IOS devices. Unfortunately, I don’t have any others. I bought a brand new iPad for this. My iPhone is the iPhone X. I also tried this on my wife’s iMac, which is years old
Applications: TR and the wahoo app
What’s bizarre is it works on my Cervelo P3
First - I don’t think it’s a bike thing - I think it’s just random when it works and doesn’t work based on the bluetooth connectivity. You’ve had both successes and failures with the Cervelo and had both successes and failures in different applications - this leads me to believe it has nothing to do with the bike. Set aside the idea that it works on one bike and not on the other until we see more consistency in functionality.
So there are a number of threads about various bluetooth connectivity problems on these forums, you should take a read through this one when you have some time. It seems that in some troublesome (read: very busy electrically) areas there is a lot of interference that makes bluetooth connections like yours problematic. You may want to consider trying an ant dongle in your iPad as a possible solution
But…since you won’t have that with you today or tomorrow I’d recommend the following
- Close all applications on your iPad and make sure no other devices in the area have any connections with the trainer (particularly for you I guess this would mean your phone). Easiest to just turn everything else off entirely.
- Load up a workout in TrainerRoad on the iPad, make sure it is paired with the trainer then put the iPad on the ground right next to the trainer - something super short but with power adjustments so you can tell if it is working correctly (Log In to TrainerRoad)
- Ride and see if everything works
You can try this with either bike, but if you swap bikes I’d recommend you use the same rear wheel so that you aren’t changing multiple variables at the same time
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Wow, thank you for your in-depth reply. When I get back home, I’m going to do all of this.
Good luck! You may well benefit from turning off a bunch of the other electronics in the area just to rule those out - things like your wireless router and microwaves (when running) can cause major problems.
Assuming everything works when you try the above steps you can try introducing variables one at a time. The easiest one is probably swapping bikes and making sure everything works with exactly the same electronic setup but the other bike - this should ease your mind on it working with one bike and not the other. Then you can start introducing other things one at a time
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Another thing to note…on the latest version of the snap spindown times are not relevant…doesnt matter if it is 10 sec or 30…just that there is no slippage…too much tension can throw everything off.
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Man that is a lot of headache with the Snap. I’ve used mine for 13 months with no issues and love it. Sorry, maybe you just got a lemon. No harm in just exchanging it for a new Snap.
Brother, I am understanding the opposite is true. Per the manual, if the spindown is under 9 sec, then loosen the knob. If greater than 16, tighten. Am I missing something? Also, not being a wise guy here, I’m just trying to educate myself
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My TR spindowns are in the upper teens, 18 maybe. You basically want it as loose as you can get the wheel without slipping. Any more is just creating extra resistance.
Good to know, bubba. Thanks!
That was for the pre 2017 snap…I tried to do that with mine at first and had problems…wahoo told me it didnt make a difference with the 2017, just that there was no slippage.
https://wahoofitness.yonyx.com/y/conversation/?id=5e52b780-ce0f-11e7-a177-bc764e10d166&h=1&st=0
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Awesome! Thanks
Brother, tried your suggestion, and did not work. I’m headed up to Seattle tomorrow to see my brother. Guaranteed, you will hear from me on here tomorrow after we are done tinking around. He has an ant dongle we are going to try as well. Thank you for your time today. It is much appreciated
Consistency matters if you’re using power to pace on different bikes. If I am doing 300W 20 minute efforts indoors I want to ride outdoors with a different PM holding 300W on a 20 minute climb. I don’t want to try to calculate the difference between PMs. So yes, consistency is the most important followed very very closely by accuracy.
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Dang, best of luck today. I’m concerned that you’re going to change a ton of variables at your brother’s setup - hopefully one of them will fix the issue
Okay gang, here’s the update:
Went to brother’s house, and we tried different applications, different servers, swapped from IOS to ANT, all to no avail. This rules out an IOS problem, a connection problem, a bluetooth problem, a tire slipping problem, a trainer tire problem, or a problem w/ connectivity at my home. Clearly, I have conducted a thorough troubleshooting on this unit. My brother and I then hooked up the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine up, and set the power meter up. Trainer Road shows me going about 8-10 watts lower than what the power meter reads, which tells me this is all w/in the margin of error, and verifies my hypothesis of my current FTP capabilities: this is a trainer issue and not my athleticism (this isn’t my complaint…my complaint is the ERG mode is not operable). The settings on the trainer were set w/ a 3-second buffer, as was the power meter. If I was pushing 100 Watts, the power meter read 108-112. When I pushed 250 Watts, the power meter read 258-260/261. The same thing happened when I pushed 300 Watts. This was all done on the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine and an outside-source power meter.
Now, what am I going to do about this? Wahoo has stated if I return my bad unit, they will charge me shipping; however, if I exchange the product, the shipping is on them. I am contemplating upgrading to their greatest machine available, the Kickr. What are your thoughts? I’ve heard of multiple people having failures (and success, too) w/ the Snap, and upon exchange, they are given another dud. If I had to make up my mind right now, I would exchange for the Kickr. I will make up my mind by Monday.
I want to thank you guys for your time on my thread. It is much appreciated. This is a neat group of people, and a great program. Trainer Road, you guys are phenomenal.
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You get a good star 
for the most comprehensive troubleshooting attempt on an indoor trainer 
. The Kickr (direct drive in general ) is superior to a wheel on as long as everything is working correctly. However, be careful with 2018 models, seeems to be lots of complaints. Hopefully by now they’ve worked out the bugs. Good luck!
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Upgrade to the wheel off Kickr. The latest model seems to be pretty reliable, quiet and accurate. You also save farting around with daily spindowns (after warming the trainer and tyre up) and pumping up your tyre.
You might want to join the Facebook Kickr owners group or whatever it is. You can then see what issues if any people are having with the latest Kickr models.
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I’d say that is debatable considering the large amounts of 2018 models with issues on display here and the Wahoo FB group.
The 2017 and earlier models were rock solid. But the 2018 have serious problems. It’s not every one, but notably higher number of issues than prior years.