Different Power Meters

Sorry if this is a repeat topic…I know that my bike meter is showing much higher than my spin bike.

Is there a way to offset/adjust power meters?

Almost all have offset except Stages. It’s in the app for the power meter usually.

I just deal with it.

CTL/ATL are not telling you what’s going on with your body – they are just attempts to quantify fatigue. Your body is telling you what’s going on with it.

As for hitting watt targets, adjust up or down to what the gizmo says. Looking at HR also plays a role here, as does PE. Power is just one part of the feedback loop.

Can confirm 4iiii and Quarq definitely do. In app settings.

I am still trying to work out the best protocol to work out a scale factor so these two units read the same as my third unit, which is an Infocrank, and doesn’t have a scale factor.

Yes. PowerMatch is the best way to use your bike PM numbers to drive the resistance on your trainer. Which means you trainer numbers and outdoor numbers should be comparable.

Note that PowerMatch works better on longer intervals than it does for shorter intervals.

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My spin bike isn’t a smart trainer. It’s a Keiser mi3. There is no option to power match. My outdoor road bike is a Garmin Vector 3 pedals with a Garmin 820.

Both power meters claim accuracy with Keiser being ISO certified (EN957-10 certification) and the Garmin being a good name also claiming 1% accuracy. But the power on the Keiser is ~20 watt lower. Keiser claims not to need calibrating unless you take it apart.

Suggestions?

Rejoice!

Obviously the spin bike is the problem.

lol…it’s this constant fight. I ride the Keiser get sore and depressed as I struggle to meet power number (although I do my FTP on the Keiser I find TR hard). Then I get on my bike and feel like a god,

However, I just like semi accurate numbers. It’s a shame you can’t just put a +20 watt into TR somewhere and it shows it up/down on the TR software. Not all of us have smart trainers.

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You would expect the trainer to measure lower because of drivetrain losses. 5-10W would be common, up to 20 with a dirty drivetrain.

The Keiser is pretty new, very few moving parts and used only indoors. What do you mean by a dirty drive train?

Are you Pedals dual or single sided PM’s

The Garmin Vector are dual. The Keiser is built in to the unit somehow, but I can’t say.

How did you calculate it was 20 watts - putting your Garmin vectors onto the spin bike itself?

Yes

Given the Vector 3’s don’t need any calibration, it’s quick enough to put them on your spin bike for each session anyway, and then you have consistent power readings indoor and out.

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I’m using a Favero Be Pro S on my bike which is on my Turbo but a cheaper Avio Powersense outside. The first gen Avio can drop out a bit and reads a little low. I just live with it for the money it gives me good data to look at post ride :slight_smile:

I think you mean they don’t need specific torque specifications, like the V1 and V2 with the pods did.

You still need to Zero Offset (often called Calibration, but they are really different) each time your ride, for best results.

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Yep , that’s what I meant :wink:

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God this is driving me crazy. I just did a “275” TSS on my Garmin Vector 3s in a 2 hr ride. It was really difficult Cat 1 climb, but not 275 difficult.

I’ve got to contact the manufactures of Keiser and Garmin and sort this out somehow. No power match option for me.