@Quadzilla_Jr and @Westonite. I’m curious about the drum tension thing. I’m on a Kurt Road Machine and always do roughly the same 2.25 turns. Any less and I get tire slippage for sprints. So how much are you varying tension and how big an impact does it have on gearing at a given power?
I have a KK also. I have made adjustments during SS intervals, but nothing scientific. I monitor the cadence/ watts during warm up. If the sets seem to be aiming for a cadence/ gear ratio out of my “comfort” zone I will make a 1/4 turn adjustment or so during the 1st recovery period.
For instance if it looks like I am either going to be spinning at 96-97 or 89-90 I might make it a little tighter to drop the easier gear to 93ish.
Also, sometimes in the longer workouts it seems my cadence creeps up w the same power output. IDK if the viscosity of the fluid has changed or some tire tread has worn away, but I have tightened for that as well. During the recovery, of course.
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I might play around with my tension. I like the sound of that.
I get my cadence creeping up over course of intervals too. I’ve attributed that to: as I fatigue I’m putting just a little bit less torque into the pedal stroke, so to stay on target power the cadence must increase. Can see it proved too when I concentrate on the pedal stroke I can bring the cadence back down a few.
I go with 3 1/2 turns of tension. So far in ssbi and ssbii this year I have done almost all workouts in the same 3-4 cogs in my little ring (39t). I can change which cogs those are with a half-turn of tension either direction.
Depends on tire pressure, cadence, the individual, etc, but try using more/less tension to move where you are working in the cassette.
This all assumes a static tire pressure, of course.
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I feel your pain. I have a Keiser M3 that’s about 10 years old at the gym where I ride during the week that doesn’t connect with TR and watts are way off. I have to speed up to catch 5% then gear up and slow down for the next 5%.
My question to the masses and Powers That Be is: Since the computer on the Keiser doesn’t connect via bluetooth and will only give me an ‘average’. Useful for the 8 or 20 minute tests, but not so much for ramp.
For the ramp test, what’s the calculation for FTP based on the 1 minute power? Is it 1 minute power minus 10%? Is it super secret? Will I have to kill a hobo behind a 7-11 to gain access? 
My FTP based on the 20 minute test was 226 (on this bike) but today’s 1 minute power during the ramp test was 301, which as an FTP for me is untouchable.
Thanks!
- Ramp test calculation is 0.75 times your best 1-minute power.
Thank you! That helps.
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I thought I would revisit this thread as I took another crack at the ramp test this morning.
I will start by saying I forgot to calibrate my PM from Sunday’s outdoor ride and I also decided to back the resistance off on my Kurt Kinetic Road Machine. For anybody who uses this trainer I normally twist the resistance 5 half turns ( following the same nodule round ).
This time I backed off one nodule and I don’t know what effect this has had on my power. I ramp tested 10 watts higher at 310. I feel strong and rested but also don’t want to trust it as I wasn’t following my normal protocol…
I’ve tested low via the ramp test and a KK trainer three times in a row when comparing to a subsuquent 2x8.
My solution? Use the 2 x 8 test. Problem solved. Maybe it’s a mental thing but the ramp test doesn’t work for me. I’m not able to dig in to those last three minutes like I should I guess. Testing with the longer format allows me to express what is a clearer rep of my FTP based on successful workout completion. Bottom line is that I think the ramp test isn’t for everyone. I echo the OP concerns about finding the right gear etc
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What really matters is that you find an accurate ftp number to base your training off of.
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I agree with the consensus a close range cassette is the best solution. I actually bought an 11-23 specifically to use indoors on the trainer. I have a KK road machine. It has the capability for power but I don’t use it. I occasionally have trouble maintaining my preferred cadence but its mostly good with that setup.
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Just went through this thread and have a couple of questions. Many posts made the suggestion of a dedicated trainer tyre, I have just ordered one after shredding my last old road tyre. Will there be much difference with one of these or is it just a gimmick.
I have a KK rock and roll with the inride adaptor. When I did the ramp test for the first time (first time ever for this type of test)I failed pretty early and think I should do it again. I just want to know if I am supposed to be able to change gears during the test. Should I be in the big ring or small ring. I have done all my sessions in small ring this far. I think I have confused myself by reading stuff while thinking about doing it again
I also have a KK. With any non-smart trainer, you’ll have to shift as appropriate during your ramp test or any other workout. This is actually beneficial for riding with power on the road, because you are forced to learn how to shift to hit a desired power/cadence combo.
I would first pick your cadence (say, 90 rpms), then shift as required to hit the power target at that cadence. My ramp tests end in the 340-350 watts range, which on a KK means I need to be going 23-24 mph. So I start the test in something like my 39/19 gear, then shift down to the 39/14 or so, then doubleshift to 53/19, and my test generally ends when I’m at 53/14. I’m guessing on those exact gears, but generally I shift from my small ring to my big ring at some point during the test.
Again: Spin at 90 rpm or whatever, and shift as appropriate to hit the desired power number. I can usually find a gear that keeps my cadence withing 5 rpm of my desired cadence while hitting the desired power.
I used to have a dedicated tire, and it did slip a bit less than a normal tire. I’m not sure what it does to the power reported by the inride adapter… I have an older KK and use a crank-based powermeter (4iiii) to measure the power so I just use my old 23mm tires until they wear out. I have enough to last me several more seasons before I need to buy a dedicated trainer tire again.
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Both yes and no. The important thing about trainer tyres is that they’re totally slick/smooth in the center, sticky compound, pumped to maximum tyre pressure and then used clean with a high roller pressure. That way there’s no slippage, and when there’s no slippage there’s no shredding or wear either.
For me, Continental Ultra Sport 2 works indoor as well as outdoor. Harder/cheaper tyres, or when dirty or deflated (80 psi), have been wrecked in no time.
When coming back after an outdoor ride, i pump the tyre back up to 120 psi, wipe it quickly with a wet rag (some alcohol in it) and it’s ready for indoor use.
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