Crank Length, Achieving Mastery, DOMS and More – Ask a Cycling Coach 287

They did not…at the end of the podcast they said they would save this topic for later. They did have a rapid fire question in the next episode (288) towards the end about their favorites bars, gels, etc. but it wasn’t a “healthy snacks” topic.

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Thanks! Thought I might have missed it :wink:

I know a few people with this too, and we were all surprised to find we have this in common! It seems like a very odd idea: to be allergic to cold. But it makes sense once you know it’s a thing. The weirdest part was when my doctor told me never to jump into a cold body of water all at once, because I could go anaphylactic! He strongly suggested I take ranitidine with me when I swim, just in case. Totally blew my mind. High fives to not feeling alone!

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high five :blush: I know, such an odd idea eh!

The not jumping into a cold body of water thing, I discovered that the hard way…

On a cold day in the UK I jumped into the very cold sea and swam around for a bit. When I came out my whole body came out in hives and I went into anaphylactic shock and blacked out. Fortunately I was ok, but it was pretty scary for a moment!

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Interestingly there seem to be quite a few UK TTers I know doing the opposite. The thinking is that if you already have a decent position from which you can generate good power with 175s, then if you reduce crank length to 165 you can lower your saddle by 10mm and still keep the same hip angle and therefore power at the top of the pedal stroke. Also lower the front end by the same amount you drop the saddle, in order to keep the same back angle. By doing this you should still be able to generate the same power as before, but your whole position is now vertically 20mm more compact than it was before - your upper body is 10mm lower, and at the bottom of the pedal stroke your feet are 10mm higher. Which apparently tests well since you’ve got less frontal area.

Of course if the reason for switching is that you’re losing power on 175mm cranks because your hip angle is too tight, and/or that optimising your hip angle for power is preventing you from achieving an optimally aero low position at the front, then you wouldn’t want to lower your saddle to replicate those same problems. But there may still be a middle ground - e.g. keeping the same saddle height while switching cranks will open up your hip angle for more power while still reducing your frontal area by reducing how low your feet go by 10mm at the bottom of the pedal stroke.

I had to re-find that area of the podcast to track it down :slight_smile:

For winter riding with flat bars I highly recommend handlebar mitts. Unlike heavy gloves they don’t make controls harder to use and I was able to ride without gloves in temperatures well below freezing.

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Yup, commonly called ‘poggies’, these are worth every penny. I have the Bar Mitts and can wear a regular glove in full comfort even in the coldest weather.

They are also available for roadies, with a cover for the hood position, that i need to grab.

Another trick I did is to wrap my brake lever in a single layer of a cut-up road tube, and held with electrical tape. Wrap from the open end towards the hinge, and hold with the tape. That thin layer of rubber is still easy to grab, but keeps you away from the otherwise cold aluminum lever.

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