Saris H3 Discussion/Issues

hasn’t SARIS been sold recently due to them going bankrupt? I wouldn’t expect a response any time soon if that is the case. I have one of these as well and will go with one of the other ones when this one eventually fails…

Is it possible this is from the belt? Seems like a misaligned belt would be likely to produce dust with excessive wear. Maybe open it up and check how to belt is seated?

I haven’t opened up my H3 to check, but if I remember right the stock belt on my original Hammer was red.

Saris got back to me and said its the belt, I think they are gonna send me a replacement but it must be misaligned to all of the sudden start getting ate up like it seems to be, the squeaking is annoying to but comes and goes, thought it was my chain at first, kept waxing the bajezus out of it and I was like “ARGGGHHH why won’t you stop squeaking?” lol.

Hopefully the send some instructions on how to change and align the belt.

Your seat post is laughing in the background.

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I was reading though all posts but I do not have any clue, if a Shimano 12 speed cassette for my Canyon Endurace CF SL8 Di2 with Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8150 will wotrk with the Saris H3.

I thought to buy the Saris H3, install a Shimano 11 speed cassette for my current gravel bike with Shimano GRX 2 x 11 and then (for my nee Canyon Endurace) change to a 12 speed cassette. Will that work and how will it work?

Hey all,

I use Assioma dual-sided power meter pedals with PowerMatch with my H3 in ERG mode, and accustomed to the usual spikiness (i.e., oversteering above & below the target) that goes along with PowerMatch. That’s why I’ve been surprised a few times in the last few weeks when actual power has been locked onto the target power exceptionally well. It locks on so well that I can’t even get it to deviate by significantly varying my cadence. That said, this ideal ERG mode behavior seems to be the exception, not the norm. I’d love to be able to get it to behave this way ALL the time, but can’t figure out what variables are contributing to the better PowerMatch behavior. Does anyone else experience this same difference - PowerMatch sometimes performing very well and at other times super spiky? I’ve attached screenshots from a ride I just completed where the first half of a 1h15min Zone 2 interval was VERY locked onto the target, but then begins oversteering and becomes spiky during the last half. The second screenshot is’s view, with the y-axis scaled to make the difference more noticeable. Anyone out there have similar experiences and/or know of things I can do to make PowerMatch consistently reproduce the smoothness it did during the first half of this ride? I have already tried messing with the trainer sensitivity setting, and have decided that it doesn’t really make a difference, so I just leave it set to the default (0.5).


I suspect these are power drops from your pedals, which depend on signal interference and are thus hard to predict.

I went from an H2 (the wife could tell I was on the trainer before she opened the door from the garage, and the pain cave was 2 rooms away) to an H3, and it was freakishly quiet. I can hear the drive train!

Cadence issues? Yeah, still there to some point. Some very minor power issues too, but considering that it’s so quiet, it’s a HUGE improvement. Massive! And the price makes it a real deal for a trainer that I think could sell at a higher price point.

But don’t beat the H3 too hard over some cadence issues as the 2T I have also has some cadence issues as well, with certain bikes and crank choices. It’s been bad enough for some 2T owners that they have taken to sticking pieces of steel on the inside of their crank arms to provide more substance for the trainer to sense.

IMO the H3 has a lot going for it, and for a trainer choice there certainly are a lot worse possibilities.

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No, it won’t. GPLama did a review of the H4 and ripped Saris for their statements saying it was compatible, and the actual fact is it’s not. Check out his H4 review. The H3 and H4 aren’t the only trainer BTW that claim to be Shimano 12-speed compatible that aren’t. He brings the goods on those that aren’t.

They are sending a belt, or a whole new unit?

I took apart an H3 I received that was defective (what would it hurt) and replacing the belt didn’t look like an easy task. AND all of the fasteners are SAE, ie; Not metric. Good luck if you get a belt.

I just got an H3…I dont even bother with its cadence signal, I just run a wahoo cadence sensor.


if they are sending a belt kit it comes with 3 needed wrenches 1/8 allen and T30 , whereas a single 5 mil allen would have sufficed, along with a 5 mil allen.

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Same here. Use a dedicated Garmin cadence sensor. Saris’ cadence reading was so, so slow.

Whole configuration seems to work better for me.

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@koalb I disagree. The oversteering in ERG mode is not from signal drops. Here is all of the data from the .FIT file.

No zeros in the second half at all, so what else could be causing the resistance oversteering?

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Looking closely at my non powermatch, steady state rides on my H3 mine consistently look like the end of your ride. I think the ‘anomaly’ might be the very smooth data at the first part of the ride, not the rougher section at the end. I don’t know if my experience is representative of others however.

@toyman I know, right? So what I’m really trying to figure out is what I can do to make the H3 behave more like the first half of that ride.

I agree with @toyman. If I saw that data file in my ride history I would assume that power match was turned on, but didn’t connect to my power meter until the second part of the ride. My understanding is that TR will fall back to using the smart trainer’s power if it can’t connect to a power meter when using power match.

Everything I’ve ready and experienced says that you just don’t get power measurements that tight to the target using powermatch. The best results I’ve had with powermatch tend to be at lower flywheel speeds, i.e. lower gearing and sometimes lower cadence

Cool! That would save them shipping. Ride on!

I keep reading that a 12 speed cassette won’t work with the H3. What is everyone with 12 speed bikes doing? Would 11 speed cassette work if you just leave it in ERG and don’t shift?

Sadly, it is more complex than most would like. For starters, “12-speed” is far from a singular item. Here is a quick summary from memory, just to show the opening to the mess.

  • SRAM 12 speed Eagle MTB
  • SRAM 12 speed AXS Road/Gravel (Flattop chain)
  • Shimano 12 speed
  • Campy 12 speed (what’s that? :wink: )

I hesitate to list compatibility now, but know that those above do not all match with each other, nor are they all backwards compatible with 11 speed cassettes. Honestly, someone needs to make a rather messy chart that shows compatibility. I’ve researched and linked a number of them in the past, but most are a bit behind the time with the newer stuff, not to mention the pending debut of flattop chains for the SRAM MTB side of life.

Ain’t progress grand :stuck_out_tongue: