Easily solved by using a slacker wax mix, the likes of Tru Tension, Squirt or the new UFO Drip Wet Conditions. The down side is slightly higher wear and a dirtier drive train, but you’d still be ahead of every wet lube 
Thanks I will look at that
I’ve been using Absolute Black graphing drip -not the hot immersion wax. It’s expensive but I really feel it stays for 7-900 miles. It’s absolutely awesome on mountain bikes. Also tried Rex Black Diamond drip and it awesome as well. Just let both dry overnight and on reapplication.
I wanted to share a small trick I figured out, to help put a newly waxed chain back on.
Quick links can be challenging to get on, with the extra wax that is still on the chain links. I use a small pair of vice grips to lightly hold the quick link in place. Then I use the quick link pliers to lock the quick link.
The vice grips give just enough pressure to push through the excess wax. The quick link locks with a satisfying click.
Has anyone broken a quick link? I have been reusing mine from various manufacturers (SRAM, YBN, KMC, etc.) and levels (Red22, 1170, 1130, E11, SLA110, Ultegra w/YBN master link, etc.) with no problems. I cycle through my chains every one to two weeks or so, depending on the hours used. Most of the use is indoors. Per chain, I have reused the link per chain at least 20 or more times (I keep the chain in a closed loop while off the bike for storage). I don’t have that high of a top end, ~1150w, don’t sprint much or work on the higher end, and I have a pitful FTP currently @ ~210.
The only chain I have broken was a brand new 7-speed chain installed at a LBS. Old school, no master link. I was too lazy and brought it in for a tune-up. I left the shop with the top cap of the headset loose (guess they had never seen a Stronglight roller-bearing headset), all my spoke loosened and less true than when I brought it in (hand built by your’s truly in 1990 and was probably on mile 30k or so), and the chain that broke while I was standing up on a climb. luckily nothing bad happened. I have been servicing my bike since.
I’ve had the pin come out of a quick link once (it was loose so I wiggled it and was able to push it back through the hole) but never anything while riding. I have a general rule that if I don’t get a positive click when using a pair, I throw it away. I also keep the pairs together so I’m not mixing and matching differently used ones
I used a bottle of drip wax in between dips this summer and have concluded that I might as well never lube my chain and replace when worn for the same price.
Now I just went back to throwing them into the crockpot earlier and am left to wonder why people use the Silca drip stuff.
If you wax your chains you really only need a wax based lube like Silca SS for a road bike. I have 4 chains in rotation and swap one every month. In between I drip wax every 100 miles. Keeps the drive train ultra quiet. I can sneak out of the house for a ride, wheeling my bike backwards without waking the dog.
There’s definitely a knack to applying drip wax, but especially SSS. I had a couple of bad experiences before getting it right, at which point it was similar to dunking the chain 
I get that. But the bottle costs the same as a new chain and it needs to be replaced more often.
It’s not just about the chain. It’s also the cassette and sprockets.
I’m reaching the point where I think that just doing immersion waxing and swapping the chain every time it needs it ends up being less hassle and mess than using any of the drip options to top up… They all seem prone to mess & splatter on the bike / floor when backpedalling.
100 miles between each drip re-waxing seems ultra short and makes the benefits of waxing pointless, you should be able to last 3-4x that easily, at least in dry conditions.
100 miles is less than normal oil based lubes last just fine, waxing is meant to reduce this faff.
Still far cleaner. but 250km with squirt top ups (done outside via the workshop size bottle) keeps me rolling and sets up the batch cycle of re-waxing training (pot that everything goes into with minimal cleaning) vs. race chains. (pot that only the most pristine chains go into…)
Attempted my first chain waxing.
A new Ultegra 11-speed chain. 12 hours in 3 mineral spirits bath, 5 minutes in denatured alcohol, then I used Silca Secret Chain blend in an instant pot. Once the wax was hot and melted I dipped the chain in and turned off the heat. Sat in there for 15 minutes and I took it out before a skin formed and let it dry.
Here are the results after a quick 15 minute spin on the trainer:
Sounds crunchy and the wax looks like dead skin peeling. Not sure if that is the correct look or it is and I need more time to ride it for it to settle.
Edit:
I am an idiot and I was routing the chain OVER the tab between the two jockey wheels as opposed to under on the rear derailleur. I realized this after reapplying the wax and still getting the same noise. 
Now I know for next time.
I did this exact same thing my first time. Don’t worry about it!
That’s absolutely perfect.
I personally wait until the first signs of the skin forming to take the chain out so there’s less dripping and less chance of wax coming out from inside the links and whatnot. Then once it’s dry I break off the obvious wax excess onto the now solid wax pot.
Great catch!
I suspect we’ve all done that one time. I know I did it the first time I put my chain back on after my first wax. Good thing is that the horrendous noise it makes makes it REALLY easy to remember to pay closer attention next time!
As others have said, this is normal behavior with wax… Keep in mind also that you’ll get MORE of this if/when you allow the wax to cool and form that skin before removing your chain.
Personally, I’ve waxed both ways… allowing wax to cool and then pull the chain vs. pull chain out at full temp (the latter is the ZFC recommended procedure, IIRC). Only difference i’ve found between the two is the amount of wax that flakes off onto my chainstays.
From a runnability/efficiency/noise/longevity perspective, i see no difference. But then again, I don’t push the envelope between re-waxes either. I typically pull the chain and re-wax at ~200 miles (less if caught out in wet weather).
YMMV, of course!
Same here, I even took it to my LBS to get fixed.
I believe Adam @ ZFC has said that Squirt uses a different type of wax base. Apparently Silca, UFO Drip etc emulsified waxes play better together with immersive waxes.
Anecdotally I noticed that the chain on my trainer was building up a load of dirty, waxy gunk when using Squirt, while the higher quality waxes only shed in tiny flakes from the chain. I place a sheet of paper under the cassette/jockey wheels and sweep the flakes into the wax pot for bonus satisfication!
For safety, I follow ZFC’s advice not to wax the quick link. That way, there’s no wax build up preventing the quick link locking together. Who knows, but this could have contributed to the issues @Jonathan experienced.