I get ~4,000 - 5,000km from a rear Pro One 28mm (ive done 25,000km+ on them in total, so gone through a few), this is with the older model, they released an updated version late last year, i havent tried those yet
For me they are cheap (about $65AU) compared to $100+ for GP5000, and ive never had an issue with them so I am not changing anytime soon
Can also report I had a slow leak puncture (didnt even notice it until after the ride) which wouldnt fully seal even after a few more rides (still just very occasional slow sealant leaks, not losing significant pressure) so I stuck a plug in it. Has been fine ever since! Would definitely plug again
I carry much the same. Tube, dyna plug, levers, multi tool, but also a spare valve core and core removal tool. This isn’t specifically because of tubeless but I’ve had a valve core break off when inflating after a puncture before so we’ll worth it I think.
I forgot to mention these, I carry both as often a valve can get gummed up, also if I need to add sealant I’d rather do it through the valve than break the bead…pumps also love to unscrew the valve when taking them off!
All my MTBs are tubeless but on road the smallest tyres I’ve used it with have been 35c. Sealant works best at lower pressures - you aren’t forcing the air, and sealant, out in the same way as at high pressures.
My tubeless kit is:
Anchovies/tyre plugs plus applicator
Flexible super glue (Loctite powerflex)
Pump
Leatherman squirt
Needle and thread
paper tissue
tyre boot
tyre levers
Tubolito tube
spare valve core
The tube really is item of last resort, I’ve only ever been beaten by tubeless twice in six years - both times due to rim damage.
The needle and thread are for the occasions you rip or blow out a tyre sidewall and you need to prevent the tube from herniating out. If you are putting in a tube then use the paper tissue to run round the inside of the tyre to find any thorns then use the pliers on the Leatherman to remove them. The pliers are also useful in removing/replacing the valve core.
Tyre plugs: fit the plug, use the scissors on the Leatherman to trim so that there’s about 3-4mm of the plug protruding then cover with superglue and allow to set - it should be about done by the time you’ve packed things away.
It sounds like GP5000TL are over built to have tiny bit smaller diameter to ensure tubeless tight fit and hence the difficulty getting on. This is not necessary when the I industry finally settles on a standard. Mavic UST road tires works well on Mavic UST because they are not overly tight. Mavic UST road is not a standard because no one else is using it.
I have the Roval CLX50s. Tire and sealant choice was a no brainer. The 28mm Specialized Rapidair 2Bliss and Specialized sealant. After hearing so many variable experiences with tubeless, I like the ability to run a “system” that was designed to be used together rather than crossing my fingers that different manufacturers play nicely together. The tire bead is designed for that rim. I was able to set up with just a floor pump. I could just be drinking the kool aid, but the sealant is marketed as being better for the higher pressures of road. The tires feel great. So plush yet fast. Running 60/65psi. I carry a dynaplug racer and tubolito spare to ensure I won’t need them.
Never was a fan of specialized tires. Light but never lasted long. How long have you got them?
I’ll have to Chek this option but the continental 5000 have my preference for now.
I’ve been on them for a few months. Couldn’t ask for more in the way of supple feel, great rolling resistance and grip- even on the wet, moss covered roads around PDX
I’m closing in on 2,000km on mine and they still have plenty of life. I’ve cleaned them out a few times and added sealant, but the tread is still in good condition. Don’t know if they’ll get to 4,000km like the other poster, but I’d say at least another 1,000km.
For my spare kit, I’m using a Specialized road bandit with 1 CO2, tube, levers, Allen key for thru-axle, and a $20 bill that doubles as a boot in a pinch.