Im using an ant adapter for 2 channels. Sometimes drop outs with ant and the saris. I have the 4iiii heart rate monitor an know its capabilities. Just never thought of using it this way. DUH!!!
Thanks
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I think this is the issue fixed with a better retention screw (holding the drive pulley to the flywheel shaft) mentioned previously, but I donāt think that will actually fix it, especially if youāve been using it for a while. Weāve had one for years that clunked a bit, and recently got far worse. I opened that one up to see what was going on, and that screw was definitely loose, which caused the pulley to move on the shaft, and actually wore down the key between the two. I could not force any radial motion of the flywheel, but noticed that even spinning up just the flywheel with a power drill, you could hear a light clunking.
When reassembling with an oversized key, I noticed that the pulley is a quite loose slip fit on the shaft. Not sure if thatās a function of the screw not holding the assembly together correctly or designed fit between the two parts, but I could see that causing some downstream issues with bearings in the flywheel. I didnāt notice any real wear on the shaft mating surfaces, mostly just within the keyway which was pretty chewed up. Without disassembling farther than that, my speculation is the weak point in that design is how the drive pulley and shaft fit/ are fastened in the flywheel, specifically in using a countersunk screw and washer to hold the two together which eventually may fail on all units (although likely wayyyyy past the point any electronics may fail). The early units assembled with the phillips head screw made of gruyere accelerated wear/ failure of that joint, especially if used for any amount of time while the āclunkingā is happening.
This all may entirely be bunk so take it with a grain of salt, just my observations/ speculations from tearing down our failed unit while procrastinating my real job.
Anyone use an NX cassette with eagle? I was thinking of putting my gravel or mtb on the trainer.
Yes. I didnāt want to adjust the gearing for when I took it off the trainer so it doesnāt shift well but works in Erg.
Good Iām in erg 99.9% of the time. My road bike di2 battery might have been dead for months and I havenāt noticed.
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Would welcome a quick reaction from the group here.
Thinking about using an old, early 90s Cannondale road bike (close to an SR400) as the trainer rig. Donāt want to permanently modify it. Itās got too much sentimental value. And Iād still like to be able to take it outside. Itās got 12-speed SIS with thread-on Shimano 600 rear cassette. Given that H3 is wheel off, Iām assuming I could just find the cheapest 8 speed cassette and use QR attachments, etc. and could make it all work given that I use ERG mode almost 100% of the time. So donāt care really about shifting, etc.
One item that gives me pause is that Saris says its minimum rear dropout clearance is 130mm. My Cannondale measures just about 126mm. Some internet reading tells me that the bike was designed to adapt to either 126mm or 130. But I donāt like the idea of ātweakingā the frame those 4mm.
Anyone have experience with a bike of this vintage? Is it just too old to use on a modern smart trainer?
My instruction book for the H3 says 130mm Road Bike with QR, 135mm for MTB with QR; 142mm Road/MTB with thru-axle or 148mm MTB with thru-axle.
Agree with ERG mode and as long as your chain will work with a ācheap cassetteā (Iād personally match the bike with a proper speed one) it would be ok.
Sorry for the crude picture but here are the 130mm adapters, depending on which side you need a few mm bigger maybe could be made by someone.
I put an NX eagle cassette on the trainer and its making a weird noise I canāt figure out what it is. The cassette is really close to the trainer but it doesnāt touch. Do I need a spacer or something?
I put the spacer on mine. Shifted poorly and would need to adjust limit screws but I didnāt want to mess with it so found the best gear and kept it in erg mode.
I was thinking about just taking one of the small spacers from the bottom of the cassette and using that for a bit of room or do you think its better to use the big spacer?
I just used the small spacer that came with the trainerā¦ but I think any will work. My issue was that without the spacer, it shifted well but I couldnāt tighten the thru bolt down. The official stance I got from Saris via email is that itās not comparable with a 12 speed cassetteā¦ this is probably why. But like I said, it did work in erg mode just fine and was super quiet.
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My power supply went out, and had to replace it. Found this on Amazon, and it has the same power specs, and the correct barrel connector. It is working fine for me. The output cable length is ānormalā, so not as long as the unusually long one on the stock supply.
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Iāve been troubleshooting an issue with my H3: over the past months my trainer hasnāt been working right. I cracked the tophat spacer (now replaced), but Iāve noticed a big power discrepancy between indoors and outdoors that has persisted even after replacing the tophat. After doing pretty extensive testing outdoors on some steep climbs (and using both spider based and hub based power meters outdoors) Iām pretty certain the H3 is under-reading by 10%.
Is there anything else that might have been damaged by riding with a busted tophat spacer that I should look at or try to fix? I added grease to the freehub/tophat but did nothing else. I find the power discrepancy very annoying and want to get to the bottom of it even though I can use powermatch (and would like to know one way or the other if my trainer is off or my two power meters). I havenāt been able to get Saris to reply though their customer service has usually been good with other issues.
Tophat shouldnāt be a problem here. Maybe you should tight transmission belt and try to warmup (~180W@5min) and calibrate H3. My units calibrates with ~13.5s with this procedure and works very good in terms of power measuring.
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I opened up the trainer and noticed the belt tension spring was at 1 inch instead of 0.75. I tightened it up maybe that was making a big difference
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My Saris H3 seems to be dead except has a blinking red light, cannot connect via bluetooth. Light was dimmed on the H3 supply so bought an aftermarket one, same problem persists. No response from Saris supportā¦
Grateful for any suggestions?
If you bought your H3 on a credit card it might have an extended warranty and you can file a claim.
Sorry 
I Think the only easy thing to fix is a replacement power adapter, which you already tried. It certainly was plausible that the power adapter wasnāt providing adequate voltage/power and replacing it would help, but it seems that is not the case.
List of LED error codes, assuming you are getting the first red blinking error which is a Radio communication error, you are going to need to contact Saris.
Mike
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Thanks - I hadnt seen that. I just turned on again to see how fast the red LED was flashing and now I dont get any LED at all, which I am guessing is not a good sign. I will email Saris again and see if I get a response.