Same here on my aluminum rails. FWIW, mine is at the specified “MAX”.
Care to elaborate on this? I’ve never fully understood what or how the pelvis should look or what’s the right type of rotation. Assuming a forward rotated pelvis introduces a bow in the back and a backward rotated pelvis would tuck it in and round/arch the back.
This is a best question answered by the people who gave the advice. I said early but didn’t actually tag, but I hope @Power13 agrees with my above that your pelvis is too far rotated in the most upright recent trainer pic and somewhat in the next. Hopefully they do agree and they and others who reccomend hip rotation can explain how much.
But my take is that you want some hip rotation and it must somewhat scale with the angle your torso is at, so when you need a lower position you rotate more. I would say you want some hip rotation and then bend the rest with your waist with a hip hinge. In the first picture you are rotation so far that you extend your lower back in an unnatural position. Think how far you can bend foward vs bend back, it is not any way how the human body is mean to function. You actually want a straight back or a slightly bend foward.
So you would have 3 options, 1- more reach to make you need to lean over more 2- more drop for the same, 3 don’t rotate your hips as much. Remember it was unanimous above that kasper wasn’t rotating his hips (or not a lot), so hip rotation must be dependant on scenario.
(The photo zooms in on upload to click on photo to see the whole thing)
Unfortunately my phone photo editor doesn’t have straight lines so I had to free hand, and art was by far my worst subject. But the lines are all supposed to be straight 
and the below lines are how I’m describing I see your back and pelvis and the above are how I think it should look.
What I said here (and gave a decent explanation why underneath) also is my reccomendation to @4ibanez aswell. I say just give it a try, to me it ends up way more comfortable and the guys who I see on the road doing it end up riding more upright anyway. If you don’t like it change it straight back 
To clarify, the static photo you’re referencing is sub-optimal as I’m not putting any force into the pedals so after spending an hour on the bike today I think this is my new general riding position. Not attempting to go aero, just my new natural position. Which is more aero than where I was.
I’ll have to play with hood position to achieve the most natural wrist angle.
I know this new “fit” will take some getting used to as I’m a little longer now, but I think revisiting some core work is going to help a lot.
All the “straight arms” guys have a high saddle and large saddle to bars drop. That happens when you have long legs and a relatively shorter torso. (I know, because I’m like that, just not as tall overall). From the pics, you are a bit more balanced with regards to size distribution, and your saddle isn’t as high. Though your bike has a very tall headtube, so its a bit hard to comparem
Your position looks vastly better Anthony.
Couple of points. You could angle your saddle a few degrees down, say 3 to 5 degrees. I’ve found this very useful in helping sustain an aero hoods position.
When in the aero hoods position you don’t hold the hoods conventionally. That’s why your wrist angle looks unusual. You simply wrap the top of the hoods with hands. Obviously, this leaves you with no brakes or gear controls in this position. It’s fast though 
That’s how I do it, only when it’s safe etc. Actually, I still use the banned fake TT position sometimes. I have grip tape on the top section of my aero road bars to make it safer. That’s definitely the fastest road bike position.
Illegal though… I live on the edge.
Life would be boring, otherwise.
I keep waiting to see a picture of @Nate_Pearson to see his position…apparently he’s quite tall???
As someone who’s 6’5" and also wishing to be faster, this is an awesome thread!
I’m running the same tires as OP on 50mm deep carbon road wheels. I know this isn’t optimal aerodynamically, but man do those tires make for a comfortable ride. They blow up to about 35mm on my 23mm ID wheels.
What difference in speed would say could be noticed by switching to GP5000 TL’s? I have a set of new 32mm GP5000’s and could keep an eye out for 28mm since that must be more aero. At my height/weight, I’m as aero as a school bus but I’m trying to get a bit of an edge to make the jump from the C group ride (16 mph) to the B (18.5 mph). I know tires alone won’t get me there, but if it’s a significant boost it might be worth a swap.
I did the almost full aero makeover to help on group rides with a bunch of fast youngsters.
I went from non-aero wheels and GP4000s to 50mm wheels and GP4000s and then to GP5000TLs. I definitely felt a decent boost in speed going to 50mm wheels and then another bit of watts with the 5000TLs. The 25mm 5000TLs are narrower than the GP4000s so they are a bit more aero.
If you have decent roads and want to be aero then you need to can the 35mm wide tires. Forget the 28s. Go GP5000 25mm.
I also did the aero road helmet (5-10watts), tight race fit jersey (15 watts), lowered my stem by a spacer. I figure that at full tilt group ride speeds I saved 50-60watts which is around a 20% benefit at my threshold. I never did aero bars or frame - that would be another 15-20 watts.
I don’t worry about the group average of 16 or 18mph. It’s when they are motoring along at 28mph and it’s your turn to take the pull. That’s when you want those free 60 watts. Plus you save those watts over the whole ride and end up fresher and using less energy at all times.
You make some good points but you mention if I have good roads…that’s rarely the case! Any decent route around me will have as much pristine pavement as potholed garbage. The 35mm tires definitely add comfort and some piece of mind on those sections, surely at the cost of some speed.
Really interesting thread. While the reach looks a lot better now, maybe one other consideration if @anthonylane keeps adapting to this new fit and wants to get more reach, might be worth trying an older style drop bar which would be super cheap.
I recently went the other way - from stock 2013 round alloy Trek bar to a compact aero drop bar (also narrower width, from 42->38 chasing aero gainz) - this reduced my reach to the hoods by a couple cm, thus I’ve had to compensate it with a longer stem.
If needing an aero bar, the 3T Aeronova has very long reach, which would get you more stretched out, and the obvious aero advantage over a normal bar. I had one and liked it, but replaced it with a different bar when I broke it. The only downside is it’s a nightmare to route cables and outers through (still mechanical here).
Get yourself an internal cable routing set like below if you haven’t already. Makes life so much easier and shouldn’t be that hard with the magnets and worse case a torch.
@anthonylane the position on the road looks pretty good to me. Looking at it your probably more limited to being used to riding in that fit and your core/mobility. The ‘Foundation training 12minutes’ video on YouTube, that was actually reccomended from this forum, will get you sitting perfect and general core work. Plus just time in the saddle. That’s the main reason why good riders look good, as they have spent so much time riding and slowly mold into a good position (and those that don’t probably end up injured or too sore and don’t progress).
@anthonylane … so now you’ve had a bit of time to digest all the feedback from this thread and have implemented some changes, how have things progressed?
Have you been able to evaluate anything yet to the point you feel confident a genuine ‘benefit’ in speed has been generated?
Super interested to know what has actually worked IRL for you.
TIA 
Thanks, yes, I still have to adapt.
Here’s a video of me on the trainer after installing a new saddle—Specialized Power. I tweaked fore/aft and settled on a position that allows me to ride w/o hands and maintain balance.
I’m still adjusting saddle tilt to what’s most comfortable, but here’s a video of me on the current fit.
Despite going from a 120 to 130mm stem and dropping 20mm in stem spacers, I still feel like I can’t achieve as flat a back as I’d like to. When I try I just close off the hip angle and it doesn’t work. Maybe that’s a result of my level of flexibility or upper body physiology or it’s just due to the bike still being slightly too small. It’s hard to say, what I’d like to do is get on a bigger bike and see how it fits.
That being said, I am definitely more aero than I was on the old setup with the shorter stem and taller stack. It’s yet TBD if it’s any faster, we’ve had some windy days this week and I haven’t been able to get an apples-to-apples comparison on my test loop.
No. I’ve done plenty of gravel racing on this bike and have never had that be and issue. The bars are just wide enough so that my elbows sit outside of my knees.
You can also test different gear and positions yourself if you find a circular track and ride at constant power, here’re the results of an experiment I did which showed how much I reduced CdA using a skin suit and comparing different positions - aero hoods where you lean down and keep your forearms horizontal was the best and the skin suit saved me around 30 watts at 40 km/h.
What crank length do you use?
Starting to get in to more expensive adjustments, but a shorter crank length will let you keep your hip angle more open while still getting your back flatter.