC program for Zwift is just so slow to load, etc. I hate it.
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Yeah, watching how fast my wife access Z on ATV is amazing compared to my older PC. I know I could upgrade to an SSD for an improvement, but will hold off for a full PC upgrade at some point.
Yup…if I am not running Zwift and TR concurrently, then my default is ATV for Zwift. Despite the horrors of the remote, it is so much easier than using a PC. The load is almost instantaneous by comparison!
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does anyone have a rocker plate that works with the h3? I think i can get away with the lifeline version if i tweak the bladders to have different volumes in them? thoughts?
The trick I use for the Saris H series trainers is to partially fold the left leg back, and then strap it down. There’s no need to have it fully extended when using a rocker.
As to your comment on spring volume, just use a proper counterweight at 10lbs [5kg] and use the same pressure technique as all other trainers and rockers.
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Will adjust my left leg on the Saris for tomorrow’s ride!!!
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thank you for this!
do you not have a 5kg weight as i cant see it in your photo?
and where would you put it? next to the side of the trainer on the drive side?
That is a random photo I found in our Rocker Plate group on FB. I just grabbed it because it shows the leg position well. It is entirely possible to level a rocker without a counterweight, but the results are best when using one. Here are my specific instructions about how to setup a rocker with a counterweight:
Ignore the leg position here, but this is another example I grabbed from the group that shows basic counterweight placement:
Make sure to tie any weight down to the rocker so it does not move after you have finalized the location in the steps above.
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Hi all, way back in 2020 there were discussions on here about a grinding noise from S3s. I’ve had my S3 for almost 3 years, its been solid but I did replace the power cable! I had the grinding noise once before and it just fixed itself… but now its back! It only happens in the smaller rings (ie tougher gears) which makes no sense to me. I was wondering if anyone had a definite fix for this issue?
I’ve been having this lately too- in the hardest gears, there’s a clunking feeling, like I can feel the chain mating with each individual cassette tooth. I thought it was my drivetrain, got a new chain and cassette, and was about to get a new chainring before realizing it was only happening indoors, even with the same cassette on my wheel outside. It’s very odd.
Sounds similar. I’d describe is as feeling almost like there’s sand being ground down within the teeth/cogs/ axle or somewhere as i peddle…when i change gear so the chain is aligned with the front derailleur it stops. I’m going to try a few combinations:
- Small front ring, try each rear cog
- Large front ring, try each cog
- Do this in both erg and resistance mode
- Try on the flat or going uphill in erg mode
- Etc
Im using an ant adapter for 2 channels. Sometimes drop outs with ant and the saris. I have the 4iiii heart rate monitor an know its capabilities. Just never thought of using it this way. DUH!!!
Thanks
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I think this is the issue fixed with a better retention screw (holding the drive pulley to the flywheel shaft) mentioned previously, but I don’t think that will actually fix it, especially if you’ve been using it for a while. We’ve had one for years that clunked a bit, and recently got far worse. I opened that one up to see what was going on, and that screw was definitely loose, which caused the pulley to move on the shaft, and actually wore down the key between the two. I could not force any radial motion of the flywheel, but noticed that even spinning up just the flywheel with a power drill, you could hear a light clunking.
When reassembling with an oversized key, I noticed that the pulley is a quite loose slip fit on the shaft. Not sure if that’s a function of the screw not holding the assembly together correctly or designed fit between the two parts, but I could see that causing some downstream issues with bearings in the flywheel. I didn’t notice any real wear on the shaft mating surfaces, mostly just within the keyway which was pretty chewed up. Without disassembling farther than that, my speculation is the weak point in that design is how the drive pulley and shaft fit/ are fastened in the flywheel, specifically in using a countersunk screw and washer to hold the two together which eventually may fail on all units (although likely wayyyyy past the point any electronics may fail). The early units assembled with the phillips head screw made of gruyere accelerated wear/ failure of that joint, especially if used for any amount of time while the “clunking” is happening.
This all may entirely be bunk so take it with a grain of salt, just my observations/ speculations from tearing down our failed unit while procrastinating my real job.
Anyone use an NX cassette with eagle? I was thinking of putting my gravel or mtb on the trainer.
Yes. I didn’t want to adjust the gearing for when I took it off the trainer so it doesn’t shift well but works in Erg.
Good I’m in erg 99.9% of the time. My road bike di2 battery might have been dead for months and I haven’t noticed.
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Would welcome a quick reaction from the group here.
Thinking about using an old, early 90s Cannondale road bike (close to an SR400) as the trainer rig. Don’t want to permanently modify it. It’s got too much sentimental value. And I’d still like to be able to take it outside. It’s got 12-speed SIS with thread-on Shimano 600 rear cassette. Given that H3 is wheel off, I’m assuming I could just find the cheapest 8 speed cassette and use QR attachments, etc. and could make it all work given that I use ERG mode almost 100% of the time. So don’t care really about shifting, etc.
One item that gives me pause is that Saris says its minimum rear dropout clearance is 130mm. My Cannondale measures just about 126mm. Some internet reading tells me that the bike was designed to adapt to either 126mm or 130. But I don’t like the idea of ‘tweaking’ the frame those 4mm.
Anyone have experience with a bike of this vintage? Is it just too old to use on a modern smart trainer?
My instruction book for the H3 says 130mm Road Bike with QR, 135mm for MTB with QR; 142mm Road/MTB with thru-axle or 148mm MTB with thru-axle.
Agree with ERG mode and as long as your chain will work with a “cheap cassette” (I’d personally match the bike with a proper speed one) it would be ok.
Sorry for the crude picture but here are the 130mm adapters, depending on which side you need a few mm bigger maybe could be made by someone.
