Need help with new Colnago Bike, especially the SRAM things?

I want to buy a new bike, I’ve fallen in love with the white V3R S, but I need concentrated advice from the forum here.

I would like to equip this Colnago with an electronic SRAM because Shimano is no longer available on the Hammerhead Karoo.

Well, my problem, I don’t understand all the electronic SRAM components.

Which SRAM should I use instead of the electronic Shimano Ultegra?

What about the power meter, I don’t want to swap my Vector 3 between old and new bikes all the time, is there anything reasonable from SRAM, but not the Spider?

First and foremost, how much does the SRAM power meter on the crank cost compared to pedals, or should I just buy Favero Assioma DUO instead?

I want to hold my budget so low as possible!

Any ideas?

You are asking some big meaty topics

If you are ordering the frame new - you should ask the shop for some quotes for the bike built up with Sram. Generally bikes built up from the manufacturer can be had at a lower cost new.

For road Sram has Rival, Force and Red, these generally compare to 105, Ultegra and Dura Ace. With Sram, Rival, Force and Red all have the same electronic internals, you are mostly paying for weight and finish. You can also mix and match much like Shimano so you don’t have to have all Rival or all Red.

For budget (which Colnago and budget are kind of a oxymoron) you could go Rival. Lots of fans on the forum of the kit. The Rival crank is pretty heavy so people will upgrade that to save some weight.

If you don’t want to move your pedals, get another set if you do not want crank spider power. I suggest just moving your pedals between bikes (I do) for consistency. Exact same measuring device on all bikes. If you have two devices you will constantly be worried if one measures +/- more than the other, you will be asking if drive train loss make a difference. Its mentally easier for me to just have one version of the truth.

Its a pretty bike - enjoy


The Bike is already in the store, but atm with Dura Ace DI2 with around 6.800 EUR, but they will do a change for me to SRAM when I want, it is possible that the price goes a bit down.

That means a SRAM Force is the middle ware of SRAM like Dura Ace?

I know the power meter thing, but I want go a new way without Garmin, in the meanwhile I hate them, so I replaced my Forerunner 945 to Apple Watch 7 as a Smart Watch and all the Health things are great, also Apple Fitness + is nice.
Edge 830 is replaced by Karoo 2 and this thing I love really, so I think I will try the Faveros on my new real Racing Bike, my old one is more or less a Cube Gravel Bike, so Power Meter only counts on Colnago.

Thanks for your great help! :nerd_face:

It follows along more like this, though Rival is electronic

Sram Red = Shimano Dura Ace
Sram Force = Shimano Ultegra
Sram Rival = sort of Shimano 105 (105 isn’t electronic)

I think your choice of Faveros pedals is a good one.


Thanks again, so Force will my choice

Something to keep in mind if you do Red is Im pretty sure the stock power meter is built into the chainring and not user removable. When the time comes that you need a new chainring, you also get the pleasure of buying a new power meter (someone correct me if Im wrong but Ive heard this echo’d a few times)

Im a big fan of sram electronic stuff. Have axs on my MTB, Di2 on the road bike. Theres things I like about both and id be perfectly happy with either on my road bike. Like the sram shifter ergonomics better, like the brake bleed process of shimano better. Theres people that will say sram stuff isnt as efficient as far as drivetrain loss goes. Theres a few pros that have said that and they keep regurgitating it since a pro said it. Havnt seen any objective proof of this, and even if it is a watt or 2, youll never notice it.

Swapping pedals is certainly the easiest but it gets old after a while. Ive done the same with similar stuff and after swapping parts a few times, I just bought a second set. One more roadblock in the way before a ride…

And most importantly, that paint job is the business!

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I’d rather have dura ace as long it was the latest 12 speed.

Take note of sram gearing. They are using smaller chainrings 46/33 and the 10 tooth cog in the back. I’d personally want to source 52/36. The pros get a special 53 or 54 setup. I guess they don’t like compact gearing either.

is of course a good argument, but I’m not getting any younger (52 years) and this raises the question of whether a lower translation might make sense after all?

I’m not sure about the crank length either, I’m currently 175mm, I want to improve on the mountain, would a shorter crank length help?

SRAM 48/35 crank is pretty standard although some endurance bikes I looked at have 46/33. It’s not a problem even for crits and fast group rides averaging 28mph. You can buy 50/37 or 52/39 or 54/41 for marginal gains.

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someone snatched the Colnago I wanted from under my nose, but whatever, my plan B is probably better:

Colnago C64 frozen silver
SRAM Force but Red Crankset
Wheels not 100% clear, but i get a murder price, they have a connection to a Pro Team, so Carbon Wheels instead of 2.000 EUR for arround 1.000 EUR

I get a new Tacx Neo Bike for my old Cube Gravel bike and my Tacx Neo 2 because the Colnago is too good for me to use with the Neo 2

Right now I’m like a little boy who can’t wait till the Bike is ready :innocent:

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What do you think about this Carbon Wheelset?

I dont want to throw a wrench in your plan, but did you consider Campagnolo for this C64?

Nothing gets me more excited then seeing a Colnago with Campagnolo on it, some Italian on Italian action wowza haha. This is coming from someone who doe not have Campagnolo and has rand Sram for the last 2 seasons.

I’ve never heard of Ursus but they appear to be rebranded Chinese wheels with Bitex hubs. 24/17mm width doesn’t seems a tiny bit undersized these days - optimzed for 23mm or 25mm wide.

Without some kind of exceptional warranty and support I’m not sure I’d pay 1200 euros for that wheelset.

Of course, I could be totally off base as I’ve never heard of this brand. :man_shrugging:

I never heard of them too, but my Bike Dealer told me they used by Pro-Teams, they are for sure produced in Italy, I get a really special price, around 600 EUR but it is the combo of the complete setup, will get the Bike complete within 7.000 EUR and as exchange of my 2 year old Cube Gravel Bike and my 4 years old Tacx NEO 2 a complete new Tacx NEO Bike.

As soon as the bike is finished I will post it here!

Sure, normally you have to use a Campa, but what I heard the Campa isn’t so good today, the new electronic one isn’t available today, you have to wait for 2023

Assembled in Italy, maybe. At the price you listed, it is probably open mould carbon rims, I.e. a rim manufacturer offers some rim shapes to anyone who wants them, and the buyer will put their own brand on the rims. Similar deal with the hubs.

This isn’t necessarily bad. Just don’t be fooled by someone saying they are made in Italy or the US or UK.

Probably not even assembled in Italy. Stickers applied in Italy?

Those appear to be Bitex hubs.

600 euros though and recommended by your bike shop is a good enough guarantee at that price IMO.

look here, they are sure 100% italian and use by Pro Teams:

Sure, an Italian company but they don’t say that any product is actually made in Italy. The hubs on the wheels appear to be Bitex hubs which are made in China.

It’s not a bad thing if they provide good support.

The equivalent of Shimano Ultegra Di2 is Force eTap AXS. They have slightly different gearing. If you typically run a 50/34 in the front, you want the 46/33 chainring, and I would pair that to a 10-33 or 10-36 cassette.

A 46/33–10-33 combo would give you the same gearing as a Shimano 12-speed setup with a compact crank (50/34) and their largest 11-34 cassette. Older 11-speed setups have smaller range. And if you used a 10-36 cassette, you’d have larger range than any Shimano road gearing combination.

Why not the spider-based power meter? According to the usual suspects, the Quarq DZero you are referring to is one of their references. I have had one for a year-and-a-half, and my experience with it is flawless. The only thing I had to do was change the battery twice.

I paid about $500 or $600 for, I think. It is cheaper than pedals.