-
From what I have seen mentioned, this might relate to Wahoo’s various patents. The height adjustment aspect was sited as part of their patent(s) and could well explain why no other company offers something similar.
-
The old Elite Drivo had traingular front feet that offered a simple form of 3 height adjustments. But they ditched that with subsequent trainer designs for some reason (no idea if it’s patent related).
-
-
-
Outside of that, I am not aware of any other modern smart trainer that offers height adjustment. Nothing from Tacx, Elite, JetBlack and such.
-
Uhhh, no. Why would you think that?
-
With the Hammer series in particular, any bike setup that has a front wheel & tire setup that exceeds a functional diameter of a typical 700x25-28 tire will be in the same boat. You are definitely not the only one considering all the MTB and gravel setups I’ve seen on Hammers.
-
Then you take an already elevated setup like your gravel bike and place it on the higher riser that Saris offers and recommends for their MP1, more angle is to be expected.
-
This issue may be worse with the Hammer series since they designed it to work with a minimal height wheel riser. Wahoo will have a similar issue with their Core since it is not adjustable and is designed for no riser with regular road bike use.
-
The Neo in particular uses a rather thick riser for road setups. For people with MTB & Gravel setups, they might be able to ditch that riser entirely or use a thinner one to dial in the angle to their preference, even with these “big wheel” uses.
I specifically recommend that people try a higher front (lower rear) to deal with the lack of wind pushing our upper body back like we get when riding outside (pic of my comments added below for quick reference).
-
Dead level axles may make sense in theory, but the notable lack of motion and wind resistance when inside, leads me to believe that is not the best option. The issue of weight distribution varies between inside and outside if you have dead level axles. Higher front angle can shift that a bit and IME at least, helps solve some hand numbness and saddle comfort issues with even axles.
-
I’ve not seen a solution posted by anyone. I used some scrap lumber in my fitting needs but would do something different if I needed to do it more often and wanted a very clean setup.
-
If I were to head down that road, I’d measure the axles in whatever setup I want it to be located. If you aim to use the MP1 with the riser, do that and know the full height from deck to axle. Find the height delta and then make a block/shim that supports the body of the trainer at a height that gets you level or whatever delta you want that’s less than the starter setup.
-
I’d match that shim with a smaller one under each of the outer feet to have an even support under the body and feet. Likely screw, glue or tape those to the deck and then strap the trainer down firmly on top of all that.