Many thanks for the quick response… no idea how small the app will allow but hopefully 155.
Regards.
For sure, you should change your crank arm length to whatever cranks you’re riding on. Having an incorrect crank arm specified will definitely have some impact on reported power.
You can change the crank arm length via your Garmin head unit once you have paired the pedals. Also, after swapping bikes, and changing your crank length, you need to ‘stomp’ (couple of hard sprints) on the pedals for a short time before you zero offset and start riding.
Just to add on, there’s a bunch of useful info here for new users…
I would record power of your Assioma pedals on a head unit and compare it to the power of your stages , dc rainmaker has analisys tool to do this easily this way you can compare the two and Know the difference . If you are only going to use the Assiomas in the future I would retest also .
As for the balance I find for me the lower the power the more is stray from 50/50 the closer I get to ftp or higher my balance is around 50/50! Maybe keep an eye on this and pay attention to you balance when power is low
Same experience here with the Assioma DUO and Tacx Neo. I’ve had them for about a year now. I don’t do power matching anymore for the simple reason that I got tired of changing them so often when I ride outside. I leave them on my outside bike.
Xpedo MTB bodies … wow! I didn’t know you could do that. Could you tell me more? I do randonneuring and prefer mtb bodies (we faff around a lot at controls). We can just change the bodies?
Edit: Seem to be able to push more watts outside than inside, but I attribute that to problems with heat inside. Outside climate is nicer.
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I am totally doing this next MTB season.
They don’t rub all the time, far from that, just if my foot pivots that way, and by the way I’ve got the cleats adjusted properly after about an hour of measuring and tweaking. The difference is with the Ultegra pedals and yellow cleats, they never allowed for as much rotation, so my shoe could not physically rub the crank even if my foot was rotated all the way in, whereas these allow for more float and I can see in certain situations like maybe when sprinting or pushing out of the saddle that my foot may rub on the cranks.
Good price on these if you have been on the fence…
Inverse ratio of crank lengths.
Someone already answered with regard to the length. I just wanted to add that it is the value you have entered in your computer (Garmin, for example) that counts. It overrides whatever you have entered in the app. So the value in the app doesn’t really matter all that much. The one that will be used is the one you set in your bike computer. It will be there, you just might have to look for it.
Thanks !! I believe I can set up different profiles on my 520 to include both road and TT and set crank lengths accordingly. At this time of the year I am exclusively indoors and have not been using the 520 but clearly need to get started.
Cheers.
I don’t see the option for crank length in my Wahoo so just set it through the app. I’m the default length anyway
Yes great review by DC Rainmaker… part of the reason I bought them. I’ll begin to explore the new analysis tools and the value it adds. Really got these to increase the accuracy of my training and document any improvements. Glad I found the forum because of the information here !!
Many thanks.
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It’s not real easy to find in a Garmin either. I click on a “bike profile” and get things like wheel diameter, weight and if I scroll down, I find “crank size”. I would have expected it under the parameters to the power meter, but I don’t find it there.
Problem is that you don’t know what the “default” is in your Wahoo. It will override the default in the app.
I thought it was configured through the sensor pairing area itself where you would calibrate it, at least i think its that way for Garmin. I’ll check in the companion app for the Wahoo tonight, but I did set it to 172.5 in the Favero app anyway since I don’t use my bike computer for Zwift, TR, etc. but I still want an accurate value for those, especially for TR where I aim to get the most quality
That’s what I would have thought too (and did, but never found it there) on an 810, but I find it at: settings->bike profiles->“bike name” and then when I get to that screen, I click on the bike name one more time to get to the parameters like wheel size, weight and crank length.
Yeah, you’ve got me thinking now. Since TR doesn’t have a setting for crank length, I better make sure it is set properly in the app. I forgot about that. I’m so used to using the computer, but I don’t use it with TR either … thanks for the wake-up for me.
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I may be wrong, but crank length is usually stored in the pedals, and will remain at that setting until it’s changed by another app.
Not sure if the Garmin interaction and bike setup will impact that?
There is a deafult value that you can set in the pedal but that will be overridden by the computer if it supports the feature. This makes it much easier to change the crank length whan you swap between bikes. On a garmin this is stored on a bike by bike basis rather than as a sensor setting.
Mike
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