I had been having an issue with my chains not lasting long. I use to pull them out of the hot wax right way, when the wax was still hot. It def helps when you pull them out and they are closer to 140-130 degrees, more wax is left in the links. I just rode 160miles and chain could go more miles.
I just put the chain in a strainer, pour boiling water over it, dry it by hand…drop it in a bottle of rubbing alcohol & shake it…let it dry…then plonk it in the Squirt bottle & put it back into the rotation.
If I know I’m going to be riding in wet muddy conditions I wax. My experience is Squirt doesn’t have enough staying power to protect/lubricate the chain in wet conditions for the duration I need it to perform. I’ve had a freshly broken in chain lubed with squirt measure well beyond ‘replacement stretch’ after only 142 miles of wet gravel racing. That experience always stuck in my mind.
Just did a series of gravel races in wet muddy conditions. This is what my drive train looked like. It was waxed. This is after 240 miles of riding.
This is where the Silca Super Secret drip really shines: 99% of the performance of a wax with none of the tedium. I prepped my chain once, dripped on the liquid wax, massage it into the rollers, and let it cure for 24 hours. Surface wipe after each ride, drip on new wax once per week.
I’ll likely settle on a combo of Silca SS wax drip lube and their hot melt max.
Hot melt periodically, and before long rides. And the drip lube between waxing intervals.
I’d like to try the new black wax since that would be a similar situation but ostensibly a much more durable lubricant than Silca (or any other) if you believe the data. However, one of the ‘problems’ with wax is that a little supply lasts flippin’ forever. My current wax pot is probably good for another decade. 
As an aside I once crewed for a friend who was trying to RAAM qualify. He had a looong chain & when we started I was all like, ‘Performance matters. We’re going to use Squirt.’ After applying a drop of Squirt to every roller on a 9 foot chain a couple of times I was all like, ‘Ok. If you want to just wax it that’s fine with me.’ 
The AB lube is the top performer. AB wax is not. The lube requires an immersive application. And is expensive.
Is the preparation for drip wax different than for hot/submerged waxing? Do you still need virtually all the grease removed? I’ve been waxing for the last two years, but I don’t want to use a quick link with the new 12s Campy chain.
Still need everything removed yes. Why no quick link with campy 12s? I don’t think you can run a pinned chain on Sram/Shimano at all anymore because it could protrude from the sides of the links
You sound more confident than you should be! 
Assertion duly noted…evidence?
You want the new lubricant to penetrate the small spaces in the chain (in the rollers, etc). It won’t if those spaces are already occupied by some other (often more viscous) lubricant. So…gotta get that stuff out of there first.
It’s mostly an emotional and irrational decision. 
The bike is brand new and I’m trying to keep it as “genuine” as possible while the honeymoon lasts. I should have noted that the drivetrain is Campy also. There’s also that I’d preferably get a Connex quick link, but I haven’t found any 12s available for sale, although Wipperman advertise them on their website.
I guess Campy is taking a page out of the FIAT playbook to make their stuff as irreparable as possible on the side of the road in case of emergency. I get not wanting to “mix components” when you have a choice: I wouldn’t willingly run sram links on my Shimano chain or vice versa unless I had an emergency, but you don’t have a choice because Campy are all boomer about quick links being weak or whatnot. Bummer
No direct experience. Just going from ZFC.
9 foot chain….was this on a recumbent or something?
If using Squirt in dry conditions, do you ever spray off your bike?
If so, do you ever find that the chain is tacky? Is this problematic. Feels like “sticky wax” if I had to describe it.
Can I just reapply Squirt over top of this tackiness and assume it’s doing the job?
Use case = MTB, waxed chain, applied Squirt, worked great, rode through one mud puddle, dirty bike, hosed off, blew dry with fan overnight, tacky in morning.
If you use a drip lube over the top of the wax application, you should boil water, restrip the chain and rewax it.
If you need something for like a 24hour MTB race, you would wax, apply Smoove/Squirt over the top and when done restrip and start over.
I never spray my bike.
Yes! It will get a little gunky to the touch & if it’s on the trainer it will throw off little dark nodules onto the floor. That means it’s time to throw it in the ultrasonic with some solvent and clean it off. This is just something I do out of personal preference. Can’t honestly say there is objective data to prove it makes the chain faster/slower or last longer.
I’d just be guessing. Don’t know for sure. Just like to keep the chain & drivetrain clean & I’ll admit it’s for non-data-derived reasons. A dusty bike with a sparkling drive train is aesthetically the best look for a bike IMO. Plus, I bought an ultrasonic cleaner so I like to fool myself into thinking it’s important to clean the chain in an ulrasonic cleaner fairly often…otherwise I spend ~$100 on some equipment that doesn’t get used that often. (what sort of goofball does that?? I’m no goofball…so for sure it must be necessary to ultrasonic clean the chain often)
Here is what I do know for sure (though it’s not my data): if you clean a chain thoroughly, immerse in Squirt, break in the chain, roll up to a crit, take the bike out, put on another application of Squirt just before warming up…there’s no faster lube. Never seen this approach vs a dusted chain or some of the newer lubes (graphene or silca) but if you use a fresh application of Squirt on a broken in chain it’s fast, fast, fast. But even then we’re talking a ~hundred milliwatt difference.
Even though Squirt lube is a wax emulsion?