I’ve been running one on my original AXS 12 MTB for about a month now and no issues at all as expected. Just like the 11 spd on my Di2 bike.
I plan to try this link on my Eagle Transmission bike in the next week or two but have some medical issues I’m waiting to sort out. Will report back on results.
You can get these links (in the US) cheaper, no tax and free shipping directly from Cantitoe Road.
Yeah, I pulled out a fresh AXS rival chain and a fresh connex12 link to try fitting. The rollers are a non-issue since the quicklink doesn’t interface there. The rivet pins appear to be the same diameter and fit snuggly. The problem is the connex12 link is slightly wider than the AXS chain (the pin is longer). The gap is visually obvious and yields noticeably more more lateral flex. And the connex closure is very loose. On my 11s waxed chains it fits quite snuggly. My take: it probably would work fine until you start taking it for granted, then suddenly fail, surprising the heck out of you at best.
Who knew it would be the overall width that would be an issue. I would have expected 12s chain width to just be a static thing. So stupid.
Here’s another waxing tip: Never throw away the odd bits of chain you removed when sizing. All the times handling a chain off the bike when waxing, you can lose a roller. I just lost one. Fortunately, I just went to my spare links and snagged one. I figured I’d post about it here in case it ever helps someone.
Thanks for confirming, and good to know. SRAM definitely went their own way with the Flattop chain, I think the size of the rollers had been consistent basically forever. Marginal gains, I guess?
Commercial sense, locking you into the Flattop ‘system’.
I wish people would stop sharing that guy’s videos…
That wax pot -
Ah, look, a new reason the proprietary flattop chain is dumb:
Really a shame to introduce a new failure mode to such a basic part.
Well I guess that it why it is called a flattop and not a flatbottom 
better name is flat outside then, not that that would make the design choice any better.
Shimano 12s chains are directional, based on which side the logos are stamped on. I’d argue that SRAM’s approach is much, much harder to screw up.
I’ve been using Chain Wax since few months now
Before re-waxing I usually clean the chain with a towel if it is not dirty, hot water if it’s dirty, Hot water and degrease if seruoisly dirty.
Nontheless, the wax pot has some residuals in it which look like black dust, is there a way to remove them?
Or should I just wait till they’re an issue (when tough?) and then scrap the whole wax?
After waxing the chain still looks very clean
That black residue is almost certainly the additives that improve wax performance and longevity; you don’t want to remove them!
How often you change your wax is a perennial debate, but I generally use a pot for a year of regular waxings with a pre-wax cleaning regimen similar to yours.
There is no need to degrease after you’ve done it the first time. If the chain is very dirty, rinse it off well with boiling water
What’s wrong with him?
The “grease conversion powder” is interesting. It sounds exactly like the Silca system. Silca doesn’t seem to invent anything but usually improves upon existing tech and give it to cyclists at a price.
Google Steven John Leffanue
I see - dog beating creep. Ok.
Still, I find it pretty interesting that he’s busted Silca’s process with Grease Grabber!
https://www.amazon.com/Grease-Grabber-Oil-Solidifier-Powder/dp/B0B91BQ5WC/
https://www.amazon.com/Waste-Cooking-Oil-Powder-Package/dp/B088LWBK26/
Holy hell…I knew nothing about the guy, but will absolutely never watch a single video of his.
+1