Anyway of getting all 3 options available on this trainer via ant or Bluetooth? Is it a communication limitation? Firmware oversight? Trainerroad software issue? Just got my H3 yesterday and was curious why I didn’t see standard mode and just ERG and resistance.
Those are questions likely best directed to support at Saris and TR. I do know that this basic approach mirrors the function we see on the Wahoo Kickr as well. Standard is on BLE and Resistance on ANT+ from my testing and reporting from others.
It may well be a protocol issue as I loosely remember someone mentioning, but that is beyond fuzzy memory for me.
There was a bit of discussion about whether you could put a Shimano 12spd cassette on the H3.
In my personal experience, the answer is NO.
I took the 12spd Ultegra cassette off my bike and tried putting it onto my new H3. I could only get about half a thread on the cassette nut and as soon as it built up some tension, it would pop off.
@mcneese.chad shared a link to a Zwift thread that stated as long as the trainer has an 11spd Hyperglide cassette body it would work for the 12spd. I shared this with Saris while I waited for my trainer to arrive but they told me it wouldn’t work and it appears Saris was right.
I was excited to get a new trainer to go with my new bike but now I’m in a bit of a quandary as to what to do… if anyone has had success with a 12spd setup on an H3, I’d love to know how you did it!
From what I understand, the 12s cassette should slip onto a regular HG 11 Speed option, which is what the Saris ships with.
Likely stupid question, but it must be asked… did you remove the 10s spacer that usually ships installed on the Saris trainers? It’s a black spacer ring, retained with a red rubber band. That rubber band and black spacer MUST be removed for use with a normal 11s and the presumably compatible 12s.
Any chance you can take a pic of the setup with the 12s in place to see where it might be sticking or not installing fully?
Yes, I did remove the ring and rubber band. I installed the cassette with the H3 on its side and the cassette body facing up. The 12s was trickier to get on than the 11s I’m accustomed to but I took my time to ensure all of the cogs were fully nested.
Unfortunately, no. I tried this last night and today, I’ve already boxed up my new Canyon to be returned as I’m coming up on my 30day trial and I need a smaller size. The replacement bike is currently out of stock and won’t be available until somewhere between July 4th-15th, so it’ll be another couple of weeks before I have another 12s to work with.
Well, shoot. Was hoping it was something easy like that.
Not everyone has one of these handy, but make sure to save the white “cassette hub” that comes with any new Shimano cassette you buy. Shane Miller showed this amazingly useful way to use and reuse that part for removing and installing a cassette in mere seconds.
That is just one video with a super quick showing of that use. I know he has a better one that actually explains it better, and maybe @GPLama can share that one for the best detail. In any event, it is a nearly priceless tool for stuff like this. You could have pulled the 12s off your bike, slipped it onto the trainer in mere moments. So, food for thought in the future.
People have asked if they can buy one of those hubs but I have never seen one sold. If you don’t have one handy when you buy your next cassette, perhaps a stop by a local shop may end up with a spare one from them. Alternatively, this is likely a great option to employ 3D printing to get one with relative ease?
That is cool! Never seen that before. My new bike came with the 12s Ultegra, so I didn’t get one of those plastic parts but will definitely save the one from the next cassette that I buy.
Has anyone fit a 12 speed SRAM Eagle cassette fit on the H3 with the hub adaptor?
I keep these for storing cassettes when I swap, but like an idiot, I take them off one cog at a time and place them on the “white hub”. This is an ace hack!
I’ve used the NPE Cable without issue for several years now.
I can use Chrome on my laptop to cast my laptop screen to my tv now without any cables.
So with an Ant+ stick on my laptop that issue is resolved.
Here is how if anyone interested.
SWEET! Glad you got a solution in place.
Hope you can fully enjoy the trainer now
Anyone having issues calibrating in the TR app? I can do a full on sprint and I can’t get it close to the MPH requirement
From what I remember, it’s possibly best to calibrate using the Saris app. I am pretty sure TR halted calibration support for the lower Magnus & M2. Not saying they did the same with the Hammer, H2 H3, but it could be worth contacting TR support to see if there is some sort of issue.
Just got my H3… the resistance is really low for things like Zwift, even after calibrating on the Saris App. You literally spin and spin and go nowhere because you are doing like 10-20 watts. Its annoying.
Another issue I have had is that in the Saris app if you set it to 250 watts it “feels” about right. Then in other programs there is less resistance. The Saris app really is not good and the operating system needs a big upgrade in my opinion.
That sounds like something is just plain off. What have you done for trouble shooting at this time? Just a few quick things to check if you haven’t:
- Make sure you have power to the trainer.
- Confirm the trainer is connected to your Z device (blue light = BLE, white light = ANT+).
- Make sure to use the FEC version of the trainer in the Power & Controlled boxes.
- Confirm Trainer Difficulty is somewhere to the right side of the slider.
It’s interesting in the comparison between the Saris app and others. Just seems like there is an issue with app use elsewhere. Have you tried a TR app workout in ERG to see what happens?
Is it also connected to zwift while doing it? When I tried to use the saris app while it was connected to TR i had a similar issue
Might need to shift into a bigger gear.
Power is on… Blue light… In Erg mode for a workout. During the warm-up the resistance is minimal, thus the spinning and “going nowhere.” Once the workout starts the resistance increases and decreases but does feels a lower resistance than in manual mode. I’ll check the trainer difficulty.
Both apps were open. I will try closing one and see if that helps!
For clarity, I mentioned TD because you didn’t specify your use case for Z above. In the context of an ERG controlled workout, the TD setting in Zwift does NOT apply.
TD only affects pure riding simulation mode within Z. It think it would be good to test both ERG workouts and regular riding, to see what you experience.
- FOR SURE, close the Saris app once you are done with the calibration. It is bad juju to have a smart trainer connected to multiple apps that have the potential to control the trainer. It usually leads to odd results like a tug-o-war or other problems. Ideally, you want only one app with any chance of control for the trainer open.