Well, my Powertap Pro+ hub has died and will need to be sent in. I can upgrade/fix it for $350 but then I got thinking maybe I should change my power source. The Pro+ is laced to an old Mavic Open Pro rim, that still got lots of life left in it, and I use my Cycleops Fluid 2 to train with.
I was thinking maybe I should get a new power device, maybe power pedals, but then my partner mentioned why don’t I get a new trainer.
Anyways what would you do fix the Pro+ (cheapest option), get a new power meter (perhaps better going into future), get a smart trainer (but would then not have power outside - though I mostly do indoor).
And of course my hub dies in the middle of COVID-19 when I am home, when else would it bite the dust?
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I may or may not have read this as “Porn Hub” and wondered why it was on the TR forum.
Edit: To answer your question, I’d go with a newer PM. I’d rather have power inside and out than a smart trainer if I had to choose between them. A newer PM will also get you a more accurate reading since those hubs can be kinda wonky at times.
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Make sure to clear it with your CFO, but Assioma Pedals + a smart trainer, is I think the way to go. Which smart trainer depends on cost, hassle, etc. I’ve ridden Wahoo, which I have at home, Tacx Neo 2T, and Elite Direto. My least favorite was the Direto. I’ve no problems with my Wahoo which is a 2017 version, If budget weren’t an issue, I’d look at the Tacx. You can use powermatch so that your inside and outside numbers are in sync.
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ok, changed the heading and I had not heard the hubs were wonky for numbers,
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“Wonky” may not be the term I should’ve used there. Something like a pedal, spider, or crank PM will likely give you a more “accurate” number since you ultimately end up with some wattage through the drivetrain.
Assioma Pedals seem great, is it not over kill to have power and smart trainer? Price wise getting a new trainer and a new power meter might not work
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I don’t think its overkill. When I got into TR, I just used the trainer, but I started travelling for work and decided to get the pedals. Certainly with just the pedals and your trainer, you’re good to go, but I do all of my TR in Erg mode.
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Do you think the Pro+ is worth fixing? Or is that money better spent on something else?
I don’t know what that would cost or what the product life is. You been training with a “not so smart” trainer and a power meter, so I suppose to make an informed incision you need to know 1. Cost and reliability of repairing the Powertap hub, Cost of new power meter, cost of smart trainer. Then a conversation with your CFO. Best of luck going forward. I know that Assioma pedals are relatively inexpensive, and for me and most users have been pretty bulletproof.
What abiut fixing the PT hub and then also get a smart trainer? Cheapest option for the most training flexibility. Power inside and out.
The pt hubs have some negatives for sure, but their strength is accuracy and durability. I started with their hubs over 10 years ago and have 4 road wheels with pt hubs now, some i have re-laced into new wheels a couple times. The damn things just won’t quit. I went w crank-based power on my mtb and I would go crank-based for road if starting from scratch today, but those pt hubs work really well.
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I also started with a PT hub, a very old model, that died and I got a 2nd hand G3 and put it into a DT Swiss rim. As others have said they are accurate but a little inflexible if you have bikes with different group sets.
I now have Assioma Unos too and an Elite Zumo, both of these have had rave reviews from @GPLama and @dcrainmaker so that’s good enough endorsement for me.
The cheapest way (for a new/refurb device) is probably a single sided crank base power meter like a Stages or 4iiiis. You wouldn’t need to go without training that way either (I don’t know how long you would be without your wheel if you ship it back to Powertap). Do you use the wheel on multiple bikes? If so then that would make pedals or wheel a better bet than cranks.
Smart trainers are nice, and probably very tempting if you are locked inside for a while, but you are going to want outside power again at some point, so if you only have the cash for a trainer or a PM right now, and saving up for a PM by the end of lockdown is not feasible (or not getting past the CFO), then I would still go for the PM.
If you really like Powertap hubs, a cheap alternative might be to look for a secondhand one locally. Lots of people have been moving to disk bikes and have older wheelsets with no way of using them. I got a wheelset with Open Pro rims and a G3 hub for £100 last year (going on my 'cross bike). Obviously, this wheel might have problems too, so it’s not without it’s downsides.
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For £100 I think I’d chance it too. My first PT was a refurbished 2.4 from cyclepowermeters, lasted about 8 or 9 years before the readings started going awry. I liked the ability to move it between bikes easily and had carbon covers so I could TT with it
You didn’t hear that, because it isn’t true.
Lots of suggestions for both, power meter and smart trainer. I dont often hear people discuss wheel on smart trainers, if I were to fix the Pro+, then wouldn’t it make sense to use a wheel on trainer afterwards? I havent had any issues with the Pro+ plus before now, I have enjoyed using it, I only have the one bike.
Maybe fix the Pro+ and find a Wahoo SNAP (these seem to be a good option price and function) or something similar?
Any real down sides to this option?
The ‘one bike’ statement is key here.
the remaining powertap amp 35/50 wheelsets are going for 675.00 USD.
Sounds good to me. I would just set expectations in the right direction first - Quarq/Powertap can probably advise you on how quickly (or if) they can do a hub overhaul in the current environment, and exactly which wheel-on smart trainer you opt for might depend on what you can find in stock.
What about a Tacx Flux, Kickr Core, or a used Hammer (Can get a H3 20% off it you are an REI member through 4/6)? I think the ride feel of the wheel off trainers make riding indoors 1,000% more palatable.