Your shoes don’t touch the forged body. They touch the stamped metal. Not sure if they use Ti for that in the pro version.
As said, the really important part is making sure your shoe does not touch the power pod. It won’t necessarily be obvious during riding, but if it does, it can cause your pedal to unthread or cause damage to the power meter.
So make sure there’s good 1/4” clearance between shoe and pod. I had to trim the rubber on my gravel shoes quite a bit, but they have walking treads surrounding the cleats. If you use a road shoe, you are unlikely to have that issue.
Did you use the oil seal from the CXRs on the inside when doing the swap? Apparently some people leave it off, because it won’t really fit.
I have the CXRs but am hesitant to do the swap.
Also, I find them a bit difficult to unclip. Well, the unclipping itself is ok but my shoe then is somehow still entangled in the pedal and it takes some wiggle to get it free (Shimano RX8 shoes). Anyone else experience this? Could different cleats help?
So far I am happy with using the unmodded pedals on my gravel bike, but walking sucks obviously.
I haven’t looked at the hack thread in a long time. Are you seeing others with this issue? This is the first I’ve ever heard of it after reading hundreds of posts.
Thanks, great schematic. Must have missed it on the other thread. I am confident to give it a try now.
I experience the entanglement issue predominantly on the left side, so it may be an issue of exact cleat placement with these shoes. I will try the SH-51 cleats which @Pbase suggested to see if they work better. If not, maybe cutting a little bit of the shoes’ tread to give the cleats more space could help.
