Recently got my first Ti bike, a Sage Barlow. I’m hoping it’s the kind of bike I can hang onto for a very long time even though I love doing build projects. It’s got a SRAM AXS mullet drivetrain and those are the parts I’m not sure could last a lifetime. I’ve toyed with the idea of getting a mechanical drivetrain but I’ll just run what I got till they die out.
My Lake MX241 and CX241 shoes. I never knew cycling shoes could be so comfortable. The MX241 (SPD) I’ve had for about five years or so and with a good cleaning they look pretty good still. The carbon sole is in great condition, considering Howes many hike a bike situation I’ve been in and I use custom orthotics so the interiors aren’t really an issue. The CX241 are the road versions and the only reason I see myself replacing them is purely for vanity if a really awesome looking pair of shoes come around that are also comfortable.
I’ve had a Herman Miller Aeron office chair that I’ve sat in nearly every day since 2001. It was a big purchase back then but it’s been serviced a few times and still is comfortable as day one.
I have a 2012 MacBook Pro, the first year they introduced SSDs, and it’s still going strong as long as it gets plugged in. Obviously I have other computers but the old one was serving my kids well for the past few years. With most apps being cloud based I imagine this computer could keep going another few years without a hiccup. Hopefully that means my M1 Macs can last as long.
I’ve got a pair of Red Wing boots and a custom pair of boots I got in Japan, both with Goodyear welts that I’ve had for about 20 and 15 years, respectively. Don’t wear them as much these days but dammit if I’ll ever get rid of them.
Lastly, I bought a GoRuck GR1 backpack sometime around 2013 and have used it as my daily camera bag since day one. It carries about 28lbs of gear on average. It’s traveled the world with me. Been in sandstorms, rainstorms, blizzards, jungles, and thrown in the back of countless vans, trucks, and jeeps. The bag still looks and functions like it’s less than a year old (there’s some minor fading and the fabric isn’t as restrictive as it once was). I love it and the tactical look isn’t even my vibe.
Giant TCX Advanced SL 2011 CX bike, just changed the crank and wheels this year. It is super rigid, super light. After being used as a road bike for a long time, it will be my gravel bike this point onwards
Giant Trance Advanced SL 0 2013 mtb, used very harsh, fell from bridge into river and tons of other incidents. This year after getting rid of the 100 mm original stem, bar, dropper post it is still a beast
I see some people mentioning The Shimano SPD pedals, and toting the M520 as indestructible.
I see you and raise with the M540 pedals. A fine mix between the M770(XT) and the 520, having the nice steel axle from the higher models which can be serviced without the special tool that the 520 requires.
I have bought replacements for the 540’s several times but they still do the job, and the replacements see use on other bikes.
I wouldn’t class anything electronic as ‘For Life’. Touch wood most of my electronics (except garmins) last 2-3 times as long (sometimes more) than other folks but I would still class them as a consumer product that will need to be replaced someday. I hope I am wrong to classify power meters like that. I bought my Favero Be Pro S in early 2017 (5 and 3/4 years ago) and its still go well (better than me) and whilst I like the newer Assimoa Dual, I can’t justify to myself replacing the Be Pro S
Thanks for the thoughts - I confess I am probably coming at this argument with a degree of ignorance… My only experience of 1x was a holiday hire bike (1x10?), I should probably try to get a test ride with a modern 1x12 system. The gear chart is very useful, I guess my concern would be that middle range where you get closer ratios with the 11-36 cassette - my local terrain is very much rolling, lots of draggy uphills.
With regards carbon, I guess I worry about longevity, I do more MTB riding in the winter when the local off-road can end up as a mud bath. My current alloy scale frame has the paint worn through on the inside of the chainstays where the mud-covered rear tyre has dragged small stones / debris etc through.
I have three SRMs which see regular use and which are working great and all more than ten years old. Have pals with old power tap hubs which are going along fine with bearing changes and some of those are well over 15 years old.
I have a game going with my daily driver bike to see how long I can keep it going (*). The frame is a 2004 Calfee, the group set is circa 2010 Shimano DI2 7970 and the PM is one of the SRMs built on a D/A 7800 crank. I have spare parts for the DI2 kit, make my own battery packs, and the frame should last forever. Heck, the headset is a 2004 Chris King unit and its fine too.
Kit can last a long time if cared for.
(*) The big issue with keeping this bike going as a daily driver is gearing. I’m getting older and have moved to a hilly location. It could be a case of the rider wearing out before the bike !!!
I sure hope so! I’ve only had my Favero Be Pro S 5 and 3/4 years but it seems to have lasted a lot longer for me than other folks Be Pros of the time. Perhaps most people’s Be Pros never actually stopped working and they just desired an upgrade but for me I can’t really justify upgrading anything before the old one is worn out. The one exception to that has been my Ti frames
My supersix evo frameset, might upgrade the wheels but otherwise, it sparks joy
If possible, my weber kettle
Now that i’ve upgraded to direct drive, hopefully my bike trainer
My socket set
My monitor arms for my work from home setup (ill upgrade monitors sure but those will remain the same)
My roka prescription sunglasses
Foam roller
Kettlebells
Quality at LL Bean has declined considerably from where it was 15-20yrs ago. My dad still has a pair of LL Bean boots that are probably 25yrs old and in good shape (along with one of the original Baxter parkas). My LL Bean boots are ~5yrs old and, sadly, very low quality. In hindsight I should have returned them immediately upon receipt given the uneven stitching and low quality. But, I do like the “chain-pattern” tread and these boots are only used (now) for shoveling snow/ice from the sidewalks and driveway a few times. LL Bean has become a marketing name for cheap no-name gear, IMHO.
Are you SPD-SL users servicing your bearings? I haven’t had great longevity with my 6800 pedals. Mine have done a few years and have noticeable play. I couldn’t find much detail on how to fix it, but feel it should be a simple enough DIY job if only there were some instructions out there…
My SPD SL bearings have never worn out butIve worn out the inside of the nose on 3 resin pedal bodies and 1 aluminium body and I am not a particularly strong rider.
Tools… Abbey and Silca. Sure they’re more expensive but I’ve never replaced a single item from either company
Weber grill. I have a 15 year old hand me down from my folks. New flavorizer bars and regulator every few years but it’s just chuggin along
Spd pedals. No explanation needed!
Kuat rack. My current one was bought used, it’s probably 10 years old. Still looks and works as new. Sadly doesn’t fit well on my wife’s car and likely to be replaced with a 1up, that I’m sure will last equally as long.
10-speed 1x is IMHO not good enough, 1x11 is borderline and 1x12 is good for a general audience.
The jumps between a 11–36 and a 10–50 cassette aren’t really that different apart from 17-, 19- and 21-teeth cogs. These are used (in my experience at least) at moderately high speeds (15–22 km/h) over undulating terrain. Having small gaps isn’t really important, because of said undulations.
The only difference I feel is going from 12- to 10-teeth cogs vs. 13- to 11-teeth cogs. But apart from that, I don’t really feel much of a difference. SRAM’s cassettes have a more predictable “cadence” of gear jumps (17 %-13 %-14 %), which is quite nice once you get into the groove.
Do you know about frame protectors? Some bikes come with plastic frame protectors on the down tube and BB area. But you can buy some that fit most bikes.
Even on a bike with an alloy frame it is not a good idea to allow dirt, grime and stones to wear away at your frame.
Seriously, carbon frames on a mountain bike are just fine.
Yes, buy once and cry once for most tools. Am a big fan of Knipex, Wera and Wiha for hand tools. Bondus hex keys. Have some vintage Craftsman and Klein tools in the chest. Abbey has some nice kit (the cassette tool is money).
There are still well made tools out there, but have to work to find them sometimes.
