That’s a good idea, I’m gonna get one of those. I normally set a timer on my phone and of course got distracted and forgot to do that. Thanks for the tip.
BlockquoteThat’s a good idea, I’m gonna get one of those. I normally set a timer on my phone and of course got distracted and forgot to do that. Thanks for the tip.
I have several around the house and love them for scheduling, automation and remote control of devices. They are my cheap and feeble entry into the smart home arena 
I think the general guide is that if the wax is discolored (yellowish), it’s been damaged. I’d expect damage more from exceeding a temperature limit rather than length of time. Problem with some wax blends is that it looks like it might be hard to see if the base wax goes yellow - Silca’s blend is pretty black due to the friction modifiers, and it could be difficult to see on this one.
I get around 300-500 miles depending on riding conditions (road or gravel). MTB I go by hours - usually around 10-15 hours.
I have 4 chains in rotation. When the last clean one goes on the other three get a quick douse with boiling water and then into the crock pot. I do need to get a 120v potentiometer for my crockpot though as I suspect low is too high. Going to have to check that next time I have it on to be sure.
I think people wax their chains, and then top it up with squirt during the event, without letting it dry. I haven’t tried that, but I think the theory is that the liquid stuff will go into the gaps where the harder wax has worn away, but as you don’t need to re-coat the whole chain, adherance is a bit better.
The wax is probably not actually “hard” while your riding the bike anyway. I would think the friction heat in the chain would keep it relatively soft, so it will probably mix with the new liquid stuff quite well. And riding it will also make it dry.
That being said, I’ve done all my longer events on new chains with factory grease to avoid any problems.
I have also started to run the new UFO Drip, and really like it!
One thing I have noticed though is that its not super quite, so you can definitely hear a little bit of “metal” noise of the drivetrain… At least with my GRX system!
On my Venge on the other hand its suuuuper silent usually. Or there is just too much wind noise 
How often do you top it up if you ride gravel?
And do you clean it with just warm water or with something else?
Around every 200k on Gravel an dirty, with a complete deep cleaning around every 1000k
A little noise isn’t even that bad. Oil based lubricants are usually more silent as they dampen the chain „better“. While this may sound very fast, this is apparently one of the main culprits in slowing down the chain/ i.e. creating friction.
Therefore, a louder chain does not necessarily mean a slower chain.
Anyone had issues with a YBN Quick Link sticking? I seem to have great results from using Molten speed wax but had to change to a different quick link after the first one would just not stop skipping. I did dip them in the wax. The 2nd quick link worked well for a single z2 session but then started acting up again today. I had to stop my ride 4 times to bend it around and try to free it up as it was causing noise and sometimes would skip off the cassette.
I coated it in a wax drip lube after the ride to see if it will improve next time.
Any tips?
I used to use them on my 11 spd Shimano drivetrains because they were reusable which really helped keep the cost down. I never had any problem with them in dozens of chain changes. Maybe a bad batch?
I’ve since switched to the Connex Link just because they last a long, long time and can be joined/unjoined in seconds with no tools.
I’ve had this with one YBN link, and just threw it away. Probably a tolerance thingy, with the link being too tight. My other YBN links worked just fine.
What are you guys using for quick links and how long are they lasting? I managed to remove and install my Shimano 11s about 8 times before it started feeling looser, the SRAM EAGLE links seem more stout. I was looking at the Connex but seems expensive and also has a finite lifespan
I use Connex and I replace them with the chain. They feel solid the entire time. I’m no sprinter though, so there’s that.
I use Connex too, like @Slowsher
They last the chain and have unlimited connections as they don’t rely on friction, but rather geometry, to stay in place. Brilliant design. No tools needed to remove or install.
Well dousing it in silca secret drip and lots of wiggling and working it in seemed to do the trick. Was nice and smooth today.
Sorry if I missed it, but do any of you allow the wax to cool a bit before taking the chain out. I have been experimenting with heating the chain in the wax to 200F and then turning off the pot for about the wax reaches about 120F. There is definitely more wax that sticks to the outside, and I think it sounds quieter for longer, but there are also a lot more wax flakes on my chainstays and derailleurs.
I recently switched from Dura Ace 11 to a SRAM flat back 12 speed and I have found the chain does not seem to stay as quiet for as long as the DA did. Does anyone have experience with that?
I pull the chains out when the wax reaches 150F. There is very little dripping that happens at this temperature. Two freshly waxed chains this evening:
I have noticed the same thing with SRAM eagle 12 speed vs Shimano 11 speed. I think it’s due to the SRAM chain tolerances being tighter, and less wax can penetrate.
I can’t speak to mineral spirits, but I use jars of gasoline to strip chains and I’ve had it take many many days for cloudiness to settle. Smaller/lighter particles will take longer to settle out. I’d imagine you just need to give it more time to settle.
Sorry to dredge this up. I have a question that maybe you can answer, @brennus. Or anyone else!
Could you tell me how to use Squirt lube on a chain that’s already been waxed, but then ridden and dirty? Do I just wipe off the dirt/dust with a dry rag and then drip Squirt Lube all over it like I typically would with any other drip lube?
I prefer not having to re-clean, and re-wax my chain regularly and have heard many folks use Squirt as their primary. I have loved using the waxed chain that came on my new MTB. Very long-lasting and low-maintenance.
Second question: How does this process change if muddy, as compared to dry/dusty? Is squirt out the window and I must use a full waxing process with crockpot?
I just wash my chain with hot/warm soapy water, wiped it dry (or let dry) for a bit, then re-lube with squirt. Some people do not like using water, but its simple and works well for me.
The only thing to be careful of is to not let the wax-less chain sit around in humid conditions for too long, because it will start to rust.
To re-lube, make sure the chain is pretty dry (or the wet wax will just run off), put a big drop of squirt on every roller on the inside, and rotate the cranks a few dozen times. Then let dry until the wax has gone clear/is dry before using again.
Forgot to say, its rarely dusty around here, so that’s what I do with muddy or grimy chains. If there was just a bit of dust on it, I’d wipe it down with a cloth and relube directly.