Muc-Off is the least dry dry lube I’ve ever used. I threw out most of my bottle and went back to Squirt. Had to really degrease my chain to get back to a “dry” status with the Squirt. Not sure why there was such hype around Muc-Off a year or so ago. Maybe the little black light it comes with sold people on it?
I’ve used wax, Squirt, and now Chain-L No 5. All are great but I’m going with Chain-L for all road/indoor training. When applied correctly, it’s quieter and cleaner than Squirt. I had Squirt fling black particles. Waxing was great but time consuming. Chain-L has been a winner for me.
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Hi There,
on my outdoor bikes, I use molten speed wax.
Indoors, I stopped using wax because it basically is too much of a mess and too maintenance intensive, if you want the chain to be low noise. I went for an oil based lubricant instead - it keeps noise low for the longest time.
JP
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Used Squirt, never using it again. Chain, chainring, and rear mech were all covered in thick black waxy gunk. Sticking to Muc-off C3 Dry Ceramic.
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I really like waxed chains outdoors. Indoors they are fine too but can create some mess as the wax comes off the chain when riding and collects on bike, floor and trainer.
Indoors I’ve had good success with Dumonde Tech Lite. Its super easy and clean to apply. Once your chain starts to get noisy you just apply some more. For indoor training it is very simple.
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I would now strongly recommend chain waxing with MSW. It’s easy once you’re all set up. People make too much of the “mess”, especially when you consider you can handle the chain and drivetrain without getting greasy. That alone makes waxing a great indoor option IMO.
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Squirt would leave black sticky wax balls all over my bike, trainer, the trainer mat, and the floor. Waxing though effective, takes tools, time, and patience. Rock and Roll Gold - best liquid lube ever - never going back!
I find Muc-off Lube so bad that the only place I can use it is on the indoor bike.
Silca NFS lube. 12 drops and you’re set.
Was wondering if you have any more long term deets on the RNR Gold… @MikeMckinney @bbarrera
I recently bought it to replace Muc Off Ceramic C3 dry (the worlds wettest dry lube lol) after doing more research on chain lube watts (haven’t been converted to waxing yet, but do the agitated overnight mineral baths etc.)
Just am not used to how dry the dry lube on the chain feels but runs smooth. How long should it last (indoors vs outdoors dry), the muc off would squeak after 200 ish inside and the pedals wouldn’t turn over easily (with ceramic bottom bracket).
Edit: @nathan re about the black uv light, after one trainer ride at least 70% of that lube is no longer “visible.”
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RNR Gold - get the chain really wet and then wipe it clean with a dry cloth over and over and over and over.
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Hmm well post chain cleaning (I’m referring to when hang dry the chain post deep clean) how would I go about making the chain wet and why?
Should I be applying a crapton of lube, the mucoff was very thick and had a wider “spout” so you could really see it coming out in a glob.
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I apply Rock-N-Roll Gold with the chain on the bike, and get the chain really wet (newspapers on the ground). Then I use one or two dry cloths to wipe it really clean.
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I use R&RG too. I drop on each roller during a slow backpedal from the speed link until I get the whole chain. Then spin for a minute or two, and finally wipe dry as above.
Not super clean or messy, but a bit in between. I probably don’t wipe enough at the end, but it works.
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I buy the 16oz bottle for $24 and reapply lube every 200 miles or so:
- Wash bike and use Simple Green with two scrub brushes to get chain clean
- Put newspapers down and “spray” the chain while backpedaling. Really get the chain wet.
- Wipe chain and cassette dry. Probably wipe the chain at least 3 separate times before riding. You can’t wipe it enough, the lube works its magic inside the links.
Bottle lasts a year at 5000-6000 miles a year outdoor riding.
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http://www.whitelightningco.com/products/lubricants/clean-ride
Liquid wax. Its great and no black chain after a ride or two like with oil based waxes
I can’t really add more than what has already been said, apply it liberally, I use a old tshirt to wipe it off, reapply every couple of weeks. It works great, is clean, and based on the friction tests posted in this thread does well in tests. Its not the the ultimate lube, but its really really good IMHO.
I’ve not tried the Muc Off, but recently used the Squirt Wax Lube and it might be fast, after a mix of outdoor and indoor rides, it found it super messy. It sends little black wax balls on my drive train, trainer, and the floor around the trainer. I am going to stick with fast wet lubes for now.
Mike
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Same here, WD40 on all bikes, indoor and outdoor. It’s excellent even on my motorbike. I clean and degrease with WD40, clean more with gentle all-purpose soap, apply WD40 and wipe.
Real lube, especially motorbike lube, is too sticky and attracts too much dirt for my liking.
RNR Absolute Dry Lube is what I use. Durability (outside) sucks, but cleanliness and quietness are higher on my list. For cleaning, I start with Simple Green, then move on to White Lightening Clean Streak Degreaser. Those three products (and some scrubbing) and It’s like magic: the chain looks like jewelry when done.
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Jast to add, my last ultegra chain went for at least 5k hard km before I decided to replace it, but it is still within the usable range according to the length gauge. WD40 does a great job, but it needs to be applied more often, which doesn’t bother me at all, maybe every 2nd-3rd ride. After a wet day, chain gets it right away to push the water out. Takes minutes to apply, wipe it and good to go, it always looks and performs like new.
I also spray it onto both derailleurs, shifters and rim brakes pivots. Despite a common belief to not to spray it onto bearings, my jockey wheels, on both road bike with ultegra sealed bearings and XT on mtb (guide pulley with ceramic insert) showed no signs of wear or lateral play upon inspection after a whole year, yet the jockey cogs got a little worn, which is normal.
For bearings I use Shimano hub green grease (it is petroleum based I think) or Loctite superlube, latter being plastic/rubber friendly.