Yeah I felt the same way, but as long as you’re training the right zones that’s all that matters.
You should definitely do an FTP test with the pedals to get an accurate setting.
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I had the same issue early on with my XC100 - it read low compared to my Stages left side. I typically don’t tighten pedals down too much - just “snug” for easy removal. I got out my torque wrench and tightened the Garmins to 34 nm and the readings are now more in line. I think having the correct torque on these is critical.
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Do you know where i can buy a garmin rally xc right pedal without sense?
Thanks
Does anyone have experience using these pedals across multiple bikes with different crank lengths? Is there a way to avoid having to go into garmin settings each time and adjusting crank length?
My gravel bike has 172.5 cranks and my XC bike is 170. These are the two bikes I expect to use these pedals on regularly. If it matters, I’m running the XC100’s (left side only).
I do it all the time, 2-3 times a week. Garmin 830 lets you change it in seconds. When ever i remount, I torque, adjust crank length, reset install angles and calibrate.
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Hello, I am planning to buy Garmin Rally RS200.
Since usually on the forum the people write in case of complains, I would like to ask here about all the positive experiences.
I like Shimano SPD-SL standard and the Assioma Duo-Shi have a too wide Qfactor. This is why I would like the Garmin.
Anyone really happy of the Garmin Rally, in the usage outdoor?
I would like to collect here the positive feedbacks.
Thanks
I moved your post under the existing one with lots of comments.
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I have the RS100 on my gravel bike and it has worked fine. I went with this option because I wanted something that would carry over to my new gravel bike regardless of which drivetrain I ended up with. The Garmin is very sensitive to installation with the correct torque etc. In fact I reinstalled my pedals this week and added an extra thin washer which I think threw off the readings despite being the correct torque.
If I had it to do over again I would get the Sram AXS crankset power meter which would be a cheaper option and lighter overall I think.
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I’ve had my rally xc200 since they came out and have riden in all type of conditions. Rain, mud, chunky rock gravel, single track and everything besides downhill Mtb. They’ve been very reliable for me, just install with enough torque and make sure to calibrate before each ride. They are expensive and for that I hope they last a very long time.
Here’s a pic of my bike after a CX race with the garmin rally xc200s installed and they still work fine!
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Got the XC100, but am unclear on how to install them with the specified torque (34Nm).
I have a torque wrench with a socket and a normal pedal wrench - do I need another tool to torque them to spec? This sounds like a dumb question, but can’t imagine everyone has a separate tool. 
Yes - you need a Park TWB-15 Pedal Wrench Crow Foot.
Just put them on to the point that you’re not sure you can get them off… terrible advice but it works.
Or buy the above!
Also note that the hole in that tool requires a bigger drive torque wrench than your typical cycling torque wrench will be. I had to buy both the tool above AND the wrench. It’s TIGHT, and now it’s almost impossible to remove the pedals with my little cyclist arms. I usually move pedals between bikes, and that was why i bought these. I planned to use them on my gravel bike, mtb, and indoors for power match, but instead they stay on just one bike because I can’t easily remove them. I think this was a really bad design choice and I would not buy them again.
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I already had a Park Torque wrench that went up to 60 Nm or so because I needed that for crankset installation when I installed my Stages crankarm power meter. The bigger wrench comes in handy to swap crank rings, etc.
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If you don’t mind clarifying why is it a bad reason to have “auto- zero” enabled? Also are you suggesting turning that option off and calibrate ever hour after about 2 hours? Thankful for your input on the pedals.
I tried this and REALLY wanted it to work, but the XPEDO pedals I bought squeak HORRIBLY and nothing seemed to stop it. Would you mind sharing which pedals you used and if you have any recommendations for the squawk? I’ve asked others and the only recommendations were dry lube, which didn’t work.
Good question. Those shoes don’t squeak with other pedals, but it could be something specific to those two paired. I’ll have to give them a shot with my winter boots and see what happens.
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If any of you guys who are UK based are interested in the Rally pedals then give me a shout. I’ve taken mine off the bike and won’t be using them any longer so they’re going to be up for sale.
They’re the RK200 Keo compatible dual sided pedals which are currently switched across to the MTB SPD pedal bodies.
PM me if you’re interested…
Hi Shane,
Any new pedal based power meters on the horison with SPD SL support ?
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Hi Shane, Can you explain us when and how auto-zero works with the Rally XC200 ? When I ride my mtb, can I auto-zero it by turning the cranks backwards 4 times ? I suppose that is only for my Quarq. So with the XC200 I have to stop and calibrate them with my Garmin Edge 830 ? Do the cranks have to be horizontal or vertical or does this not matter ?
Thank’s !